I’m really happy.
I have no idea how many lumens an XM-L2 is capable of obtaining.
Relic. Did you do any resister modding of the stock driver for you MT-G2 mod? I have about six of them and would like to know if they can be improved.
Now we're talking! Glad you got it working! 5A is a pretty sweet spot for those emitters on Noctigons.
Orsm Ouchyfoot. I wonder if it was the Fujik or some other issue. 5 amps is in the sweet spot and should have no trouble heating the work place in winter. Is it night shot time where you are yet?
Edit. Link to relic38 triple MTG-2 light.
Is that driver or similar driver still available?
Sweet. Love how you don't screw around with your copper. All business. Congrats. Now show us some beam shot porn. We need a fix, bad man.
It’s the same as the LCK 5A driver except it was 4.5A custom for IOS. I guess it goes into direct drive when running three emitters on high, so it shouldn’t matter whether it’s labeled 4.5A or 5A.
With three 26650 the current is holding really steady.
I just tested a fresh blob of Fujik with my DMM and it didn’t register any connectivity, so it must have been something else.
ouchy - what cells? The super shockers are the same setup basically, and 6A can be achieved on hot cells. Worth taking a quick measurement if you got 3 fresh low resistance cells around. With the spring mods and the heavy gauge wires in yours, it maybe can do more. Would be interesting if this light does the same or better than the Shockers. The Shocker has the battery carrier which is probably a good source for voltage drop.
Tom. I’m using three KK ICR26650. The E-Moli’s gave me about the same reading, but they’re too long and the tailcap won’t even meet the threads. I Only have two of the Sonys 26650 so I’m out of luck.
I wanted to ask you about the current drain on the Shocker in DD. I was thinking of throwing a 5A LCK driver in mine, but am not sure if 18650s can hold up with the current drain.
The 26650s are rock solid.
PS: I’m charging up some high drain Sony 18650 to see what they’ll do.
Nice mod! :)
Beamshots of same light modded here vs others.
Picture says 5,5A. But that is slightly conservative.. As mentioned in mod thread, with fresh cells its around 6A peak..
I charged some brand new Sony US18650UTC4 cells and let them rest over night. They only gave me 4.7A. It was their first charge, so maybe they haven’t got their juices flowing.
A fresh charge on the KK ICR26650 give me just over 5.2A
Any recommendations on some good low resistance 26650 cells?
The original SONY 30A 18650's were as good as it gets. I used them in the Shocker for high amps. The TC4's I've not tested, not sure if better than the original, but I got some TC5's on order.The best 26650 is the Powerizer (no longer available), but a very close 2nd is the SONY 50A 26650. After that, dunno - guess the KK ICR's at 4000 or 4200. My hot J18 did best on the SONY 50A's I believe, better than the KK's for sure.
Thanks Tom. I have two of the 50A Sony’s. I guess I should order more. They’re so short that I’ll have to make a spacer.
Ohh - maybe I used magnets in between, can't recall. The KK's you used were unprotected? Thought they were about the same length as the SONY's, could be wrong.
i use kongs and mnke’s.
but i hear kinoko’s imr’s are very good too.
http://illuminationsupply.com/batteries-c-48_50/?page=2&sort=20a
The driver board on the stock light didn’t have a spring. The cell’s anode butted directly against the board. I left it that way until I determined a spring wouldn’t hamper the tailcap being tightened down with KK cells.
I installed a spring with double copper braid and I am now getting a reading of 5.4A.
Tom. When you were getting 6A readings, were those with XM-L or XM-L2 ?
6A is doable with a single cell and XM-L2. I have a C8 at about 6A and an Ultrafire F13@ 5,9A and some other lights running similar emitter currents but with more emitters and cells (same principle though). Ill show this thread again showing HD2010@ 5,9A.
When that is said, it requires a freshly charged cell@ 4,2V like Samsung 20R, green sony and such and all resistanse mods in the book in order to see 6A. Having proper DMM wires is crucial..
You could verify your DMM/DMM wires combo with a bench setup without a driver circuit. Just wires from the battery to an XM-L2 on copper (attached to some heatsinking). You should be able to see 6A if you have something like a Samsung 20R or Green sony 26650 freshly charged to 4,2V...
I’ve got some Sony 26650 50A on the way. I don’t have a bench power supply, but my DMM is good with 13AWG wires and heavy copper clips. I’ll see what the Sony’s can do, but the KK’s hold the current in the sweet area for long time. I think I’ve eliminated as much resistance as possible. Overall, I’m really happy with this with this light.
Next project will be my BTU Shocker.
it’ll be nice to see a comparison shot once your done with the shocker