Awesome, glad I threw a pair of those in my last FT order for my mag build (only shooting for 3-5 amps though). 
Maybe post an ad for the spare OMTEN you get with a Trustfire x6?
Boy, I'd love to get my ordered one in before ordering a 2nd though, just to be sure...
Tom! That driver has your name all over it.
Got mine today - with 4 fresh cells, I measured
lumens: 1,897 @ start, 1,839 @30 secs
So if each LED is getting 1.4A, same as ouchy's, that's about 600 lumens per LED. My FandyFire STL-V2 did about 1,650 lumens @30 secs stock, and now modded does about 2,800 lumens @30 secs on 2 cells (series), and my FandyFire UV-S5 (SRK type) does about 2,200 @30 secs.
The box is real nice it came in, but couple of issues:
- the button was loose, easy fix though to tighten it
- the cheezy SS looking bezel - hate the fake ones. The one they showed in the pics looked to be real SS, and chunkier/much better
- there is an obvious touched up scratch on the black smooth part near the head going from the silver bezel to the cooling fins - looks like they painted it over - ugh...
The handle is a nice SS piece, and there's a small flat battery in the tail - not sure what it's for, maybe it turns a light on when charging? The button looking thing on the tail that says "CREE XML - T6" appears to be translucent, so maybe there's a light in there.
Of course the button position sucks for a lefty... good thing the handle is easily removable.
Edit: Ooops! Did a tailcap reading and it's consistent 4.6A - hhmm. Popped out the driver -- very easy, no hammering needed, and noticed the 7135's are 380's, not 350's, so, it's really 1.52A per LED, and that explains the 4.6A tail reading, interesting surprise.
If you look close at the driver pics from ouchy, it does show a 38B label on the 7135's, here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/23130 in post #18.
Comparing the Yupard to my stock UV-S5, it's night and day in quality - the true SS bezel on the UV-S5 is much heavier, the threads are deeply cut. The threads on the Yupard's bezel and battery compartment are very shallow, in fact I'd be afraid at the slightest drop or hit, the bezel on the Yupard would pop right off. I tried doing some LEGO, but the shallow threads on the Yupard won't match up.
I'm thinking also, the LED alignment pieces in the Yupard is stealing some lumens - high walls around the LED. The UV-S5 has flat, low profile centering alignment pieces - may be an easy fix there on the Yupard. Also, the tailcap easily unscrews on the Yupard, while it appears glued on the UV-S5.
The fairly thick aluminum piece the stars are sitting on is ok, but loosely screwed into the body - I mean lots of play/slop, which is another example of poor thread cuts. It looks like you can adjust the height of the LEDS by screwing the plate further down or up - this may help when upgrading to thicker copper stars, but you would need to put some good quality thermal grease on those threads, at the least. I don't think I can tackle adding extra heat sinking - I would upgrade to Noctigons or SinkPAD's though, use good thermal grease on the threads and leave it at that, along with adding 7135's to crack it up to maybe 2.7A per LED - I'll see.
This is just using the original driver board as a slave. All the components are removed except the 7135s. The left leg on all the 7135s goes to LED-, the right leg is the PWM. Everything's in parallel.
NOTE: unless you get a 105C with custom firmware for the momentary switch, this works only with a mechanical clicky.
I can’t get the tail cap off any of my three Yupards. It doesn’t matter so much on the 3xXML version, but the 5xXML model has a tail switch. I don’t want to start modding that one until I know I can get at the switch.
I’ve started on the extra heat sinking on mine. (Other thread). I’ve got the day off tomorrow, so I hope to get it finished.
That's weird - mine came off very easy.
comfy - is that setup with a single Nanjg applicable to a 3 LED parallel setup? How would you wire up the LED's? Do you just split 3 wires out from each + and - connection?
Sure. There's different ways to run the wires, like one + and - off the driver to one LED, then jumpers to the next, and the next. But that gives you the wires off the driver carrying the full current, and the wires to the second carrying 2/3rds, and the last carrying 1/3rd. When you have the space it's best to keep them all the same, like so:
Very very nice. I love the soldering and execution of it.
Well I added 6 7135 380's nice in the empty slots, hand soldered but came out well - did all the checks. Replaced the LED centering peices with a flat, low profile one that fit, and figured I'd take measurements at this point with the stock LED's - bad news -- the LED's light up full power without the switch, so the switch does nothing...
Thinking I grounded out a LED wire because the replacement LED alignment pieces didn't shield the reflector from the wires as well - thought it would fit ok, but I'm guessing it didn't, and fried the driver, probably the micro. Well... Guess I'm gonna have to pursue the Dr Jones driver route, using maybe 2 sections of the 7135's as a 7135 farm (12 for additional 4.5A) to the Nanjg that I'll mount piggyback, like comfy's pic earlier. Probably go for around 8A total for the 3 LED's.
May have to shelf this light for a while - more complicated now.
Tom. I don’t think you can fry this driver. In my learning with my first ones, I did every bad thing you could do. I soldered pos to ground, had a battery short so bad the outer ground ring was smoking hot. This driver is hard to kill.
I did me driver tests with the electronic switch hooked up and it worked fine. I haven’t tried with it unconnected. I don’t think the switch controls the power to the driver, just the modes. That’s why electronic switches have parasitic drain without physical lockout.
I think something got bridged somewhere, or something got unabridged. Do you have a photo of the driver. Did you unhook the charge port? Did it have two wires or three. I’ve seen both setups on this driver.
Like I said. I don’t think the driver is dead. If I can’t kill it, nobody can.
Interesting - I dont have a pic - I'm at work, and I do know all about electronic switch's - I traced it to what pin on the MCU it's connected to just for the heck of it, but dunno what MCU it is - unlabeled. I left everything connected (switch and charge port) - all I did was solder on 7135's to the empty pads (2 per LED section, 6 total - should be 6.84A total now). I did continuity checks to be sure everything was connected up - no cross's, no breaks all pins connections were good. I can only suspect it was a grounding from a LED wire connection to the reflector. I tested the head after removing the reflector and still get the same results - it lights up as soon as I connect the battery neg. end to the ground ring on the driver, keeping the + end of the cell on the inner circle. I'm using a SONY 26650 to be sure I can draw enough amps. When it lights up, the amps is about 6.2A at best but it's jumping around, so seems to indicate something is flaky there. Previously with the same setup before the mods, it was a solid 4.6A reading, but I had to click the switch to turn it on -- now it comes on right away, switch does nothing, almost as if the MCU is bypassed or not running.
Steven Seagal must have made it. Mo¤#¤ F%¤ wont die..
Re-tested this morning, and it's all working fine now! Hhhmmmmm.... Thinking maybe something grounded out - the charger connector is really close to the board.
So with 2.28A per LED now and with 4 fresh cells, I measured with a 6.2A tail reading:
lumens: 2,550 @ start, 2,448 @30 secs
I also sanded down the centering plastic pieces, so that might have helped as well. So plan is to add 2 more 380's per LED, so it would have 3.04A per LED, use copper stars (not sure whether to keep the same emitters), maybe use XM-L2 U2's, use AS5 under the stars, upgrade the LED wiring to 24 gauge or so, and copper braid the tailcap springs. Thinking it should do around 3,200 lumens. The pill top plate is less than ideal and I'm hoping the bezel threads hold up (had trouble with them - poor, shallow threads that will easily strip) - don't want to be taking this apart and re-assembling very often.
I’m glad to hear everything is working. I knew the driver was OK. If they’re in your way, you can just remove the two wires from the charge port.
I’ve got the heat sinking on my pill all beefed up and plan to go for over 4A per LED. I’ll probabally keep the stock emitters. I’ve got too many multi LED lights on the go to replace everything. If they were just XMLs I would replace them, but XM-L2 should be good enough whatever the bin.
Yes, been following that thread - looks awesome! I don't have the materials/tools/know-how for that type of heat-sink work yet.
Last night DayLighter was over, and brought some of his toys, including a resistor modded SupFire M6 - didn't look at it in great detail (tearing it apart) but the quality of the host is really nice. I know this Yupard can be made into a high lumens 3 LED beast, but makes you wonder if it's worth throwing a lot of money into a so-so host. Part of me says - yes, that's what's cool about modding - budget light out does name brand lights at 5 times the cost, but from the other point of view, all this money and time into a so-so quality light... It's a source of conflict in my pursuit of better modding...
I know what you mean. When it comes down to it, I don’t need any of these lights. Is all the work worth it? That depends on your mindset. It keeps me busy and out of trouble. The best gratification comes when you hit the switch, and it actually works.
As far as 4 x 18650 soupcan lights go, my favorite host is the NAGE. It’s budget friendly, and built like a tank. The pill is integral, with really thick walls and emitter base.
I ordered eight omtens from from FT. They sent me eight KAN-28s which is the stock switch that blew. The SKU 1135000 on FT shows omten, and the baggies have a matching SKU, but they’re KAN-28.
FT is really pissing me off. Now I’ll have to order from Hank and wait another month.