Got mine today - with 4 fresh cells, I measured
lumens: 1,897 @ start, 1,839 @30 secs
So if each LED is getting 1.4A, same as ouchy's, that's about 600 lumens per LED. My FandyFire STL-V2 did about 1,650 lumens @30 secs stock, and now modded does about 2,800 lumens @30 secs on 2 cells (series), and my FandyFire UV-S5 (SRK type) does about 2,200 @30 secs.
The box is real nice it came in, but couple of issues:
- the button was loose, easy fix though to tighten it
- the cheezy SS looking bezel - hate the fake ones. The one they showed in the pics looked to be real SS, and chunkier/much better
- there is an obvious touched up scratch on the black smooth part near the head going from the silver bezel to the cooling fins - looks like they painted it over - ugh...
The handle is a nice SS piece, and there's a small flat battery in the tail - not sure what it's for, maybe it turns a light on when charging? The button looking thing on the tail that says "CREE XML - T6" appears to be translucent, so maybe there's a light in there.
Of course the button position sucks for a lefty... good thing the handle is easily removable.
Edit: Ooops! Did a tailcap reading and it's consistent 4.6A - hhmm. Popped out the driver -- very easy, no hammering needed, and noticed the 7135's are 380's, not 350's, so, it's really 1.52A per LED, and that explains the 4.6A tail reading, interesting surprise.
If you look close at the driver pics from ouchy, it does show a 38B label on the 7135's, here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/23130 in post #18.
Comparing the Yupard to my stock UV-S5, it's night and day in quality - the true SS bezel on the UV-S5 is much heavier, the threads are deeply cut. The threads on the Yupard's bezel and battery compartment are very shallow, in fact I'd be afraid at the slightest drop or hit, the bezel on the Yupard would pop right off. I tried doing some LEGO, but the shallow threads on the Yupard won't match up.
I'm thinking also, the LED alignment pieces in the Yupard is stealing some lumens - high walls around the LED. The UV-S5 has flat, low profile centering alignment pieces - may be an easy fix there on the Yupard. Also, the tailcap easily unscrews on the Yupard, while it appears glued on the UV-S5.
The fairly thick aluminum piece the stars are sitting on is ok, but loosely screwed into the body - I mean lots of play/slop, which is another example of poor thread cuts. It looks like you can adjust the height of the LEDS by screwing the plate further down or up - this may help when upgrading to thicker copper stars, but you would need to put some good quality thermal grease on those threads, at the least. I don't think I can tackle adding extra heat sinking - I would upgrade to Noctigons or SinkPAD's though, use good thermal grease on the threads and leave it at that, along with adding 7135's to crack it up to maybe 2.7A per LED - I'll see.