glad to hear some good news.
so the problem mostly on batch #2?
As far as I know, we have no idea how many “batches” have even been made.
I can only assume since I ordered mine a week after this opened it would be from the same “batch” as everyone else’s. BUT, let me stress; I have no earthly idea about this.
Wait, I just remembered and found this……. (post #128 _ Fri, 09/02/2016 - 10:09)
Sooooo, it would indeed appear my two lights are from another batch.
But I have no idea if this is a ‘manufacturing’ or ‘re-stock’ “batch.
When I got my code from ‘freeme’ I was asked/told there wold be a short wait before they were back in stock.
‘freeme’ can speak to this question about “batches” to a much more degree of authority than any of us can, myself included.
All I can speak to with certainty is this:
- Ordered ………………………7 September
- Left warehouse in China…… 9 September
- Received by me…………… 28 September
I can also speak to this. My two work perfectly to this point. They have been tested by me as described in the posts above.
That is in fact a good question about the “batches” !
My HR20 arrived two days ago and works like a charm. No flickering at all.
I´d really like to order a second one (asked for another code already. Got none yet) but please have it from the “none flickering batch”. 
Sorry prepro but HR20 does have flash modes !!
Long press on/off switch will bring you to the flash modes. Another long press changes to next flash mode. Flash mode always starts with strobe. Next is SOS followed by beacon. Short press will switch off the HR20 from any mode. “Volume control” does work on the flash modes as well ! Cannot remember any flashlight that does this.
Hmm. Interested.
The pictures above by ‘coolriku’ are great and show us a lot inside the HR20.
The picture below are not that great (oh well… :person_facepalming: … 
.) but they do show us some of what is underneath the Rotary Switch Cap.
Rotary Switch Cap
Inside Rotary Switch & Board
Rotary Switch, Board, & Cap
Rotary Switch Cap & USB Cord
Your a smart man ‘RobertB’!!! :+1:
After seeing, studying, and thinking about how the Rotary Switch Cap is / is supposed to be attached to the Rotary Switch………. I am thinking it would leak & leak badly. :person_facepalming:
Even though both of my HR20’s work just fine & I am pleased with them, I think they would leak like a sieve around the Rotary Switch Cap.
Even if the USB rubber cap was glued shut, there is no way this thing could be submerged even in a glass of water the way I see it. Much less be submerged 2 Meters.
I would be surprised if they were even very water resistant in the Switch Cap area.
Let me make it clear I am only speaking of the Rotary Switch area.
In addition to my observations, consider the below:
Notice how you wrote the IP code ‘RobertB’………………… IPX8
Notice below how it is written on the HR20 box & UM ……. IPX-8
HR20 Box & UM Specs
“There are no hyphens in a genuine IP code. IPX-8 (for example) is thus a false IP code.” / reference to quote
Anyway, it is what it is. Mine don’t flicker………
Teacher, how did you get the rotary switch cap off? I’m thinking I might be able to loosen/lube the ring.
That, is a great question ‘peteybaby’!! :+1: Now, ya’ get “the rest of the story”…………. 
I can honestly take no credit what so ever, it came off on it’s own… :person_facepalming: . Sad, but true.
I had run the battery down a bit doing all the “testing for flickering” things I had spoke of earlier, so I decided to use the USB charging feature. Plugged it in and though it was slow as expected, it worked just fine. Red lights when charging and green when finished… worked like a charm.
I went to unplug the USB cord from the light and when I did, the Rotary Switch Cap came off with it. :person_facepalming:
I kid you not. It looked just like the picture above of the Cap & USB Cord.
I was somewhat shocked to say the least, I think I even said … “oh shoot”. :innocent:
Anyway, I got to studying it after that and the way the Cap attaches is a tiny bit of some kind of glue at the spot it friction fits around the two screw heads you can see. The light still works just fine with or without the Cap.
From what can be seen right now… there is nothing to tighten, loosen, or lube. I thought about taking the board loose to see what is under it, but have not decided to do that yet. That might put me deeper in than I want to be.
I think I have figured out a better way to hold the Cap on though… better than this one was held on anyway.
price please, thanks
Please PM please, and thanks!
I am not sure what you are trying to suggest. Both hyphen and non-hyphen labeling formats are valid, and they are indeed referring to the same Ingress Protection standard. You could find articles on this topic, being published online since 2009. However, I cannot deny that HR20 construction is most probably not IPX8/ IPX-8 rated based on your findings. I will contact Imalent to see what they are going to say about this, but based on my previous experiences, do not expect them to do much about it.
I advise HR20 owners to keep your headlamp away from heavy rain or submerge them into water.
I am “suggesting” nothing other than what I wrote. I hope that clears that up.
You omitted the “reference” to what I quoted about the ‘hyphen’ in an IP code…. I have re-quoted and shown it. That was the first time I had ever read that and found it enlightening in general…. not just about this matter.
And to be crystal clear, I do not expect Imalent to do anything about this, and never said I did.
I have enough common sense, now that I have seen the construction of this Rotary Switch; to not expose it to much more than a very brief mist of rain.
There may very well be some people who read this, whose Switch Cap does not come off; totally unaware of the probable outcome of exposing this light to any submersion & or unshielded rain.
Hopefully this will call attention to that and save some lights as well as hurt feelings.
As I have posted from the very beginning…… “I Like This Light & Am Pleased With It”…… :+1:
Does that make it perfect??? Nope.
But we were told all that up front and given the choice to proceed or not. I chose to proceed and I am glad I did.
But as we find out more things about this light (good or bad) they should be shared so those that follow behind us can make an informed decision based on all available information at the time.
Thanks Teacher. I did what you did, and pulled my end cap off too. Then I unscrewed the board, pulled the board out just enough to remove the screw that holds down the rotary dial, lifted the dial so I could add some lube under it, screwed the dial back on, screwed the board back on, put some lube on the inside of the dial where it might rub on the outside of the end cap, and put the cap back on. My rotary dial is still sticky. 
So now I have a light with a sticky dial, which also gets lube all over my thumb, and the cap can come off easily.
I’ve retired this light. $27 got me a battery and a decent head strap. I’m not complaining though since we were all warned about this being a beta, and it was cheap. I think the idea behind this light is great, but it needs some mechanical design tweaks.
Oh, about the flickering: as someone else mentioned, it’s not an infinitely adjustable output; there are just many discrete output levels. When you rotate the dial slowly you can see the steps. So I think the flickering some of us are seeing is just the light switching back and forth rapidly between two output levels. Turning the dial slightly in one direction or the other “centers” the output on one output level and the flickering stops. Not sure, but that’s how it seems to me.
That is some good info ‘peteybaby’, you went further than I did.
I was still thinking about lifting the board on mine to see how the dial was attached, but have not done it yet because the dials on both of mine happen to be smooth as can be. But from the way you describe it, I can picture it perfectly… so no need.
Sorry that did not help yours.
My “cap” just came off on it’s own… :person_facepalming: . How did you get your off? Was it hard? (probably not…??..)
Anyway, good post man………. :+1:
Yeah if yours are operating well, don’t touch them! Hopefully the caps will stay on for you.
My cap was wiggly with the usb cable connected, so I wiggled it harder, and simultaneously pulled up on the rubber usb connector cover, and it popped off.
Yeah that is about what I have decided…leave well enough alone. I am gonna put a tiny dot of silicon caulk on the inside of the cap on the silver spacer, where it fits around the two board screws; press it back on and let it dry. That should hold it on better than it came to begin with.
That makes sense, I did not figure it would be very hard to remove on purpose.
Take care my friend……………
I´m also interested in this headlight. 
Therefore, please pm me the coupon and price.
Thank you in advance
AdAm0
Well ‘peteybaby’, I did indeed leave my board in place since my switch was working just fine. BUT, I think I have secured the ‘Cap’ so it will be staying in place without fail.
I was caulking around a shower in the house with some GE 100% Silicon and got to thinking………. :student:
So, looking at the picture below; I got a toothpick and spread a small amount of caulk at the junction where the outside of the silver spacer meets the inside of the ‘Cap’. I put a little extra on the indention’s on the far left and right where the ‘Cap’ goes around the two board securing screws.
I then lined it up correctly and put it back on, turned it upside down on the table and pushed hard to seat it and let it dry. I don’t think it will be coming off anytime soon.
Oh yeah, I put some clear glue over those two little plastic “lens” things the charging LED lights show up through. One of them was falling out and the other was loose. They are both there to stay now.
IF anyone were to try this, it is “imperative” that any sealant you use stay inside the ‘Cap’. Otherwise the escaped sealant will impede or stop the movement of the outside adjustment ring.
Mod on…………………
Oh yeah, if you do this; remove the previous dried glue you see with a small pointy instrument. I used tweezer tips to pop it off.
This headlamp left a bad taste in my mouth. I would have understood if I was the only one with flickering problems, but it seems a more than small percentage are having the same issue. Then I hear the the Switch/USD (they cant spell USB?) side is coming off. That’s another strike against Imalent. I won’t touch anything they make with a 10 foot poll from now on.
Edit: my opinion is in no way a strike against freeme. I’ve done other deals with him I was 100% happy with. As a matter of fact, I just ordered a JetBeam Jet-MK through him.