Those are protected cells and I donāt see anything there stating where the cut-off protection kicks in, you might run into issues with those as this light can pull close to 6A when a freshly charged cell is used and that will go up as the cell drains due to the regulated style Boost driver. They could also be a bit on the long side, regardless I feel like theyād fail due to the protection circuits.
We tend to shy away from cells ending in āFireā, they just have a low track record. Try Liion Wholesalers and get some Basen cells or the 4200 Efest, something like that will do fine.
Not necessarily so, Richard suggested I get the non-protected TrustFire 32650 for my TR-J20 and they actually work very well, outperforming anything Iāve seen and this in a 6000mAh 32650. Thatās the only āfireā cells I have though, having had too much trouble with others in the past.
Efest, LG, Samsung, Sanyo, Panasonic, Sony, Basen, King Kong, Liitikola, there are a good many good cells out there. No reason to take chances with lesser ācheapā cells.
There has been a lot of discussion about Efest re-wrapping cells. Iāve tested many many cells and have never found a cell from any brand name that has performance characteristics matching the multitude of Efest cells I own. I have hundreds of cells, the highest concentration among these is Efest.
just got my utorch
2.5 amps tail
close to 1100 lumens best i can tell
97,600 lux tested numerous times
built like a brick, could knock somebody out with it no problem
so im no modder, but do own a solder gun, lol
what can a dummy like me do to amp this thing up a bit ?
and btw, mine steps from a 150 lux ceiling bounce, to about 108 lux after about 4 minutes or so
is this normal ?
I would be careful modding this driver. If you want it to last, I would do a conservative power boost. See below.
Adding an R100 is all I would consider. The hardest part is getting one. Once you have it, you need a fine tip on your iron. Itās tricky soldering a resistor that is 3mm long and 1.5mm wide, but it can be done. I did it and there are videos of it on youtube.
I donāt own this model, but I do believe the step down is normal. Check out Chrisās video review here.
He may mention it. Keep in mind early versions of this light had higher output and more heat, so it may have stepped down sooner. Iāll let an actual owner tell you about their stepdown times.
Oh, I donāt know of a video specific to this light, but the concept is the same. Do you already know where the sense resistors are on the UT02 driver? If not, I can hunt for a picture for you. [EDIT: Look at post 131 in this thread for the location.]
2:15 to 3:00
General videos
I recommend a tiny drop of super glue to hold the resistor on top or use a hemostat, if you have one, to hold it still. It likes to move around on you. Lol
I like the technique in those general videos. I might need some magnifying goggles to better see the tiny parts, though.
So does the 50% step-down, mean after 90s itās output is limited to 325lm(650lm/2) ?
Is there anyway to lower the bleeder resistor and increase output?
Despite the issues, itās still difficult to find a thrower at $30 that has a built in charger.
I agree 325lm is pretty bad for a XHP35, it has all the right stuff going for it why didnāt they just improve the driver.
Which Convoy C8 are you comparing to, XPL with 8 drivers? Or XPL with a FET?
How then me and Dale got 950 lumens for NW, and 1090 on CW? Not that I am discrediting yor measurements, but we had same Amperage on tail as you do 2,4- 2,5A and 0,7A on led
ā¦.
