i think it depends how much the knife is worth and what you’re using it for. i’ve seen various pictures of close-ups of the cutting edge as sharpened by pull-through sharpeners and they tend to remove a fair amount of material and leave a jagged edge (if you took a macroscopic photo). if the knife is very dull, it will get sharper, but not as sharp as a tool that leaves a clean finish. maybe you don’t need it that sharp though. i like playing around with using a knife for feathering wood to start fires and other basic wood whittling and this requires a pretty sharp knife.
i sharpen my small pocket knives with a lansky croc stick turn-box. i bought a couple of japanese waterstones to sharpen my fixed-blade Moras.
on the mora micro-bevel front, i have a mora classic 2 (came without a micro-bevel), a light my fire /mora fireknife and a mora bushcraft orange (both which came with micro-bevel).
Being in the restaurant business, I tried every knife sharpener out there. The best one is the Work Sharp knife and tool sharpener. Best investment ever for knives.
UHaha! Some items I save a good bit on. I got the Zanflare F1 on sale for $16.00.
But seriously, the Work Sharp sharpener is awesome. The guide holds at the perfect angle and uses different grit belts to give a razor sharp edge. I used it on my old K-Bar combat knife and can do surgery with that sucker it is so sharp. Give it a try and if you don’t like it Amazon will take back and refund.
Sounds interesting. Honestly, I don’t think I got the room for another doodad.
Love the Ka-Bar. I keep my real one nice and safe and secure in its original box and use the cheap copy I got years later for kicking around. Still a full tang and leather disks, probably just cheaper metal.
Probably gonna do the same with my Fairbairn-Sykes. Too nice to “use”. Still a fun plaything, though.
I might like to put a mirror-finish on the FS. It’s sharp, but not shaving-sharp.
I’m almost out of room for doodads myself. The shelves are full now as this pic is kinda old. I’m starting to look like a hoarder, but the stuff is all new useful stuff I got from doing product reviews for Amazon sellers. Most of it was very cheap or free. They would give me a promo code to get the item, and I would check to see if I could change the item count in cart to get more than one item so I could have one to test and review and others to keep, gift, or put up on eBay. I got so much stuff to put up on eBay, I need to get busy.
My latest knife isn’t much budget but it’s a badass of a knife. It came in the Never Enough Tactical monthly subscription box. The K-Bar potbelly. Very nice knife with sheath and mini knife included.
I just ordered another Spyderco PITS Clone, A white one this time to go with my black handled version, The only problem with the clone is the handle is just steel not titanium, So the clone is a bit heavier.
Thanks for the videos. It is very interesting and surprising! I wish more people were testing the steel of the knifes they bought, and not taking for granted just because it is a lot more expensive and US/Europe made.
Heat treatment is VERY important also, for example Lionsteel is using 440C steel but the edge retention is similar to VG10 according to Cedric & Ada Gear and Outdoors youtube video.
My SRM 910+ holds a fine edge nearly as long as my Spyderco Caly3, Sandvik 12C27 vs ZDP189 or $12 vs $190.
Still I wish there was a removable thumb stud on the SRM cos I’d really love to have a fine grind on the main bevel, it’s a tad too thick behind the cutting edge.
For an outdoor knife that’s good so I’d just wish for a scaled down version, let’s call them 710+/7103/7104
In the smaller knives category, I would recommend the Sanrenmu’s 7010 and 7063, IMO, 2 of their nicest models. The Harnds Knight is pretty nice too.
If a slightly bigger knife is acceptable, the Sanrenmu 910, 9103, 9104 are unbeatable for the price (they are often on sale at Gearbest for below $15, like right now the 9104 and the Green 910).