This light was provided by BangGood for review.
The next iteration of the Tool is just as great as the first, in my opinion. The Lumintop Tool AAA is known for being a great bang for your buck. You got a quality light at a decent price, and its available with different LED choices and body material choices. The Tool AA looks to be another winner. The same great light made bigger and better. I prefer AA lights for EDC. They provide a great amount of light in a package that I consider the right size for EDC. It comes in a nice little plastic case with the light, diffuser, lanyard, clicky tail cap(installed), pocket clip (installed and a flat twist style tail cap that contains a magnet. With the flat cap, you turn the light into a twist operation light but you gain the ability to mount it places with the magnet when needed.
A simple high, medium, low UI is all you get here with a reverse clicky switch. It always comes on in low and while on a light press progresses the mode. My example was a nice cool white color (which I prefer) with an even beam pattern that didn’t contain any artifacts or noticeable/distracting rings. On a standard Eneloop it lived up to Lumintop’s runtime claims. I’m not normally a fan of press/snap on pocket clips unless they are done well, and this one is. After pushing it over the body it holds secure and doesn’t slide around on you. The clip itself is sturdy and stays where you clip it.
At around $22 it is tough to beat this light. If you are looking for a simple, quality light that will perform well and won’t break the bank then this is the light for you. It offers a lot of options for not a lot of money and especially if you don’t want, need or can live without strobe/sos, mode memory or electronic
Nice job.
Nice review, thanks!
Do you have any other AA flashlights for size comparison?
https://www.instagram.com/lumenzilla/
Very good light. Can you confirm if it has pwm?
Nizamani
The spring on the magnetic tailcap looks a little jinky, and why two different colors on the tailcap springs? I like the looks of the knurling a lot
lanyard?
… not that I’d ever use the lanyard or magnetic tailcap anyway.
The spring on the magnetic tailcap looks a little jinky, and why two different colors on the tailcap springs? I like the looks of the knurling a lot ….. purple lanyard?
… not that I’d ever use the lanyard or magnetic tailcap anyway.
Nice review! I haven’t used mine a lot yet, but I like it (despite the things that could be improved of course)!
But its nice too see the distance it reaches
For these shots, were you using Li-Ion cells, Ni-MH or alkalines?
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
This pictures were taken with a standard Eneloop Ni-MH cell.
The springs in both tail caps are pretty sturdy.
The magnetic cap has a provision for a lanyard similar to the clicky cap.
The lanyard is indeed purple and not the nicest thing in the world but definitely not the worst one I’ve seen.
Vs. Sunwayman V11r
Vs. Tool AAA
Vs. Tool AAA Ti
Vs. Olight S1
gif pictures site
Thanks A-MAC!
https://www.instagram.com/lumenzilla/
Thanks A-MAC! If with Ni-MH it goes that further, with Li-Ion it will probably go even further in illumination
And that lanyard…it really makes a colour contrast with the flashlight
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
https://goo.gl/3uX9ZF
Get it for $17.50 with code: 27f826
Mine just arrived today, along with a Utorch UT01 and Klarus Mi7. Purchased the UT01 for myself, and the Lumintop and Klarus as gifts. My reasoning was that I liked the neutral white option on the UT01, but the combination of an e-switch (making parasitic drain a concern) and inability to use protected 14500s made it a poor gift choice. So I got the Lumintop and Klarus for Christmas gifts, as they both support protected batteries, making them a little safer for people inexperienced with Li-Ion batteries.
Anyway, here are some quick comparisons:
Thanks A-MAC for the code. I can confirm it’s still active. Now I’m giving five away, and getting one for me, only a couple dollars more!
Personally, I’m a really big fan of the Tool-AAA’s reversible pocket clip that allows me to put the light on the brim of my hat for an instant headlamp. The Tool AA, being heavier, may require a more sturdy hat-brim. I’ll find out pretty soon.
Just to confirm, Are the recommended batteries 14500 protected button-top ONLY? Or will un-protected flat-top work as well?
Correction! Six with a coupon code is the exact same price as five without a coupon.
It’s a buy-5-get-one-free code!
I assume the answer is YES the AA Tool has PWM like the AA Maratac.
(I hope someone qualified to do the test, proves my assumption mistooken)
disclaimer, I have not yet seen anyone report having tested an AA Tool for PWM
(many people don’t care, or don’t know how, in fact some people don’t even know what it is)
Post #145 in this thread seems to confirm PWM in the Tool AA.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/56093?page=4
Thanks!
Yes PWM On the toolAA:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1197880#comment-1197880
Despite being confirmed, already:
LOW > MID > HIGH
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
Nice review, and thanks for the code!
We can easily forgive a child who is afraid of the dark; the real tragedy of life is when men are afraid of the light --- Plato
thanks! very nice work capturing the PWM.. I have added the Tool AA to the
List of Lights with PWM (and Constant Current lights with PWM like pulses, such as Zebralight)
MascaratumB, how is the PWM comparred to the Sofirn SF12 and SF10? I find the SF12 to be very slow and very bad (even audible). Lumintop doesn’t seem bad as I have never read anything really bad about it, but I’d like to know if they are close or the Lumintop is far better
In my Tree
My collection: Emisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)
Hum, can’t compare them until Monday as I don’t have the SF10 with me!
I can tell you that the LT Tool AA can be heard (at least with Sanyo 14500) on Low and Medium, if you put the hear reaaaally close to the head of the light! But can’t make the comparison bewteen those now, I’m sorry
In a while I will post some comparisons with the Tool AA and the SF14 on the threadhttp://budgetlightforum.com/node/56992.PWM, night shots, distances…EDIT : Posted http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1211718#comment-1211718 .
SF14, despite having PWM, is not audible. LT Tool AA, it is! SF10, as far as I remember, it is too, and PWM is slower, you’re right Persechini!
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
Yesterday and today I’m noticing my Tool AA is flickering on Low mode (other modes have no flicker)! It is not the “lines” of PWM, but real flickering of the light!
This is happening in 1 of my 14500 cells. I put another used 14500 battery and the effect disappeared, and also on a AA alkaline there was not flicker at all!
I don’t know (and can’t confirm today) if it is due to drop in battery voltage (the battery is unprotected and the Tool AA has no LVP).
I wonder if on a protected 14500 this would happen, or if it can have something to do with LVP.
And I wonder if there is anyone else with this kind of issue, under the same circumstances!
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
I was asking a similar question a few posts ago.
It’s starting to look like Tool-AA should be used only with protected 14500. (or eneloop AA, or alkaline AA)
A-MAC, I hope you don’t mind if I post here some things on the Lumintop Tool AA
So, after my post yesterday, I made some experiences with the Tool AA!
As I mentioned, with a 14500 cell (Sanyo, unprotected), it was flickering on Low (not PWM, really flickering), but not on Medium nor on High. Also, those modes were not lower in brightness than usual.
By suggestion of jon_slider, today I measured the battery Voltage level and for my surprise I found that it is on 3.91V
So, this is not a drained or depleted battery.
I also used it with other 2 Li-Ion (unprotected) batteries, one with 3.80V and another with 4.06V. It didn’t flicker with none of those 2 batteries. Also, it didn’t flicker with an AA alkaline nor with an AA Ni-MH battery I used.
I tried all the 5 batteries with the tail switch and with the magnetic tailcap, and it only flickered on that specific battery (so far). So, I’m getting a bit intrigued and don’t know what to think
Can it be something related to the battery and not with the flashlight itself?
Or can it be something related to the specific Voltage level (3.9V) that makes that flickering?
@ delusional: with this kind of situation, I’m not even sure anymore if being protected and unprotected has importance on these situations. Maybe it has on draining and protection, but flickerings and other behaviours…I ain’t sure…
In any case, I will use another battery on it to see how it performs (if it flickers again) and also because that flickering annoys me a bit.
Another thing I noticed was that using the magnetic tailcap (instead of the tail switch) increased the audible noise on Low and Medium modes (due to PWM), on 14500 and Ni-MH cells. On AA Alkaline, the noise is lower than on the other cells!
Just wanted to share what I’m having here and try to see how the ones from other members are performing!
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
No sir, not at all. More information is great. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks A-MAC
BTW, answering Persechini:
Here are some pictures from the Sofirn SF10 (Medium) > Lumintop Tool AA (Medium) > Sofirn SF14 (Medium).
Just to remember: Sofirn SF10 = PWM on ML, L, M modes; Tool AA = PWM on L and M; Sofirn SF14 = no PWM
Hope this answers your question
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
Thanks, it doesn’t look as bad as the SF10 driver
In my Tree
My collection: Emisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)
I want to do a driver swap on mine, I was hoping to find a FET 15mm for a good price but MTN charges 13$ even for a 2g part
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
Whaaaa? 13$ ? Oh boy, I wanted to order some drivers and other things, but if the shipping prices rise according to the weight of the package…I may not be able to afford that!
I wanted to try one of their drivers on the Sofirn SF10 host, maybe with Crescendo firmware installed. Gotta see those prices, though…
Meanwhile, I took a photo of the Tool AA emitter and it was the firs time I saw this:
Can somebody please explain me what is/may be this on the plate and what does it serve for?
Thanks in advance
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
Thermistor?
A thermistor is a type of resistor whose resistance is dependent on temperature
Sorry for my bad English (gogole transtorla)
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