You would need to swap to a mcpcb with 5050 pads. Mtn Elec had a few pads left the last time I checked. You could also go with 3 x xhp50 and 2 x 18350 Aspire cells and get 10k lumen! According to DB Custom.
I would describe the hot spot as VERY strong and very white. There is a noticable yellow corona you see best in pic #2 and the spill returns to a whitish color as you get further away from the yellow ring (white > yellow > white). It’s quite floody overall but the hot spot is very bright white.
Moon:
Turbo (ISO200, WB @ 4700K)
Regulated, couple feet away:
~1ft:
Bonus E2L Nichia 4000k 90CRI with same Camera settings:
However, it doesn’t look nearly this rosy to me in person so I’m not sure how this helps? Am I supposed to keep the camera settings consistent for comparisons?
Personally, if I’m trying to show someone what the colors look like, I will adjust the images tint, etc… to make the picture resemble what I’m seeing with my own eyes. Why, because cameras can be funky! Lol
How about you use a grey card, a neutral color cardboard or a plain white paper to set the WB setting manually? This is how it’s normally done when one is trying to capture an image with a good WB setting. I think this approach will work with flashlights, too. The thing is, the WB setting of your camera must be correct when you capture the color temperature of the light coming from your flashlight.
Now, considering the posted images by contactcr, I’m still undecided if I should reflow my own XP-L2s with 5000K CCT for the C8F. I think the corona of the XP-L2 becomes more pronounced with this host. I have XP-L2s with 4000K CCT, too. I’m thinking with 4000K, it won’t be as bad? I mean, not that greenish.
I think I’m good with 10-11A. I’m not gunning for 20A or anything close to that. I’m not sure if the light as a whole can take that much punishment. Besides, I will be using NCR18650GA and MJ1 batteries for this anyway. I did upgrade the MOSFET of the stock driver with a better one from Vishay. Even the lone 7135, I replaced. I thought of getting Lexel’s but that would come along the way.
On paper maybe but the way this light goes together it is not easy to use very short and very heavy wires. The mcpcb wires have to be soldered first and you have to leave room to solder and close driver. What you say is more practical for TIR or pill type light where you can trim everything right up to fit.
18ga wires will fit in the C8F, it’s just not easy. I gave the C8F I put XP-L2’s in away. Don’t recall it’s numbers and can’t find any record in my notes. Gave it away literally right after building it. Will ask and see what it’s doing. (he has a lightbox)
Edit: He says he got 3800 OTF with the XP-L2’s in the C8F, but he uses older Samsung 20R cells. I seem to recall I got like 4200 with a top cell, I just can’t find my notes on it. (probably scribbled on the side of something else)
I recall your post on that light, I think you mentioned adding thicker wire and modding the tail spring for over 4K— got me excited enough to order a pair. I got them today- they look really nice!
You ALSO chimed in on my tail switch mod I’m planning with Lexels’s FET tail board. Sadly I NOW know my old C8 tail caps don’t fit this C8F with square threads. So wondering… do you think I could use the Convoy tail (assuming I can find two of them somewhere close by), or should I just order them from Sofirn?
Hi!
I ordered some tailcaps from Sofirn. I want to build some remote switch tailcaps with Lexel’s button cell fet board. I think it is not listed. You have to ask for it!
Hey Dale, hope you’re feeling better. I took a break from the maglites to build a pair of these beauties and I’ve got to say they’re a joy to put together. The XP-L2 version I built draws 19 amps on turn on with a VCT5 which would reasonably output 4200 lumens. The second host got high CRI Nichia 219c and pulls 17 amps off the same cell and I wouldn’t want to try for more. Not sure I could get more from these as they’ve got 18 gauge wires, good FETs, and 22 gauge spring bypasses.