In my case I figure I will start off with the HD and see what it is like. Then if I decide I would prefer a HI I will simply slice the domes off. Technically this should give a bit better output then a normal HI anyways.
Plus I have never regretted going with an HD yet, the extra lumens they offer seems to balance out the reduced intensity and the end result is only around ~10% less throw in the first lights I did back to back tests with IIRC,
Hope it is okay that I post this really quick TA... Part of it everyone needs to know...
I have 2 MT09R 35 High left both now have the final version of TA's driver. I just completed installing the drivers and they both are smooth as butter and both have output levels between 6500 to 6700 lumen both have stock emitters both are white (Silver, never will I get why they call that white) one has CW emitters and one has NW emitters. I really should have priced them higher than I have but these are left from the fist batch I purchased so I got a much better discount on these. The price you will see on my website. These are the last 35 Highs I will be able to get until Haikelite has completed the new driver and is installing them at the factory so 5 or 6 week at least.
One other quick thing... I have had a few people ask why I raised the price of the 30 MT09R's 70.2's that are on the way now. I raised the price by $20.00 not trying to make a ton of extra money but they would only let me order 30 units total. Even though I get wholesale pricing with it being only a 30 unit order I do not get the same volume discount that I did when I first opened and had ordered 125 units total.
The 30 units on the way actually cost me $21.34 each more than the lights I had in stock previously. If he had let me order 100 or more than I get much better volume discounts and can keep prices a little lower. Dale is gonna get annoyed at me as it is for not running them at retail but he will get over it this time. Anyway, truth is if I go even $5.00 cheaper I am getting very close to not making enough to cover shipping to me then shipping back out. They honestly are about as low as I can go. I did make sure to get only NW emitters as the NW seems to be getting much better performance even the stock emitters.
Okay sorry TA I just wanted everyone to know that I am not raising the price by that 20 to be greedy lol...
I donât think it works like that. Itâs the dome that gives it a higher bin. Slice the dome off and it drops to the next lower bin due to the loss of lumens.
Going from a 35 HD to a 70.2 HI is a really big jump. It will never equal the throw.
The 50.2 is the middle step between them. Concerning hot spot sizes, and this is based on my measurements and observations, I think the 35 HD should be about the same size as a 50.2 HI. The 50.2 HD should about the same size as the 70.2 HI. So you basically have 4 different hot spot sizes from the 3 emitters depending on whether they have a dome or not.
Strangely it does seem to work a little like that. KB has done a lot of testing on the xhp35 and that is what he does, uses and HD LED and shaves the dome off and gets higher numbers then a HI LED. This has also been seen with older XM-L2 and XP-L LEDâs as well.
I figure I will give it a try and see what happens.
Hey, AceâŚany chance of showing a photo of what your describing above ? You mention âplusâ LED pads, but I didnât see a polarity marking on the driver. Admitedly, I only glanced briefly at it late last night after a 10 hour drive, so may have missed it. Iâve done lots of soldering, but this will be my first flashlight driver swap - donât want to mess it up, lol.
Thanks!
lol I can tell you from personal experience that you will want to get those positive and negative switch wires right. They do not go to the same pads as the old stock driver. If you happen to get those wrong it will definitely short out the switch at the very least.
I say this because I did it... still... it's very simple to install..
Also be very careful with the retaining ring. I've already asked that those be addressed in the next batch that gets machined. Every thread on their lights are machined very well except those for the retaining ring. Those will cross thread very easily. As long as you take plenty of time and go very slow and easy you should have no problem at all. If you force it even a little it will cross thread.
Also be very careful with the retaining ring. Iâve already asked that those be addressed in the next batch that gets machined. Every thread on their lights are machined very well except those for the retaining ring. Those will cross thread very easily. As long as you take plenty of time and go very slow and easy you should have no problem at all. If you force it even a little it will cross thread.
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just curious here, the threads that the retaining ring screws into will get stripped, so a new retaining ring wonât help? thanks. I had some trouble getting mine out, it was snug. I wonât tighten it putting it back in.
just curious here, the threads that the retaining ring screws into will get stripped, so a new retaining ring wonât help? thanks. I had some trouble getting mine out, it was snug. I wonât tighten it putting it back in.
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Honestly not sure... I have some new retaining rings coming along with these lights because I noticed how easy it is to do.
I can tell you this. The last one that cross threaded on me was the threading in at the base of the head and not the ring. I used a very small round piece of tungsten and just ran it around the inner flat part of the threads and that did stand the cut threads back up. the I used a fine grit sand paper and sanded and jagged edges away and the ring screwed on like I had just cut new threads lol...
I have made them aware of this and it will be addressed. This is also one of the reasons that I try to recommend that even the best of us just let me ship the light (if it is new) to TA. He has opened and closed as many of them if not more than I have now so we know right away just by how it feels if we are going to have a problem...
I figure out the LED orders based on my paypal orders. So it is best to place the order so I do not forget, it gets exceedingly complicated to try to keep track of both the paypal orders and talking to people on here without either forgetting someone or ordering too many. Easier to just stick with paypal.
What difference does it make? If you get my light next week, then you will still need to order a led right⌠i thought it make be easier and save $ on shipping⌠i am not in hurry.
I think you misunderstood. Yes, I do want to order your LED tomorrow. I just wait to order the LEDâs until I have been paid for the work in most cases. I have had a few people change their mind on the tint they want and most importantly this is much easier for me to keep track of.
Basically if you have paid by tomorrow, the LED will be ordered for sure. If not then I will try but no guarantees. I have been getting well over 50 PMâs a day so it is nearly impossible to keep track of them all for something as important as ordering parts but not ordering too many.
Hopeful that is a little clearer?
Also, if you already paid, then great! I will get it for sure. It is proving quite difficult to keep track of the connections between payments and users on BLF. Thats why I ask for so many details in the paypal notes to make sure I donât miss anything. The paypal notes is the âmasterâ order list I use.
Makes sense to keep all orders in one place and makes more sense for that to be paypal since that is a guarantee the customer has settled on their decision. Thatâs how I do business too, once I receive security deposit, the work order goes on my queue. No security deposit, I treat as not a serious customer so wonât waste my time.