Cant find anything.
Thank you TrueRMS.
20% sounds good.
I’m also hoping it comes with a few Amps less draw.
Give it a look in Flashlight Fanatics
Emitter swaps and driver mods.
driver modded to 4x7135&FET+1
Green Secondary and Osram Square 3500k 96 CRI primary
Thanks… Have you tried the V2’s with a 10507 optic? I’m curious to see how they perform.
Since emitter and temperature choices were limited during the initial order I settled for the XP-L in 3D. I was originally leaning towards the LH351D in 4000K, however lately I find my temperature preferences shifting (no pun intended) towards the 4500-5000K range.
My 3D version unfortunately arrived with a fair amount of green tint, so I resorted to using some Lee Minus Green filter; –1/8 between the bezel glass and optic. It effectively reduced the green but it still didn’t feel quite right.
Ordinarily I would live with a change for a while to give it a chance but as there was a chance the FW3A might be used for lighting during my pending travel I wanted to get the FW3A right, so I decided to swap the emitters before leaving tomorrow.
Here are the result photos ‘submitted for your approval.’
Camera exposure settings were the same for all photos, white balance at 5000K. The tints appear a little exaggerated in the photos compared to how they look in person, neither the green nor the magenta are as strong as they appear but otherwise relatively accurate. (Apologies for the out-of-focus shots.)
FW3A OEM XP-L Hi in 3D (below; photo on the right is of can from the photo expanded)
FW3A XP-L Hi in 3D w/ Minus 1/8 Green (below)
FW3A LH351 5000K 90CRI (“DA0GF4RTS”) (below)
FW3A LH351 5000K w/ Minus 1/8 Green (below)
FW3A LH351 5000K w/ Minus 1/8 Green through 10507 Carclo (below)
The addition of the minus green filter to the XP-L alone, went a LONG ways towards improved tint. I probably should have stopped there but hey…
Swapping the emitter to LH351 resulted in a higher CRI light. In the minus-green treated XP-L can photo, green has been effectively removed but everything else is also tinted slightly pink. Whereas in the higher CRI LH351 can photo the green tint is removed without adding pink tint to the other colors (see for example the color difference with the white wording or noodles between those two photos.)
Re-aplying the minus green filter to the LH351 actually tinted towards magenta slightly but I personally liked the results.
The original Carclo 10511 optic supplied with the light provides a very smooth hot-spot to spill transition, the result is pleasant soft illumination.
Changing to a 10507 (narrow, clear/no frost) resulted in a more defined transition, creating an almost spotlight effect, particularly with the LH351D which has a tendency to also spotlight when used with reflectors. Not an objectionable beam just different. For my upcoming travel outdoors where I may not want to inadvertantly shine at others, I actually prefer the defined hotspot. The beauty of the FW3A is the ease with which I can always change back.
Adding my thanks to those of others to the FW3A team for bringing us this light.
Enjoy.
Edited to correct 10511 Optic
When do you see this green? I’m not seeing it in my 3D.
pc_light, I really appreciate your photos and your commentary—thanks for sharing this. I like your final (for now?) configuration.
Same.
It’s pretty hard to see unless you compare it side by side with a light that is much closer or under the BBL (and against a white wall). Also, depending on camera settings, it can show up more or less too.
Honestly, if you don’t notice it, be happy and don’t worry about it. If you want to get picky do it when the stakes are higher (90CRI emitters)
@ pc_light
I like the LH351D. And the minus green filter is looking very nice with this led. But you write the original FW3A comes with a Carclo 10509 opic. If i am not totally wrong then the light comes with a Carclo 10511.
The 10509 is heavy frosted and the optic with maximum flood.
I ordered one to mod the light when it arrives (and some DA0GF4RTS from arrow). FW3A mod thread. Post yours! - #216 by TheOnlyDocc
Interesting led choice! How is the tint of the Square? I used to be put off by the greenish tint of the 3000K 92CRI version.
Ditto on @contractr’s comments. If you don’t have green or it isn’t an issue, :partying_face: be happy.
@TheOnlyDocc, my mistake, I’ve corrected OP to reflect that. Thanks.
Trying out some Talon Grip Tape on my FW3A. Here it is:
Talon Grip Tape provides a very secure grip and is quite thin. Supposedly it can be peeled off without damaging what it’s on, but I’ve never tried. For this mod, I left a gap in the tape coverage for the clip. Unlike with some of the “rubber sleeve” solutions people have posted earlier, this has the advantage that the clip still works fine. It’s also thinner than any of the slip-on rubber sleeves.
I’m undecided whether I like the tape or want to remove it and go back to the smooth tube.
Advantages:
- Once the light is in your hand, grip is much more secure with the tape. I found this to be the case with all grips (bezel up, police-style grip with bezel down, cigar grip between index and middle fingers, etc.
- Makes the light look a bit different.
Disadvantages:
- Tape is slightly thicker than bare aluminum.
- Not sure exactly what a “cigar grip” is, but I assuming its when you reach into your pocket and fish the light out with index and middle finger around the tube and thumb on the button. A smooth tube makes it easier to fish out in this manner as the light is less likely to get caught on other stuff in your pocket, and the fingers will naturally slide up the tube to the correct position where the tailcap widens out. The tape makes it harder for your fingers to slide up the tube to just below the tailcap.
- The tape is good stuff, but it will eventually wear out and need to be replaced.
- The tape is harder to keep clean then bare aluminum.
- Less heat transfer to fingers directly below the tape.
Same here , when I got my D4s in sst20 I saw green at the lower levels ( I sold it & got xplhi 6500) but I see no green in the FW.
[quote=pc_light]
Ditto on @contractr’s comments. If you don’t have green or it isn’t an issue, :partying_face: be happy.
Either I can’t see it or it ain’t there but I am definitely happy. There was a thunder storm last night and the lightening mode along with the sound affects was very cool. Mine looks pure white on a white wall , the way I like it.
I second Dzjozz comment, good to see a rare seen CCT in flashlights but not in commercial lighting. I feel that if there was more built light availability, 3500K could become pretty popular. Supposedly HDS did the Rotary with a 219B sw35k that I wish I could get my hands on. Something like a black FW3A plus some 3500K SST-20 95 CRI might be a good consolation prize for me.
Tritted….
DIY glow gasket with UV glue + GITD powder.
I used a scratched Carclo opit as a mould
Thanks for the idea and showing it - X3 - . Did you use any release agent (grease?) on the optic? Edit: I see a greased optic in your pictures 
I have been wondering in what extend the reflection of TIR’s is broken by stuff touching the cups from the outside. Your GITD disc shows a few patches but not too bad. Can you see that if you light up your FW3A in moon mode, the same patches look black?