Anticipated that and got the 3000K version, still the SST-20 might not fit perfectly ‘High Power Illumination’ :person_facepalming: Doesn’t matter, it’s a perfect match to the golden anodization. Very happy with it.
Edit, slightly OT: I guess it would take a different connector, but beside that, would the flashing kit Hank is working at be able to reflash a BLF Q8 to Andúril?
Thanks for the clarification.
Dale,
I’ve flashed several Emisar lights before recent PC failure using the updated .hex files TK posts without specifying any fuse values.
Got a notification that there’s a batch of flashing boards printing, still working on rounding up some pogo pins.
Will post any useful info I find.
edit - Quick clarification on my expertise level. I’m what a mechanic might call a “parts hanger”. I understand enough to put on new components without destroying anything but you wouldn’t want me to take apart your engine and regrind your camshaft or bore out your cyclinders.
When digging through the process I HAVE used fuse values when flashing in the past but finally discovered that, as far as I can tell, it doesn’t make a difference if you’ve got the updated .hex file and just want to update the firmware.
Here’s a command that I used. (filename was changed for my own organization system)
avrdude.exe -p attiny85 -c usbasp -Uflash:w:D42.hex:a
Note: the above was used to flash a D4 with different hardware and should not be used on the D4V2. Just posted to show the lack of fuse values when flashing TK’s updates.
Not exactly related, but in addition to flashing the D4v2, I’m also interested in flashing vias for the D4S.
(and also the Fireflies E07 / PL47 which seem to also have flashing holes)
Are there flashing keys that are easily compatible with the flashing holes for the D4S / E07 / PL47?
Cool, never realized the MCU already holding similar firmware would carry over correct fuses, always saw it as an overwrite. Gotta get this done this morning, retrieving an 500cc Arctic Cat 4x4 this afternoon…
Providing the software and hardware are ready, the reflashing process is simple.
Make sure the needles to touch the reflashing pads well in the reflashing process (about 10 seconds).
Instructions even a technical writer unterstands. Excellent 
If it includes the USBasp, then all you would need is an SOIC8 clip and possibly some dupont wires to connect the USBasp to the SOIC8 clip.
The BLF Q8 needs the clip to attach to the MCU on the top side of the driver (easy access in this light, just need a screw driver). The software is the same, you’d just need the firmware for a Q8 instead of the D4V2.
Not like I’m a stranger to these things not going correctly, but it can still be frustrating at times.
I meticulously soldered 32 ga leads to each pad on the driver, still installed in the head of my D4V2…
My USB ASP is set up with a Pomona clip and short leads to plug into a flash board for an MMU to enable me to build 10mm drivers. I attached the leads from the driver in the Emisar to the appropriate short MMU leads going by the MMU flash board. When I plug in the USB ASP I get red lights on the device and blue aux lights in the head… but I get a cannot find t1634 warning and no flash.
So I took it apart, found the common wire to the aux lights pinched, though that might be the problem… but nope, same issue, cannot find the t1634 (MCU)
The MCPCB the emitters are on is nice and thick, as is the shelf underneath.
Now I just have to figure out why the AVR Dude flash attempt isn’t picking up the MCU on this driver. I looked in my AVR program and the 1634 is supported. I do notice that the actual MCU in play here is the ATT1634R, probably shouldn’t matter but SOMETHING is keeping my toys from playing nicely together! lol
For those new to the game, I have done this a thousand times and then some, but I also have a horrible memory that is fairly well renowned here…. not having flashed a driver in quite some time for a number of reasons (all bad) it is much like starting from scratch. Frustrating when I know I’ve done this SO many times! But hey, as I’ve said before… if I can do it, ANYBODY can do it! 
One caution about this. The ATtiny85 processor used on the other Emisar lights was replaced by a more capable processor on the D4V2. It would be safest to change the “-p attiny85” to “-p t1634” for any flashing done on a D4V2.
Hmmm… I doubt my ability to even begin to do it. Soldering is not my forte. So I hope Hank’s apparatus is made simple for us simple guys.
Thank you, f0xx! :+1:
The pads on the E07 look like they might be compatible with the same key that works with the D4V2, but I don’t know. I’d be interested in hearing from someone who has tried it.
The holes on the D4S are not intended to be used with a key. Just push the stripped ends of some solid core 24awg or smaller wires into them. I’ve flashed three of them that way.
As a double check, I just flashed a new ATTiny85 with the Anduril for the Emisar D4S, no problem… so I know my USB ASP and Pomona clip work fine.
Which file do I need to install AVRDUDE on Windows? The download area has a gazillion files.
Thanks
ToyKeeper wrote
Paypal is nice for buyers that way. However, please try to resolve things some other way first. Paypal can be pretty harsh to sellers, so filing disputes is kind of a “nuclear option” to use only after trying everything else.
.
.
.
.
.
I messed up the quote somehow
Absolutely agree.
I’ve bought 6 emisars of Hank and plan on buying many more.
I think the specialist nature of the update process balks many non modders and computer illiterates like myself.
if it was as simple as plugging in a usb or a pc/phone update it woudn’t be as daunting.
Your comment this wont brick the thing is relieving.
Like i said i’ll wait till this develops a bit more.
When Hank has the kits for sale i’ll probably get one with my next order
hopefully theres a few tutorials by then.
I’m reading with interest. I’ll need to source out some parts to connect to the FW3A driver. Thanks for the info all!