Instructions even a technical writer unterstands. Excellent 
If it includes the USBasp, then all you would need is an SOIC8 clip and possibly some dupont wires to connect the USBasp to the SOIC8 clip.
The BLF Q8 needs the clip to attach to the MCU on the top side of the driver (easy access in this light, just need a screw driver). The software is the same, you’d just need the firmware for a Q8 instead of the D4V2.
Not like I’m a stranger to these things not going correctly, but it can still be frustrating at times.
I meticulously soldered 32 ga leads to each pad on the driver, still installed in the head of my D4V2…
My USB ASP is set up with a Pomona clip and short leads to plug into a flash board for an MMU to enable me to build 10mm drivers. I attached the leads from the driver in the Emisar to the appropriate short MMU leads going by the MMU flash board. When I plug in the USB ASP I get red lights on the device and blue aux lights in the head… but I get a cannot find t1634 warning and no flash.
So I took it apart, found the common wire to the aux lights pinched, though that might be the problem… but nope, same issue, cannot find the t1634 (MCU)
The MCPCB the emitters are on is nice and thick, as is the shelf underneath.
Now I just have to figure out why the AVR Dude flash attempt isn’t picking up the MCU on this driver. I looked in my AVR program and the 1634 is supported. I do notice that the actual MCU in play here is the ATT1634R, probably shouldn’t matter but SOMETHING is keeping my toys from playing nicely together! lol
For those new to the game, I have done this a thousand times and then some, but I also have a horrible memory that is fairly well renowned here…. not having flashed a driver in quite some time for a number of reasons (all bad) it is much like starting from scratch. Frustrating when I know I’ve done this SO many times! But hey, as I’ve said before… if I can do it, ANYBODY can do it! 
One caution about this. The ATtiny85 processor used on the other Emisar lights was replaced by a more capable processor on the D4V2. It would be safest to change the “-p attiny85” to “-p t1634” for any flashing done on a D4V2.
Hmmm… I doubt my ability to even begin to do it. Soldering is not my forte. So I hope Hank’s apparatus is made simple for us simple guys.
Thank you, f0xx! :+1:
The pads on the E07 look like they might be compatible with the same key that works with the D4V2, but I don’t know. I’d be interested in hearing from someone who has tried it.
The holes on the D4S are not intended to be used with a key. Just push the stripped ends of some solid core 24awg or smaller wires into them. I’ve flashed three of them that way.
As a double check, I just flashed a new ATTiny85 with the Anduril for the Emisar D4S, no problem… so I know my USB ASP and Pomona clip work fine.
Which file do I need to install AVRDUDE on Windows? The download area has a gazillion files.
Thanks
ToyKeeper wrote
Paypal is nice for buyers that way. However, please try to resolve things some other way first. Paypal can be pretty harsh to sellers, so filing disputes is kind of a “nuclear option” to use only after trying everything else.
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I messed up the quote somehow
Absolutely agree.
I’ve bought 6 emisars of Hank and plan on buying many more.
I think the specialist nature of the update process balks many non modders and computer illiterates like myself.
if it was as simple as plugging in a usb or a pc/phone update it woudn’t be as daunting.
Your comment this wont brick the thing is relieving.
Like i said i’ll wait till this develops a bit more.
When Hank has the kits for sale i’ll probably get one with my next order
hopefully theres a few tutorials by then.
I’m reading with interest. I’ll need to source out some parts to connect to the FW3A driver. Thanks for the info all!
Didn’t figure out why I couldn’t flash it, but put it back together with Samsung LH351D W6 5000K emitters. Now I still have to wait to get rid of the Nichia limitation on the driver but have keys, pins and a new USB ASP on the way. Maybe it’ll all resolve by the time those bits get here…. in the meantime I’m charging my cells back up to get a reading on the new emitters… 
You understand you have to return the item for a refund right?
You don’t get to keep both…
I just want a safe functional torch
Mine dont blink or ramp, they turn on in turbo with no stepdown when put in the “safe mode”
If this is an easy and relatively cheap fix, i’m good.
I’ll never even use muggle mode, but it needs to be fixed
Thanks for pointing out the potential point of confusion. I’ve updated the post to clarify this was just an example of flashing without entering fuse values.
Good catch!
They can both work with the HQ ProgKey when it is built with 8 pins. With only 6 pins though, it won’t be compatible with both since the drivers use different pad layouts.
So far, I’ve been using an 8-bin type. It can adapt to every pad layout used so far. I hope this will be how the flashing kits work too, even if two of the pins aren’t strictly necessary. But I can also understand why Hank might decide to stick with a 6-pin version. It’s cheaper and easier to build, it does what it needs to, and other brands are not his concern.
But the details are not yet known for certain.
My second D4v2 came in the mail today and I noticed the aux LEDs not as bright or the 1st one was overly bright,Is that a sign to get a third one with the reflash kit to see if the aux LEDs aren’t a standard brightness. Has anyone noticed the same?
You mean when both light’s auxiliaries are set to high then they are noticeably different brightness? Or you forgot there is a high / low setting for the auxiliaries?