I have been probably the most “talkative” person on this forum for quite some time. I recently walked away from BLF because of all the petty bickering from the new members. Would you guys go grab a beer and work it out please? This is not the place for all the back and forth argument over behavior.
I am waiting to hear about the specific fuse values required before flashing my D4V2, the command given includes no fuses and everything I’ve ever flashed before required this (literally hundreds of drivers) I’ve seen even ToyKeeper brick MCU’s getting all this sorted out, and a lot of other very talented people as well. So, until I can get some verification my light awaits it’s upgrades… (primarily I want the Samsung emitters but I am waiting to proceed so I can get the flashing right in order to help those that would have me do so.)
MARK M please stop this calling out my posts,
Tk I suppose when you quoted my post & changed my name to neg , I presume you’re implying negativity , so I took a leaf out of your book & renamed you torchwrecker,( I should have ignored it but like you I had a childish moment.)well tk a good reviewer as you know isn’t one who only says nice things ,negativity is a part of life , you have to point out the negative things as well as the positive thing ,please don’t take offence if I don’t like your anduril & speakout when it doesn’t work , look on the bright side , I love your ramping firmware ,I can’t fault it , let’s all be grownups & get over it please.
Yes, I have read that too, but as this is the first time I am attempting to flash this particular MCU and all my previous commands from batch files have fuses, how do I know I have the right ones? So I await this news from TK herself. I, uh, sort of have a history here of finding the weakness in a driver. I do not feel like continuing on this path and would like to get it right the first time.
Making the lowest mode lower is technically possible, but tricky. Normally it already runs at the lowest level the hardware can handle in a stable manner, but there are some tricks which can be used to make it go a bit lower. However, this uses more power even though it produces less light, so the runtime is shorter.
The short version of that “trick” is: Turn off the part of the code which under-clocks the MCU at low levels… and maybe also make it use fast PWM instead of phase-correct PWM. It may also require re-calculating the ramp PWM values. Afterward, the brightness will typically be lower, but it will also change significantly from one light to the next, and with battery voltage.
But the driver should ship with these values already set correctly, so it’s not necessary to set the fuse values again. There is basically no benefit from doing so, and it increases the risk of bricking the MCU. So I don’t recommend flashing the fuses unless you got the AVR chip “raw” instead of baked onto a driver which already has the right values.
RampingIOS works fine on the hardware it was written for… but it doesn’t work at all on the most recent hardware. Here’s a quick guide for what is compatible with what:
RampingIOS V2: Original D4, D1, and D1S.
RampingIOS V3: Original D4, D1, D1S, D4S, and D18. May also soon support D4 v2.
Anduril: All Emisar products.
Sorry, the letters are right next to each other.
But more seriously, it’s a fairly specific term for a specific method of mixing insults and back-handed compliments to manipulate people. It’s a pretty common occurrence, including right here in this thread. I wasn’t going to call attention to it beyond a relatively subtle wink to say “lol I see what you did there”, but since you called attention to it more directly, people will probably notice more when it happens. Much like kerning errors, it’s hard not to see it after learning about it.
I noticed that. And I must admit, I thought it was a pretty good joke!
And that’s not meant in a back-handed way… I genuinely thought it was funny enough to laugh out loud.
But it looks like you also went back and edited this out of comment #912:
… which kind of demonstrates a conscious choice to go against the good of the forum. This makes me sad.
In any case, Dale makes a very good point. Arguments of the type seen in the past few days are heavily discouraged on this forum, and only serve to drive away good people.
So I’d like to ask people two things:
Please don’t incite or escalate conflicts.
Please don’t respond to people who incite or escalate conflicts… even if the intention is to try to help or defend others.
The primary issue is #1. Issue #2 typically isn’t nearly as bad. But #2 usually makes #1 worse, so it’s not recommended.
And, on a related note, please don’t argue about who is doing #1 vs #2, because this isn’t a restroom.
Ugh, it was a mistake to give so much support to this community. The negativity that is tolerated around here that doesn’t get called out is too much, and those who don’t speak up deserve to deal with it. You guys have fun, I am out.
Anticipated that and got the 3000K version, still the SST-20 might not fit perfectly ‘High Power Illumination’ :person_facepalming: Doesn’t matter, it’s a perfect match to the golden anodization. Very happy with it.
Edit, slightly OT: I guess it would take a different connector, but beside that, would the flashing kit Hank is working at be able to reflash a BLF Q8 to Andúril?
Dale,
I’ve flashed several Emisar lights before recent PC failure using the updated .hex files TK posts without specifying any fuse values.
Got a notification that there’s a batch of flashing boards printing, still working on rounding up some pogo pins.
Will post any useful info I find.
edit - Quick clarification on my expertise level. I’m what a mechanic might call a “parts hanger”. I understand enough to put on new components without destroying anything but you wouldn’t want me to take apart your engine and regrind your camshaft or bore out your cyclinders.
When digging through the process I HAVE used fuse values when flashing in the past but finally discovered that, as far as I can tell, it doesn’t make a difference if you’ve got the updated .hex file and just want to update the firmware.
Here’s a command that I used. (filename was changed for my own organization system)
Note: the above was used to flash a D4 with different hardware and should not be used on the D4V2. Just posted to show the lack of fuse values when flashing TK’s updates.
Not exactly related, but in addition to flashing the D4v2, I’m also interested in flashing vias for the D4S.
(and also the Fireflies E07 / PL47 which seem to also have flashing holes)
Are there flashing keys that are easily compatible with the flashing holes for the D4S / E07 / PL47?
Cool, never realized the MCU already holding similar firmware would carry over correct fuses, always saw it as an overwrite. Gotta get this done this morning, retrieving an 500cc Arctic Cat 4x4 this afternoon…
Providing the software and hardware are ready, the reflashing process is simple.
Make sure the needles to touch the reflashing pads well in the reflashing process (about 10 seconds).
I do not feel like continuing on this path and would like to get it right the first time.
