I dont’ understand. Are you saying the Virence.com Wiard Pro models don’t have thermal step down or timed step down? Isn’t this Nichia 144A version also the Wizard PRO? I thought the only difference between this new model and the older Wizard Pro model is just the LED. The driver and everything remains the same.
The D240 looks better than the SST-20 at low modes though but high mode is just on the BBL. You should be able to reproduce the D220 4000K tint by mixing the D220 3500K and D220 4500K. Both of these are tested to have negative DUV. Though I don’ have the Virence.com Wizard Pros, I’m extremely happy with the Virence.com Tiara Pros and I prefer the Tiaras because of the more efficient driver. I value driver efficiency and good regulation alot because I use these lights on a daily basis and ceiling bounce them often so the Tiaras are better tools than the Wizard.
Yea I haven’t tested it myself to confirm. I don’t even have the Virence.com Wizard Pro. However that’s what Clemence told me. I think the 3V buck driver in the Tiara C1 is more efficient than the 6V boost driver in the Wizard Pro. Personally, I love how well the Tiara regulates output and with 18650 optional tube, it last a very long time for my use so I think it is pretty efficient. I know the Olight, Nitecore, and Fenix have even more efficient drivers though but their emitter options suck and they usually lack the useful moonlight/fireflies mode.
that may be a con for one who understand all the results of this.
ability to turn light on and on on max brighntess in case of need. and possibility to burn insides )
anyway, surprised Armytech did something good. at least it seems so from review
most of feedback i met about Armytech was that they produce crappy things. and almost zero reviews of flashlights from such large and known brand (here at BLF) also feels like people dont want to mess with armytechs
There seems to be unit to unit variations. Your Wizard 144A at 1345lumens is in between what I measured for the two different units 1388 lumens and 1339 lumens.
Which XHP50 version did you get and when? If you read my post, AT switched the WW version with an 80CRI version which is what I got.
Maukka measured his H600fc MKIV at 1124lumens at 30s whereas I measured mine at 1312 lumens at 30s. Mine was recently bought. I’m not sure if they modified the firmware in my version or used a more efficient emitter. I read ZL have been revising the MKIV firmware since release.
I have neutral white XHP50 and got 1665lm at start.
So small differences, I don’t even care about that. +/- 100lm, whatever. It is only @1s though, and brightness fall down quickly. I’m getting ~ 5% more brightness than you with XHP50 and ~ 5% less with 144A.
They changed WW version to 4000K…maybe they will send me one.
Have had one of these for a couple of weeks. Happy with it overall, inclusive of discount code, but the UI is a bit goofy (& the green indicator flashes are super unnecessary). Also, while the emitter is very nice, it’s hardly what I would call “warm,” just NW.
I got really used to the UI after using it daily and have no problem with it. In fact it is 2nd nature to me now and I like it. However, it is not easy to use for muggles.
The annoying blinking green light can be turned off. It should be in the manual. If not do a search online.
Uch, I hate H03’s UI. I can’t get used to it. Armytek’s UI is so much better for me. And true, for the first time it was a big mess for me. You can check my Armytek XHP50 review, I tried to explain this UI as simple as possible, also correcting some mistakes in the manual.
And yes, it is neutral for me too. Now I have XHP50 Warm too, I will make comparison of those 3 soon
Now with Nichia they should change “White” version to “Cold” and Nichia Warm to Nichia Neutral
Ok, a small update: As Ryzbor mentioned before, this headlamp has a timed stepdown from turbo mode. I checked it and it is a little over 1 minute to step down to 374lm, and no step up to original brightness. It makes the headlamp not the best (as it was before knowing this fact), but on the other hand, temperature stays low, at around 45degC.
Why they made it this way? I have no idea, but I tested my other Wizard, XHP50, and the body temp. rose to 63degC before stepdown. Pretty hot, a battery was at ~ 55degC.
So…my generally advise for everyone is to just use Turbo mode as a turbo, only for momentary use