Anything against energizer rechargeables? Thanks to your suggestions I contacted customer service again, and they are going to exchange my light shipped on their dime. The only catch is I have to get the nichia, which is fine with me. I tried to talk them into just shipping a new light, no luck. lol Thanks again y'all!
Tint is excellent. Output is anemic, though. Less than I was expecting on an Eneloop. This is really more like a close-quarters task light than an EDC, IMHO. I thought maybe it was the emitter, but my copper and titanium versions produce just about the same output. Kind of wishing I’d gotten the titanium in CREE.
aaa lights are just task lights… I edc them to read labels and to see things in a dark closet, but I dont use them to illuminate the sidewalk outdoors… I use 16340 lights for that role.
I only use AAA indoors and at close range. I find the medium mode of 20 lumens sufficient.
I dont use the maximum mode on any of my lights, I rely on Medium, and Low
when I want more lumens, and for outdoors, I step up to my RRT-01 loaded with 16340 or 18350. I still dont use maximum, as I seldom need more than 100 lumens
I have one of the XP-G3 Copper Tools. If you want to trade for one of the Nichia Cu Tools… PM me.
I’m not suggesting an EDC be a 1k thrower. But I have a couple AAA and smaller lights I use, with the Jetbeam Jet-U being the most carried. It’s more than twice as bright as my Lumintop Tool AAA, that seems like 80 lumens. Then there’s the Aurora A8 with proprietary 130mAh battery, Nichia 219C putting out 350 lumens. My Lumintop Geek also puts out 350 lumens from a CREE XP-L HD powered by a small 530mAh battery.
the “Drop” AAA light UI is actually pretty useable.
i hated it at first but really it isn;t bad.
usually [if it has been off more than about 10 sec] it starts on L.
press again is off.
press again soon [2 sec or less], it goes to M.
press again is off.
press again soon [2 sec or less], goes to H.
press again, off.
so if you press fast, it is L/off/M/off/H/off
it works a LOT better than it looks
plus the switch is very good, short travel, nice click, fast action
It does sound that way but it’s really not bad at all.
The switch takes very little effort to operate with a very short travel.
To switch modes its no different than a UI were you have to double tap for turbo.
Tap for on and tap, tap to change modes, tap for off. Simple UI and tap, tap is easy to get.
The switch is a short stroke momentary, very little effort and travel that seperates it from other lights.
Dont knock it until you try it .
true
Low CRI produces low quality spectrum (specifically unable to correctly show red properly), high quantity
High CRI produces High quality, lower quantity
brightness is not the most important thing, to me
As a beginner, I spent time looking at brightness specs, as a starting point
as I became a more experienced flashoholic, I started to realize quality is more important than quantity, to me
I do not use maximum on my AAA lights… so maximum is not important to me
I do use my AAA lights to look at things with red content, food, skin, flowers, clothing, art… so for me cree Color Rendering, is unacceptably disappointing, by comparison to Nichia
here is an example of a typical Cree LED Red output, compared to a Nichia
focus your attention on the Red bar
the LED on the left is much brighter… but so what?
If it cannot show me Red things properly, I am not happy