No worries aL1, my experience (even with the couple of issues) has been excellent with the XinTD C8 V3, and also with Hank at International Outdoor.
I forgot to mention that the XinTD is also a very solid, thick-walled light, and the fact that the reflector screws on to the pill … which then screws into the host, means great heat-transference compared to those push-in / push-on type reflectors. It feels hefty and reliable in the hand, and also the switch is quite a beefy unit and should hold up well in time.
Still a great reliable buy in my mind … no gambling with quality issues or variable driver performance with some other similar throwers out there!
I’m so tempted to get V3 (really like the original), but the HD2010 I just got is so awesome (even on 18650 batteries) I might have to get another one of those instead.
No, it’s not an “issue”, d It’s just a different reflector. Could be that, a “not exactly matched” reflector for the LED, but for me, this type of beam is quite useful, actually. It combines throw and flood.
Has anyone had a chance to compare V2 to V3 yet? I have the second version, and if I had any complaint it was the reflector — rings in the beam — although I stippled the surface with hairspray to make a DIY orange peel, and it’s pretty nice now.
Just like d337944 I got myself one of those “scratched” V3’s. It’s a darn good flashlight, for the money I paid. It’s well made, bright as anything and can be ordered without those annoying blinky modes. I got the 3 mode version (low-med-hi). The beam pattern is not bad at all and it throws pretty good too. I’ve owned a couple of C8’s in the past (which I’ve since given away) but this one’s the best.
So, just for the hell of it, I unscrewed the reflector completely from my V2. Makes for a really nice mule: perfect circular wall of light.
I find that even the neutral XML has a bit of a green corona thing going on, which disappears when you take out the reflector. I suppose the only downside, mulewise, is that the emitter’s a bit far back from the opening. Also, you need some sort of spacer to keep the lens tight against the front o-ring — I figure I’ll just find a rubber washer the right size, if I decide to keep it like this.
I have two questions for those who owns XinTD C8 V3, the driver in the picture below directly touches to the battery? Is there a seperate battery compartment? (Inside the battery tube)
And is this light suitable for Mountain biking ? (Lots of shocks, tremors and shakes etc.
i’m thinking to buy this light with cool white led, but i already have a ultrafire C8 with xml-t6, but i measured the tailcap yesterday and my multimeter says 1.12, so i think that it means that my xml-t6 is only driven at 1.12A? correct? so would it be a big difference if i buy the XinTd?
Do you trust your DMM to read high currents? Many people with cheaper DMMs and especially cheaper leads (more important) suspected their light to be "under-driven" when they found out later that the leads for measuring had such a high resistance, that they would take away several 100 mA's. Do you have access to a second DMM/leads to crosscheck that measurement?
Yeah i can fix a multimeter somewhere, i’ll check it later today.
And my battery is a 3000mah ultrafire. i know it’s not very good, but she’s in good condition i think
Is the clicky of V3 very hard to press normally? I found that mine required a lot of pressure to press it. I had to use my index finger to get a better angle to press it instead of using my thumb.
My V3 has a much firmer switch than eg. my KD C8. I changed the rubber boot to a different one (14mm fits ok, the original is 16mm). The one I have has bit more height and it is much easier to push the switch now. Tighter spill than my KD C8 due to the deeper reflector as well.