What did you mod today?

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mattlward
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Those silly little volt meters fit inside very well. Got to get one of the 3 wire ones, then it will display voltage below 3 volts.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

ToyKeeper
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whopist wrote:
I fabricated a “dummy battery” charging lead to utilize the charging port on the light. The charging lead is also used to check the existing battery voltage without opening the light.



Nice. I did basically the same thing with my light saber, because taking the battery out is kind of a huge pain and risks damaging the internals. Also, it has no true “off” switch otherwise; I have to put in a non-conductive “kill key” to cut power.
Brinyte
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B58U waterproof testwink

Brinyte,bright your night!

-----------------------------

www.brinyte.com

Email:yeguang@brinyte.com

vulpes
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whopist wrote:
Great!
Keep us posted

Sure thing! Just purchased two, I hope they prove good for modding and gifts. $2.5 is a steal for nice host.
Fritz t. Cat
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A Ray Bow RB 501,
a budget two zone zoomy, with advanced TIR + aspheric optics, from Taobao.com https://world.tmall.com/item/15302013715.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.JDDdG..., via an agent. The head slides on two o-rings, and it is generally very well built for an un-shipped price of around $5 with battery. See http://budgetlightforum.com/node/47329.

This is just a driver and LED swap, but with a lot of details. Yesterday is the first time I built a Wight FET + 1 × 7135 driver. I have been getting them from BangGood and already built from Richard, because they looked hard to assemble. This one is with a board from OSH Park and a kit from Mtn. Elect. It looks a little crooked, but it works.
I also had to file a 16 mm. Noctigon down to 8 mm. The old star was put in place with rubbery thermal compound, so I used thermal epoxy. I didn’t file the pillar of the pill shorter, so I had to add an o-ring spacer to get it to focus, even though it had travel to spare before. The Noctigon added over a mm.

That is an XP-G R5 4C. I put heat sink compound on the pill threads and the front slide o-ring, as usual.

Added: The driver started having problems soon after I wrote this. It may be my build or the narrow ground ring. I plan to try a BangGood A6 driver in it. It worked really well when it worked and was, briefly, among my best lights.

August 20:
Because the narrow ground ring may have been the problem, I switched to a Qlite 11 × 7135 driver.
A problem remained that it went out, without changing modes, when the optics touched the dome of the LED. I added a 2nd o-ring spacer and partially de-domed the XP-G with file. It works now.
Next time: BangGood driver or Nichia LED, less solder between LED and star, file the pillar flat and 1 mm. or a bit more shorter. De-dome.
It seems to be not as bright as it was with the FET driver, but it works. The file de-dome seems to have made the spot smaller.

It seems not bright enough for the current it draws. Maybe the LED is damaged. I am changing to a Nichia LED that may work better and will draw more current. The pill is only about 1 mm. thick at the top, so I can’t file it to make up for the extra thickness of the direct thermal star.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

Budda
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I modded the Skilhunt H03F.
First I removed the Noctigon baseplate with a XM-L2 8B4 HICRI that was monuted on my H02.
Then I soldiered on the H03F and checked if it worked.
All good, exept that the Noctigon was too large to lay flat in the head of the H03F. Angry

So I removed the Noctigon from the H03F, I did re-flow a XM-L2 7C1 on the H03F original baseplate and reinstalled it.
Then, instead of putting the H03F toghether as original, I used the TIR optic from the H02, and I gave the H02 the reflector from the H03F.
Now I will use a lot more the H03 and I can still use the H02 (that now is a H02R).

All my reviews, in italian and english, here: Lumenreviews.com

djozz
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I had one UF-1504 leftover that had a Nichia219C and LD2 driver, that never had good throw. I redid the mod today, and now it still has its high current forward clicky (‘6A Ebay-switch’ I prefer a reverse clicky but this 1504 first gen. switch design does not fit a standard switch-board), and a BLF-A6 driver and dedomed XP-G2 S3 3D. For what it is worth for a thrower, the tint is pretty nice, much better than the much used (and now unavailable) S4 2B, and the throw is also really good, I measure 486 kcd at a current of 4.1A on a Keeppower 26650 IMR 4200 mAh, 30 seconds after switch-on.

I think that the mods are well done, with a high amp switch, neat spring bypasses, ledboard soldered to pill, area around the led-die blackened, very clean beam in spot mode. The body does not look mint anymore though, decent enough, but the ano is not perfect on some edges anymore.

In the end I like the impressive throw but still find the light too heavy to take on trips.

DB Custom
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Almost too easy to be called modding but…

A couple 2 or 3 weeks ago while checking out a comment about an S70 clone on ebay I saw a SRK in gold with 9 emitters on the cheap. Stupid cheap, like $13 or something. So I bought one. It came today… with Lattice Bright emitters making 1683 lumens on 4 LG HE-4 button top cells. Of course I opened it up and checked it out. They had a large FET for a simple driver, no sense resistor, small pair of wires to a single aluminum mcpcb housing the 9 XM-L copycats. So I pulled the LB emitters, dug around through my ever growing pile of stuff and found 9 XM-L’s I’ve pulled from other lights an put it back together with 20 ga Turnigy leads. 1811 lumens rock solid, meter wasn’t budging. Then I remembered having a second one of Richards SRK group buy driver’s put away… so I stuck that in there in place of the simple 2 mode (w hidden strobe) driver.

Now it makes 3881 lumens in High, 1228 lumens in medium and a very miserly 0.38 lumens in Moon. With reversing switch, it’s really nice. Smile

Perhaps later, if I remember, I can make a nice copper heat sink to assist the thick aluminum mcpcb….

Edit: 4157.25 lumens with the batteries freshly charged and an UCLp swapped in. Works for me! Smile

Edit: Pics of the driver and mcpcb from the e-bay Sky Ray with omitted “king”. (it’s a SRK but a clone apparently, although the site showed Sky Ray King lights)

will34
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Modded… or more like fixed my lumzoo GH10 with XP-L HI and a Zebralight driver rescued from a H600. The reason I didn’t repair the ZL instead was the press-fit bezel and would not longer be waterproof after the mod. Awesome compact angle light with excellent build quality all around.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48730

Tom E
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From the BLF Q8 project, got in the V5.1 drivers and reflowed a couple up, bench tested running the latest Narsil v1.1. It now can blink out the firmware vers #, as well as having full access to all strobe modes from ramping:

 

Also modded up the new UltraFire U-F10, yes, it's a real, true authentic Ultra Fire here, least it says so on UltraFire.com. It's got the driver in the tailcap:

Here's a close up of the 1 sided driver:

And here's the contact board in the pill:

The mods I made were: XM-L2 on SinkPAD, reflowed to the brass pill top (thick shelf), wires upgraded to 22 AWG, spring bypass's, and a resistor mod: added a 0.5 ohm on top of one of the 1.5 ohm resistors (I traced to follow a FET), and got amps up from 0.85A to 1.25A - moderate bump up, but now it does over 500 lumens in flood.

I'm thinking the MCU runs on power via those 3 resistors (bleed resistors?) that sit between LED+ and LED-, but the what that hard white substance covers is a mystery, but it's very low profile.

Anyone have ideas on how this tail driver e-switch works? No separate wires between the pill and tail.

 

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Had a chance to put some XP-G3’s in a few different hosts, one being a Manker U11. Removed the original board and re-flowed a “3” series High-CRI XP-G3 in place of the original XP-L. Definitely exhibits the hotspot-corona K/temp variation others have noted. The tint is the “creamiest” 5K emitter I’ve seen, more yellow than the Nichia’s I’m used to. Could be exaggerated because of the reflector, (others have said they look better in an optic), or could be further off the BBL line than the Nichia’s, hard to say because the specific tint bins weren’t listed.

Can’t speak to specific comparative output because I can’t get to most of my equipment, but to the eye it doesn’t look like I lost much output, but the throw was improved.

Hopefully I can get into storage and locate some of my stuff, first mods I’ve done in a while and it stinks having now way to measure output. There’s also a box of old lights in there somewhere, there’s a particular one I want mod with one of the XP-G3s, it’s a older E2L Outdoorsman, the one with the factory optic. Originally came with a Lux-III, so it might actually work well.

I’ll try and get some pics up later, can compare between the XP-G3 High-CRI and an NVSW High-CRI, but forgot to take “before” beamshots of the original XP-L.

-Michael

EasyB
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I tried a new production style XPG2 S4 2B in my UF-1504. With a fresh Liitokala 26650, I got 463kcd at 30sec. I only have one new style XPG2, bought from MTN, but this one performs quite well.

Not quite as good as the old one which was ~520kcd.

hank
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Quote:
they were next to each other in the same piece of reel…. totally different, very hard to believe it is the same type of led.

I think those colors showing in the image of the emitter are literally chunks of different phosphors — coarsely ground up, mixed in some medium and extruded to make the spot on the die. The coarser the phosphor material is, the spottier the die looks and the less consistent the color will be from one LED to the next on the same reel.

There’s an analogy with prescription medicines I recall reading a warning about:

— some pills are thoroughly mixed finely ground active ingredient(s) and binder, and it’s safe to break them (and they’re often scored to make it easy to divide them). When you break that kind of pill in half you get about the same amount of active ingredient in each half.

— some pills are coarse chunks of active ingredient(s) in a binder, and aren’t safe to divide — when you break them you can get all the active ingredient in one half, and just the binder in the other half.

I recall seeing that kind of spotty color mixing in LEDs used in one of the variations of the ZeusRay, when they were cutting corners on those. I’d suspect the reels are from a batch of poorly mixed phosphor.

Quote:
the convention for pharmaceutical companies to identify a tablet that has been homogenized – and therefore equally distributed throughout the tablet – is called ‘scoring’. This is a line that splits the tablet down the middle, or two lines into quarters. Though this isn’t necessarily conserved across ALL pharmaceutical companies, it’s generally followed.
(from https://drugs-forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=519081&postcount=3)
Lfatman
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A Maxtoch and Convoy fusion.

Dedomed XML2 U4 and LD-2 driver.
360.000 Cd.

hamedshh
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i mode old torch to a new modern led torch with a cree led that can recharge easily and can be used for long time!!
it most fun and useful?

Future is bright as predicted in all the scriptures!

khas
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I copied this Ultrafire F13 mod :

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/982941#comment-982941

The driver is Hi(1000mA) > Lo(200mA) > Str, with ontime memory and cool white LED.

Normally I don’t like cool white LEDs and ontime memory but this flashlight puts a smile on my face.

It’s a nice little mod a $10 host plus driver ($8,53) and LED ($5,99).

I like the driver/LED combination so much I have ordered a Jaxman X1 host from this thread :

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48736

Flashy Mike
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khas wrote:
I copied this Ultrafire F13 mod :

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/982941#comment-982941

The driver is Hi(1000mA) > Lo(200mA) > Str, with ontime memory and cool white LED.

Normally I don’t like cool white LEDs and ontime memory but this flashlight puts a smile on my face.

It’s a nice little mod a $10 host plus driver ($8,53) and LED ($5,99).

I like the driver/LED combination so much I have ordered a Jaxman X1 host from this thread :

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48736

This mod is on my list too. Did you measure throw and/or lumens?
khas
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No I don’t have any way to measure LUX/Lumens

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Flashy Mike wrote:
This mod is on my list too. Did you measure throw and/or lumens?

There is An MT-G2 mod on my list with two 26350 but I don’t know which host should I put in. F13 or Convoy L2. Luckily I need to build one for a friend with F13 host and he sent me a ZY-T08 MT-G2 for some repair and I can decide which one I want to build for myself.
XXX-Man
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Moded my Lii-100 Smile








"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."

My reviews:

Sofirn SF36 /// Thorfire VG10S /// Sofirn C8F /// Zanflare F1

XXX-Man
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Got all the parts and some free time to mod my Ultrafire C8 with XM-L T6 Smile
Difference is amazing, at least double throw and brightness.

XP-L HI, new driver, reflector and AR glass

"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."

My reviews:

Sofirn SF36 /// Thorfire VG10S /// Sofirn C8F /// Zanflare F1

djozz
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Well done XXX-Man, a good old C8 mod! Smile

 

I swapped the led of my new Thrunite TH20 headlamp. I got the lamp for under 30 dollars in a Gearbest flash deal lately, well not that 'flash' because the link from the Gearbest deals thread up to now gives the discounted price Smile

 

I absolutely think it is the best head lamp you can get atm: it looks good (for a head lamp that is), it is small and lightweight, it feels very comfortable on the head,works on all AA-size cells, gives a good output and runtime even on an Eneloop cell, the tiny OP-reflector gives it a wide diffuse hotspot that is made for close-up work, great user interface with ramping and direct access to moon and high etc. etc.

 

I got the neutral white version but for a head lamp it was still too cool for my taste. I had a nice U5 7A3 80 CRI XP-L (3000K) from intl-outdoor sitting in the parts box for ages so that was to be the swap. The parts:

The white part is a bezel tool that I made from a plank holder. I made it because with my needlenose pliers I could not open up the bezel and even scratched it a bit Sad . This tool got it open nice and clean, there was no thread-lock, it was just screwed in tight.

There you go, here's how the ledboard looks like, a dedicated little copper board that appeared to be DTP.

With the ledboard removed you can see that it sits on top of a groove that actually is the battery compartment, this is a tight design Smile . The thermal paste looks a lot like Arctic Silver.

I reflowed the new led and assembled the light without problems. and now the headlight emits a cosy warmish light that is to my liking, at high on a freshly charged Eneloop @30 seconds I measure 215 lumen (so a bit lower than stock), it is great for camping and reading books.

vwpieces
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Small Sun R804
This $3.50 light got a new XP-G2 S3 3D emitter flowed and a single mode Nanjg 102
WOW pretty sweet and powerful compared to its original state.
Grand total $8.55
Still needs glass.

Next to my I3S Brass

Wall from 6ft

DB Custom
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Converted my neighbor’s old duty light, a Streamlight Stinger, to LED. He is a retired cop and this was his beater EDC, a 6V tungsten on/off rechargeable. He wanted to keep the NiCad battery system so he could continue to use it on the wall charger as usual, so I put an XHP-70 in it in direct drive. The NiCad pack is old, low, and barely runs the big emitter now but he’s supposed to get me the charger so I can further test it. (will probably order him a 3500mAh NiMH pack, this old one is 2400mAh NiCad)

Anyone know if the NiMH pack will deliver more direct drive current to the big XHP-70?

I found a stippled reflector in Justin’s kit that fit the Streamlight (well, after some modification) and it works pretty well. I still need to trim it back a couple mm for the bezel to screw down all the way.

I made a 5mm thick spacer for the 26mm MaxToch copper mcpcb to center in, cut an emitter pocket in the surface so it’s flush on top, this is screwed down with a 1” long ground screw that was already present in the light for the tungsten bulb. This allows the set-up to pretty easily be reversed if he ever decides to retro it back to OEM. This spacer isn’t a press fit, but it’s snug enough that it is a bit of a bugger to push down into the head… it’ll go if perfectly straight and true otherwise it binds. Getting it back out is one of those deals where you have to squint-just-right-and-hold-the-tip-of-your-tongue-out-the-left-side-of-your-mouth-while-holding-your-head-tilted-slightly-right kind of things.

I’ll get a couple of pics when I do final fitment later today. Wink

EasyB
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DB Custom wrote:
Converted my neighbor’s old duty light, a Streamlight Stinger, to LED. He is a retired cop and this was his beater EDC, a 6V tungsten on/off rechargeable. He wanted to keep the NiCad battery system so he could continue to use it on the wall charger as usual, so I put an XHP-70 in it in direct drive. The NiCad pack is old, low, and barely runs the big emitter now but he’s supposed to get me the charger so I can further test it. (will probably order him a 3500mAh NiMH pack, this old one is 2400mAh NiCad)

Anyone know if the NiMH pack will deliver more direct drive current to the big XHP-70?

I found a stippled reflector in Justin’s kit that fit the Streamlight (well, after some modification) and it works pretty well. I still need to trim it back a couple mm for the bezel to screw down all the way.

I made a 5mm thick spacer for the 26mm MaxToch copper mcpcb to center in, cut an emitter pocket in the surface so it’s flush on top, this is screwed down with a 1” long ground screw that was already present in the light for the tungsten bulb. This allows the set-up to pretty easily be reversed if he ever decides to retro it back to OEM. This spacer isn’t a press fit, but it’s snug enough that it is a bit of a bugger to push down into the head… it’ll go if perfectly straight and true otherwise it binds. Getting it back out is one of those deals where you have to squint-just-right-and-hold-the-tip-of-your-tongue-out-the-left-side-of-your-mouth-while-holding-your-head-tilted-slightly-right kind of things.

I’ll get a couple of pics when I do final fitment later today. Wink

I think that 6V system is 5s, in which case it would not be high enough voltage to drive the XHP70 well. A 6s NiMH would drive it well.

DB Custom
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Ah, but the host is what it is and that isn’t going to change. Retired cops are well set in their ways, it’s gotta sit on his wall charger like it has for 25 years or it just ain’t right, ya know?

It’s brighter and whiter with much more coverage area than before, so, now that he’s retired and only looking for things that go bump in the night, it should suit him ok. A fresh charge on a new battery pack should show 7.5V, that’ll have to be enough. (NiMH 1.2V cells typically charge to 1.5V or so. 5 of these would net 7.5V when fresh. Since it has a wall mounted charger and the light resides in that charger, I’m gonna have to assume the charge level will essentially always be full.

Not likely to convince him to use a pair of Li-ions and take them out to recharge them. I might just show him what it can do with those, the difference might be impressive enough to him to do the convincing. Wink

EasyB
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DB Custom wrote:
Ah, but the host is what it is and that isn’t going to change. Retired cops are well set in their ways, it’s gotta sit on his wall charger like it has for 25 years or it just ain’t right, ya know?

It’s brighter and whiter with much more coverage area than before, so, now that he’s retired and only looking for things that go bump in the night, it should suit him ok. A fresh charge on a new battery pack should show 7.5V, that’ll have to be enough. (NiMH 1.2V cells typically charge to 1.5V or so. 5 of these would net 7.5V when fresh. Since it has a wall mounted charger and the light resides in that charger, I’m gonna have to assume the charge level will essentially always be full.

Not likely to convince him to use a pair of Li-ions and take them out to recharge them. I might just show him what it can do with those, the difference might be impressive enough to him to do the convincing. Wink

What about making a pack of 6 4/5 sub Cs? The length would be about 10mm shorter than 5 sub Cs. But this would require modification to the charger as well.

You’re right, if its always fully charged that helps.

vwpieces
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I have a little experience with power tool packs and rebuilding.
I have upgraded one of my Milwaukee 18V 2400 NiCd to 4300 NiMh. I still kept one pack in NiMh form for the rattle gun, 1/2in drive Impact. Something about the NiCd that dump more juice for the impact gun. Same deal on my buddy’s Snap-off gun as he tried NiMh rebuild and was disappointed. No idea how this will compare to draw to XPH70 on each type of cell though.

Also be very careful rebuilding the streamlight batt pack. I did one of those to a while ago. It’s odd to say the least took 2 tries after a shorted cell first try.

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Done a few mods recently. Mostly re-modding or finally modding some lights I’ve had a long time.

First up was my EagleTac D25LC2. I bought this a few years back, it was my ‘first’ modern proper LED torch. When EagleTac first launched the D Series.

It had a very cool white XP-G in it. It was a really nice light, but the tint was not for me, it also had quite a noticeable tint shift on lower outputs.

I had a spare XP-G2 R5 3C on a Noctigon, that pulled from an F13 (never really liked it in that light). And set to fitting it to the EagleTac.

First up, I did not want to mess with the driver (or break the light). On getting the bezel off and removing the lens and reflector, I found the head was quite deep and narrow to get down to the LED, so a bit of a fiddly soldering job.

Also the stock star must have been around 14mm sitting in a 15mm recess. So the 16mm Noctigon was too big. After much filing by hand the Noctigon eventually fitted. And all back together again. Now I have a nice more modern D25 EagleTac with NW tint, slightly higher output than before and the tint shifting on the lower modes seems to have mostly vanished.

Having completed the D25LC2. I moved to modding a zoomy I’ve had for ages. It’s an Ultrafire ZB-006 and is my most compact 18650 zooming light. I originally bought it, because it was meant to have an XP-G in it (years back….). However it turned up with an XP-E in it.

It was ok, bigger flood than an SK68 and slightly better throw. But it never really hit the spot for me. Tint was way too cool and while the throw was quite good for it’s size, it was a pencil beam. The driver was also horrid, H-L-Strobe with next mode memory and PWM.

This host is really thin and lighweight. So I knew it’d never be a complete hotrod, just doesn’t have the thermal mass. So I ordered up a 3.04A Qlite and an XP-L HI V2 3B on a Noctigon from Int’l Out door.

Sadly this turned into more of a pita than I thought it would be. The pill turned out to be hollow (I thought it had a shelf Facepalm )

And the fatter wires from the Qlite driver mean the led would not sit flat. So I’ve had to file out some channels for the wires. Then get it all installed.

End result, nice flood output and tint. But it really didn’t throw very well. The taller Noctigon must have moved the Led just out of focus at full zoom.

Ran it like this for a few days and just found myself annoyed with it. Eventually pulled the XP-L HI out of it and chucked in a de-domed XM-L2 that I had been running in a Convoy S2. Nothing fancy, it was a CW LED (I think from a Convoy S2+ so probably a 1A or something). Tint ins’t too bad de-domed, not brilliant, but acceptable. And for some reason the throw is much better than the XP-L HI and it focuses better now too (aluminium star).

Still not sure how much I like the light overall, but at least it’s a usable light now.

Flashy Mike
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Last seen: 11 hours 33 min ago
Joined: 01/14/2016 - 16:38
Posts: 1221
Location: Germany

Was bored this evening and so I did my first SRK mod (I know there have been millions of SRK mods before) – and got surprised.
The light has 7 fake XM-L Leds and no solid shelf. I got this light discounted for 20 $ a couple of months ago. Bought it only to see the “legendary” SRK in reality.
Got about 1500 Lumens before modding. I have not done much, just bypassed the series resistor which is realized as a long trace on the PCB, added 2 additional wires to the LED, did some soldering in the tail PCB to decrease resistance and put some thermal compound on the small ring where the MCPCB lays on.
Then I measured output again and – surprise – got about 3200 lumens, with protected cells! I didn’t expect this, more than twice as much as before.
The tint is blueish cold, and of course the light get’s to hot to hold after 30 seconds, the fake LEDs are not efficient at all. But they are still working – the second surprise.

Now I am even thinking of replacing the fake LEDs against some XM-L2 or so, and perhaps putting a copper disk under the LED board.

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