MRTdiver's custom Minimag build thread - Updated "Tests and Beamshots"

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Rufusbduck
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MRTdiver's custom Minimag build thread - Updated "Tests and Beamshots"

The Fins
The Head
The Driver
The Noctogon
The Tailcap
The Battery Tube
Done, Almost
Tests and Beamshots

The lucky winner chose a pewter Minimag with a triple Nichia at ~2.2A and cut down for a 14500 cell. The driver will be a Qlite 105C set for 15/100 with 6 – 7135 chips.

This light will have the copper fins I did for DBCstm’s light so the first thing to do is to make that part so I can mill the head and pill to fit it. One obvious difficulty is I will have to turn the triple pcb down to fit but I’m sure that won’t be the only trouble.

The pill will be made from copper repair tubing. It’s the same size as 1/2” coupler but comes in 12” lengths. I’ll take a piece of 3/4” pipe and resize it to fit snugly around the repair tubing. This is the part which will have the fins soldered to it and be epoxied with AS5 into the head leaving the fins exposed.

The host and some copper.

The 3/4” pipe section with ~7mm removed.

I annealed this piece on the stove, then slipped it inside another 3/4” pipe with the repair coupler inside it and rolled it round to resize it and maintain an even cylinder. Some filing and more rolling led to a snug fit around the coupler.

The OD of this piece is just under 3/4” so I set up the drill press with a 3/4” hole saw and punched 5 holes in a strip of copper, then reset the strip to punch out the rings with a 1 3/8” hole saw. This will leave plenty of excess to trim even.

A bit of clean up and sanding the ID and the rings are a snug fit around the first piece.

Before I solder this up I’ll anneal the rings and flatten them between metal plates in the vise. I’ll use some thin copper wire to space the rings evenly but more on that next time.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Edited by: Rufusbduck on 01/17/2014 - 04:46
MRsDNF
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Do you often get called a freak? I’ve pulled up my favorite chair, grabbed a beer and turned the HTPC on the 50’‘ plasma waiting for the next instalment. Gotta love these builds. Beer

 

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                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

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ryansoh3
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Very nice, can’t wait for some more! Party

BLF ≠ B-grade Flashlight Forum

 

DB Custom
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Yeah Baby! The BBC 261L’s big brother is coming!

Looking good, off to the races! Smile This should prove very interesting, I’m pulling up a chair beside Steve…popcorn? Smile

Rufusbduck
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I’m really liking how easy it is to make fins this way. It’s still tedious but the payoff is in how much more even they are than with the “drill press lathe” method. I’m still pretty busy at work so the next segment will be Wednesday when I solder this part up. Then the weekend to bore the head.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

DB Custom
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Will you be making the "pill" from scratch or using a drop-in? 

And have you considered a spacer on both ends so that the first and last fin will have airspace on both sides? If not, the 1st and last are up against aluminum, don't know if it'd be more or less efficient, just wondering.

Rufusbduck
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Scratch made pill from 1/2 pipe, repair coupling, sheet copper, and noctogon triple turned down to ~17.5mm. All of that will be a press fit into the finned part with the driver potted inyo the other end. The bezel snugs up against the first fin and the head grip snugs up against the last one. This light will get an extra fin as well. As short as it will be I may retap the tail cap threads instead of doing a continuous inner sleeve as with the BBC261L.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Gonna look pretty amazing in that larger format too. Will be watching...

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watching too Smile

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  I think someone is really going to like this Tongue Out

 

 

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I have the "prototype", trust me, like is too mild. Wink

MRTdiver, did you see it? Wanna see it? Smile

Naaaaa, that'd spoil it.....:P

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DBCstm wrote:
Yeah Baby! The BBC 261L’s big brother is coming!

Looking good, off to the races! Smile This should prove very interesting, I’m pulling up a chair beside Steve…popcorn? Smile


At ~ 350 mA a Nichia 219 specs between 110 and 150 lumens and roughly twice that at 750 mA depending on the bin. 3 LEDs would spec at 660 to 900 lumens but since I probably got a lower bin 450-500 would be more likely. BBC500L?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Be neat if it works out like that, being as how it'll be running a 14 500 cell. But you probably won't see that OTF, maybe , we'll see huh? Smile

For the record, my lightbox reads 333 at 30 seconds. Just sayin! Wink

Edit: In my experience the only cell that reliably allows 3A in that form factor is the AW IMR14500. Lesser cells won't pull it.

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We’re planning for 6 chips or 2.2-2.3A and if his cells can’t supply that hell get some imr’s. I’ll test the driver with an efest 14500 first to verify it before installation. Twice the overall current with 3 times the LEDs as 261L. The lower drive current per led should increase efficiency but since the Nichia isn’t as potent as the xpg2 I don’t expect any miracles. I think it really depends on the bin of the Nichias.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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RBD - I just love watching you do your thing!Smile

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Finally got back to the shed tonight for some swearing and crying I mean sweating and grinding. When we last were all here I stopped with a slightly smaller copper cylinder and some discs. The discs I annealed on the stove top and flattened in a vise between two steel washers.

Then I took some plain awg20 copper wire and wrapped enough around some pipe for the 5 spacers that separate the discs.

Then I carefully worked it onto the cylinder to size the diameter.

Then I just cut the wire in a line down the cylinder making 5 wire rings exactly the right diameter.

Then I fluxed the cylinder and put the discs and rings on and cooked it over a low heat and added some solder.

Oops! It’s crooked. !#%. I had to clean it up, reflux, and reflow it a couple of times before I was happy with it.

A little preliminary clean up then it’s off to the drill press.

And here’s how it looked after about an hour and a half of sanding.

Right now it’s still a few millimeters larger than the Minimag head and I think I’ll leave it the way. Next episode I’ll bore out the head and cut it to allow the fins to sit between the bezel and the head grip.

update

Upon further consideration MRTdiver decided it would be better to have the fins flush with the rest of the head and aestheticly I agree so I chucked it back in the drill press and sanded it down until it was ~.2mm over the head Dia. With the fabrication done on the pill and driver I went ahead and epoxied it into the head with JB weld. Can’t make it bigger now.

This was the best of about a dozen pics and I give up.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Coming to a theater near you. :bigsmile:

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

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Simply orsm Rufusbduck. Seriously I have no idea how you guys do these amazing things until you explain it in pictures. The light OL is building I was stuck at getting the reflector to fit in the head as I could not hold it in the lathe. It wasn’t until a member here posted pictures on using a drill press as a mill/lathe that it all twigged. Thanks. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Awesome work Rufusbduck. Its always amazing seeing what some people can do with just common tools and their hands. Simply amazing work, I am impressed. Wink

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That’s it, I’m packing up my gear and heading over to your shed! Photo documentary and video light modding 101! Smile

As always, beautifully excellent work there Scott! And as always, the extra mile has been run, surpassed, and fine tuned.

Steve said it well. ORSM!

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Qlite driver and triple optics arrived yesterday(thanks Dale for the heads up about RMM). Still waiting on noctogon triples from IOS. Cat’s away this weekend so should get more done soon. Future mod updates will have link to post # updated in the op title

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Shame you didn’t pick up a couple extra Noc Trip’s while you were at it, got mine today with some Panny PF’s for the M8. Smile

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I ordered 4 from IOS and RMM is out of stock so its wait or use an Alu pcb.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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How close is IOS? I just got one from RMM today. Need it?

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I ordered them 2 weeks ago but they sometimes take awhile. I’ll need it soon so if you send me one I can replace it when they come in. boring the head tonight and making the pill tomorrow. After that it will be several days before I can get back to it. Enough time for it to get here(yours or theirs). You would have my undying gratitude ( well, lasting as long as my short term memory anyway).

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I’ll pack it up tonight and get it to you first thing in the morning. (Or ASAP, Ice being the determining factor) Want the little cross-over’s too? I’ll pack em.

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Great. If the jumpers are packed, fine. If not I can live without them.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I stayed up late last night to bore the head, cut it, and hone the inside to fit the fin section. It starts on the drill press with the head pressed into a block of wood. Using first a step drill and then a 3/4” hole saw to widen and deepen the bore.

Last time I cut the the head freehand with a thincut dremel blade. This time I took a page from OL and used the same blade but in the drill press instead.

After that it was just a matter of spinning some wet/dry sand paper in the two pieces to get the ID from 19mm out to 19.4mm when the parts would slip over the fins without too much play.

The fit is nice with very little play but room for some epoxy. The parts don’t get glued until the pill is done with led and driver both installed.

To that end I stayed up even later and made the pill. The copper on 1” fittings is much thicker than the copper sheet I have(1mm instead of .5mm) so I’ll use a piece of that(annealed and flattened) along with 1/2” pipe and 1/2” coupler. Here I’ve already soldered the thicker flat piece to the 1/2” pipe and filed it flush.

Next I press these two parts together and solder them as well.

Now to test the fit in the fin section.

This is a very snug press fit. Not quite requiring a vise but not at all loose. With the copper noctogon soldered to the top it should have good heat transfer to the fins. About 7 hrs work in this post including photos.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Thanks for the detailed pictures. I could follow what was happening with what little grey power I have left. I could also well believe 14 hours if you had said that. I would have taken 30 and theres not a hope it would look like the perfection you have created. Nice work indeed.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Beautiful craftmanship! Love that attention to detail! Thank you for sharing Smile

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Rufusbduck
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I’ll have to turn down the noctogon before I solder it to the pill. The optic peg inserts fit the ID of the fins but the posts do not so that’s how much material needs to be removed. Also, the outside of the posts will need to be sanded down as well. Alternately I could cut 3 slots in the fin tube and that might reduce the leverage on the posts caused by a fixed board and rotating bezel.

The anodizing on colored Minimags is very weak so I don’t count on it to isolated the head from the tube electrically. Instead I isolate the driver ground from the pill and give the driver a second ground contact plate that can only contact the polished end of the tube. I learned that trick from JohnnyMac on one of his Micromags. It works great but it’s a whole lot easier to just use a single sided board and stack extra chips, JM couldn’t on his build as he was using a buck driver with no gnd ring at all. In this case the 15/100 program isn’t readily available on a single sided nanjg board so needs must when the devil drives. Here is the pill and driver from my edc triple Nichia Minimag. The pill is much the same except this one has an OD of 20mm instead of ~17.5mm for the pewter Minimag.

The pill on the left holds an XML and is cupped the other way. This pushes the led closer to the driver but maintains a large contact area with the head. The two are interchangeable in the same light. I did a poor job centering the mcpcb and the lens holder sits cocked as a result.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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