2AA Maglite 90 degree Swivel head mod - The second attempt works! Beam shots are up

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Old-Lumens
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2AA Maglite 90 degree Swivel head mod - The second attempt works! Beam shots are up

I imagine most everyone has seen this type of light.

rot1 The photo is linked to the seller for more pics.

 

I have too and I have always wanted to make one, but it has always seemed too hard. I finally gave in and I am trying this on a Mini-Mag. 

901a

It's a 2AA Incan Mini-Mag. I will be cutting it so that it will swivel from straight to 90 degrees. I will be using Copper pipe inside the body as the liner and swivel mechanism, since it's easy to form, solder and finish off.

 

 

 

901b

First I need to mark a true 90 degree line and I did it in pencil on my bench, with a square. Then I marked out the 45 degree lines, for a template to cut the body.

901c

 

 

 

 

901d

I have two pencil lines up on the body near the threads. Those are where the head is down all the way and turned up to where it will be for this mod. I am measuring how far the battery will go in, so I can mark that and then make my cut somewhere between the marks.

901f

I have clamped down the body and then I am ready to cut. The small square is there to help keep me from cutting on an angle as I make the 45 degree cut on the body.

901g

 

 

 

 

901h

The cut is done and you notice below that it's not a true 90. I can work on that by sanding the mating surfaces on a sanding block, to get the match closer to a perfect 90.

901i

 

 

 

 

90091

I start with 120 grit and then move on to 320 grit. I am just getting the fine tuning done, so the ends match tightly.

901j

 

 

 

 

902a

Now I need to figure out the OAL for my Copper pipe. I have to leave room at the ends, for contacts, so I cut it a little shorter than I want and by the time I make the 45 degree cut, it will be about the right length.

 

 

 

902b

But, I can't put the Copper pipe in the body, it's too big! So I have to split it lengthwise.

Then it's still too big, so I have to start shaving off a little at a time, till it is a tight fit inside the body.

902c

Like I said, a little at a time. It's time consuming, but that's hand work for ya.

902e

 

 

 

 

 

90z1

I also have to heat the Copper up and make it soft, so it will form to the smaller ID od the light body. I heat till it turns black when it cools.

90z2

 

 

 

 

902g

That's pretty good and I am using a diamond file to dress off the edges. When all is said and done, this pipe will be cut at a 45 degree angle, like the body and soldered at the seams to make it strong again.

902h

 

 

 

 

 

902i

Now you notice my knurling does not match any more, because of the cut, so I will have to make a spacer of some kind, but that works well for this swivel, because I will solder flat Copper on each end of the pipe, where the body goes together, so I can connect the two ends and the thickness of the flat copper will space out the body.

902j

 

 

 

 

 

902k

I have the copper cut and sanded smooth to the Aluminum, so everything matches well. Then I solder the flat copper onto the pipe and solder the seam in the pipe as well. I just use my torch and heat till the solder melts. It does not hurt the color of the light if I just heat till the 60/40 solder melts.

902l

 

 

 

 

 

902m

Here's the pieces soldered and I need to do a lot of clean up on them. I will be cutting the flat pieces, so that when it's back together, they will be the same OD as the body, for a smooth line the whole length.

902n

 

More when I get more done.......

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 02-25-14

I finally decided on how to hold the two pieces together and put the positive wire thru, at the same time.

swi1a

swi1b

A brass screw and nut, with a hole drilled in the center of the screw. I haven't cleaned the hole out yet in this shot. 

 

 

sri1c

The Copper body inserts are shaped and drilled for the screw.

 

 

sri1d

sri1e

This is how it might look when it is done, if I can figure how to tighten the screw, so the two pieces are snug, but not too snug, while keeping the screw to loosen. Once I figure that out, I'm home free, Right?

swetrjgffdf

I ended up using JB Weld on both ends of the screw, to fill up the ends and once it hardens, it should work fine.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Well, it's time to call it quits on this light. Maybe someday I will find a good way of attaching the two sections, but not this time around and once I reach a certain point, it's dumpster man time. I take a certain amount of pleasure, bitter/sweet, in throwing a project out, that has caused many headaches. Anyhow, it's not to be this time, maybe some day. What I need is to find a hollow rivet that is no more than 3/16" outer diameter, to have any room left for some type of detent to stop the swing at 90 degrees. It's another case of ten pounds of ---- in a five pound box.

I couldn't stand it, so I had to try again.

902a

I bought a blue light and started all over again. Here you can see the copper insert already made. I ended up using a 1/8" diameter pop rivet with a washer on each side and I took out the center of it for the wire hole. I still had one of the copper pills left from about a year ago, so I used it and used an XM-L2 on a copper star. The plastic bushings are to keep the positive contacts from touching anything and the TIR optic is what I generally go with on these mods.

 

902b

This is the battery terminal end. A copper disc, a spring, plastic bushing inside.

 

902c

Here's the other end that goes to the head. Spring and plastic bushing. I used Fujik to hold things in place.

 

902d

The pill is in place. and the positive is isolated by the plastic bushing, with the terminal on the end.

 

902e

I used AA to hold the star on. The negative just grounds right to the pill.

 

902f

The ano is removed from the end of the body, so it will make contact with the pill.

 

902g

15 degree TIR optic.

 

903a

Both halves of the body have a brass pin through, to hold everything together.

 

903b

Well, at least it works. Not real happy, but it got finished and it works.

 

I will do a couple of beam shots tonight. This uses one 14500 and it's DD. The XM-L2 is cool white.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

90b1

90b2

90b3

 

It's running about 1.4 amps DD with an efest 14500.

 

That's all folks...

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Edited by: Old-Lumens on 03/09/2014 - 22:04
8steve88
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Great stuff yet again, I love watching something like this come together.

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Seriously? OL you have far to much patience. Watching with great interest.

 

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                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

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Cool project OL! Have you taken one apart before or are you freestyling this mechanism from that creative brain of yours?

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HBomb wrote:
Cool project OL! Have you taken one apart before or are you freestyling this mechanism from that creative brain of yours?
Free style. Don't have a clue as to how to do it. Just winging it.

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Nice. You + Winging it = Awesome. Looking forward to watching it unfold. Maybe you’ll need bring back another copper duck foot for this one like you did for the one you gave SB Smile

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HBomb wrote:
Nice. You + Winging it = Awesome. Looking forward to watching it unfold. Maybe you'll need bring back another copper duck foot for this one like you did for the one you gave SB :)
Nope, maybe Bigfoot this time.Tongue Out

Most likely a clip on this one.

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Anybody thinking its even remotely simply to get as close to 45 degrees on that cut freehand as OL did should try this just to have the joy of throwing away a $10 light. As always watching, learning, and hoping to figure out how to imitate the original.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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this is light is going to be awesome. any idea yet on what led you are going to use?

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some of my mods:

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this should be interesting Smile

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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That has got to be one of the finest works of flashlight home engineering and mechanical build I have ever seen! You are my hero… Shocked

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I can't wait to see what he does for the 2014 buildoff contest thingamajigger! Big Smile

 

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dentillozie wrote:
this is light is going to be awesome. any idea yet on what led you are going to use?
Most likely I will either use a Nichia 219 or an XP-G2 at 1.5 amps with a TIR optic.

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WarHawk-AVG wrote:

I can't wait to see what he does for the 2014 buildoff contest thingamajigger! Big Smile

 

I will not be in the contest. I am running it and I will be a judge, but not a builder.

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Rufusbduck wrote:
Anybody thinking its even remotely simply to get as close to 45 degrees on that cut freehand as OL did should try this just to have the joy of throwing away a $10 light. As always watching, learning, and hoping to figure out how to imitate the original.
RBD, really the cut is not as hard as it looks. Truthfully, I never thought it could be done, but I haven't messed one up yet. I tried a miter box one time and ruined two bodies before I went this way.

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I’ll take your word on that. You have a good eye, better than most and it shows.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Old-Lumens wrote:

WarHawk-AVG wrote:

I can’t wait to see what he does for the 2014 buildoff contest thingamajigger! Big Smile

 

I will not be in the contest. I am running it and I will be a judge, but not a builder.

When is this “Buildoff thingamajigger” ?

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

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Rufusbduck wrote:
Anybody thinking its even remotely simply to get as close to 45 degrees on that cut freehand as OL did should try this just to have the joy of throwing away a $10 light. As always watching, learning, and hoping to figure out how to imitate the original.

I agree. Not only the vertical angle, but the blade will lay over slightly too. I always need to leave lots of space in a cut, about a minimags.
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That looks great, good idea!
I’m excited to see progress. Wink

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Nice work so far, Justin.  Looking forward to your progress. Cool

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DenBarrettSAR wrote:
Old-Lumens wrote:

WarHawk-AVG wrote:

I can't wait to see what he does for the 2014 buildoff contest thingamajigger! Big Smile

 

I will not be in the contest. I am running it and I will be a judge, but not a builder.

When is this "Buildoff thingamajigger" ?
Look in the new contest forum and see for yourself.....Tongue Out    I had a teaser thread up on it since the first of the month. The sign-up starts the first of March and the contest starts in April. 

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Even using a good name brand chop saw that miter is difficult to do properly. Nice work, daunting work, glad you’re doing it and not me.

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Updated the OP with a couple more photos.

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Good question on how to do the screws up. Drilling holes in the side I suppose is out of the question. My first problem would be how to get the holes in the right position so the two halves stay aligned in all positions. My first thought is (dont know how to make it work) is the plastic plug type clips they hold dashboards and grills in these days so that the two halves press together. I no doubt know you will come up with some sort of black magic. Looking really good.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

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As with the contest it’s always fun to see how others overcome difficulties.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Interesting thread, looks like it’s coming together nicely. Look forward to seeing it finished.

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Detents for a position and a stop? Gotta keep from twisting the wire too much too right? A detent or two for position points and a stop at straight and 90º so it stays within that short pivoting range will keep the wire intact. Hopefully. Otherwise, it’d take a continuous positive/ground rotating connection between the 2 plates.

A nylon locking nut will keep the screw from loosening or tightening up.

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I might have a solution for your screw dilemma…… Solder or glue the nut fast so all you have is the screw to deal with and that should be no problem seein its a Philips.

Jack Of All Trades Master Of None!

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Amazing work, seriously amazing.

Good choice with the TIR optics too.

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I just used JB Weld on both ends of the screw. Filled up the ends, leaving just the wire hole. It ought to hold fine. Takes about 24-48 hours before I will do anything else with it. Besides another cold front is coming in and I can't do anything at work any more, so it will wait till it warms up again.

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