KronoReview: EDI-T D39 single 26650 triple XM-L Dive Flashlight (Factory Spring Bypass!)

LED Flashlights – General Info 26650 Flashlights
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KronoReview of the EDI-T D39 dive light. This item was provided by Lily at TomTop for review.


^ Product page/website pic ^

TomTop regular price: $22.60.
EDI-T/Manufacturer website: www.edi-t.com (Cannot find ANY information on the D39 on their site).

Features & Specifications (From TomTop product page):
Features:
Waterproof up to 60 meters submerged designed specifically for divers.
Using one CREE XM-L T6 LED chip, brightness can reach 5000 lumen.
8 switch modes: rotate switch to the left (4 modes) or right (4 modes).
The solid aluminum alloy shell can avoid damage when it drops off the ground.
Anti-abrasive, skid-proof, shock-proof and waterproof design.
It can be widely used for diving, biking, camping, backpacking, hunting, fishing, emergencies and home repair, etc.

Specifications:
Color: Black
Emitter brand: CREE
Emitter type: XM-L T6
Material: Aluminum alloy
Lumen: 5000LM
Switch location: Middle (ON/OFF, Mode Select)
Switch type: Rotary switch
Waterproof level: IPX8
Power supply: 1 * 26650 battery (not included)
Flashlight size: 18 * 5.7 * 3.6cm / 7.1 * 2.2 * 1.4in
Flashlight weight: Approx. 276g / 9.8oz
Package size: 18.5 * 5 * 5.5cm / 7.3 * 2.0 * 2.2in
Package weight: Approx. 297g / 10.5oz

Package List:
1 * LED Diving Flashlight

My added specs:
Lens material: Plastic
Lens OD: ~51mm
Lens thickness: ~3.75mm

KRONOREVIEW:

The EDI-T D39 is a single 26650 dive flashlight with triple XM-L emitters. It is shipped in a typical, non-retail cardboard box. Light is controlled with rotary switch. There are 8 modes, left turn on magnetic ring starts on Turbo. Return to center and left turn again for high. Repeat for medium and low, then modes repeat. Right turn starts on SOS, then slow beacon, medium beacon and finally fast beacon…and repeats. It has a smooth, one piece reflector, and a very thick plastic lens. There is also a factory spring bypass which I believe might be a first.

PROS:

Price.
Magnetic control ring enabling one-handed operation.
Thick lens.
Reverse polarity protection (confirmed).
Emitter shelf flush on outer edge.
Anodized threads enabling lockout.
Extremely floody beam pattern.
Ample threads.
Double seals on tail side of battery tube.
Triple seals on driver side of battery tube.
Fits protected or un-protected 26650s.
Tailstands.
Ample cooling fins.
Factory spring bypass on driver spring!
9 amps on Turbo with Efest purple 18650!!! I used my own adaptor (no adaptor included w/light).
At 3 amps per XM-L emitter, that is approximately 2700 lumens! (According to Dale :bigsmile: )

CONS:

Older XM-L emitters.
Easily scratchable plastic lens.
No lanyard.
Plastic control ring with very small metal detent ball.
No knurling on battery tube.
Emitters not centered, difficult to center after the fact.
Slight depression in middle of emitter shelf.
Unable to figure out how to remove driver. Brass retainer ring looked pressed-in.
Needs additional thermal grease on the outside edge of MCPCB.

PICTURES


^ Side-view ^



^ Alternate views ^


^ Tailstanding ^



^ Sideview of cooling fins ^



^ Magnetic control ring ^



^ Logos ^


^ Head separated ^


^ Driver side threads. Notice the double seal…one black and one clear ^


^ LED view. Notice off-center emitters ^


^ In hand ^


^ Tailcap with sizeable side lanyard hole ^

DECONSTRUCTION


^ Be very careful removing battery tube from driver side of light. This can loosen the switch ring enough where the ball detent can fall out. I was lucky enough to find this small sucker after dropping on the floor 3 times! ^


^ Control ring removed. There is actually a magnet which you can see at the 12 o’clock position ^


^ Open head, top of MCPCB, emitter view ^



^ Underside of emitter. Notice the center of emitter shelf is stepped down from the outside of the shelf. WHY? ^


^ Bottom of reflector and lens ^


^ Spring bypass mod. Focus on spring ^


^ Spring bypass mod. Focus on driver. ^


^ Inside battery tube. 3rd internal battery tube seal (driver side) on the left. ^


^ Tailcap ^


^ Tailcap spring ^


^ Tailcap threads, double seal ^

UNDER WATER




^ Shots of light in non-working hydrostatic pressure chamber. I could not get chamber to seal properly. Nevertheless, I left light under water for 7 days and absolutely zero leaks. Obviously not the same as under pressure. Once (if :8) ) I get chamber operational, I will edit this review ^

BEAMSHOTS/NIGHTSHOTS:



^ Side-view of beam ^


^ Control shot ^


^ Turbo beam shot. Lights is shockingly bright!!!. Picture taken at 9.0 amps on Efest purple 26650/adaptor! 8 amps on MaxToch unprotected INR 26650 4000mAh 4.7 amps on protected KeepPower 26650 5200mAh. ^

(Reserved: For some reason this beamshot didn’t take)
^ High beam shot. Picture taken at 4.1 amps on Efest purple 26650/adaptor. (2 amps on protected KeepPower 26650 5200mAh. 4.1 amps on MaxToch unprotected INR 26650 4000mAh) ^


^ Medium beam shot. Picture taken at 1.4 amps on Efest purple 26650/adaptor. (.5 amps on protected KeepPower 26650 5200mAh. 1.5 amps on MaxToch unprotected INR 26650 4000mAh) ^


^ Low beam shot. Picture taken at .4 amps on Efest purple 26650/adaptor. (.1 amps on protected KeepPower 26650 5200mAh. .4 amps on MaxToch unprotected INR 26650 4000mAh) ^

SUMMARY

Decent build quality for above water usage, but could be a suspect performer in dive situations. However, for out-of-the-water applications, this is a HUGH performing triple for under $23. Sufficient semi-glossy black HA-II anodization, ample threads, extensive use of seals, somewhat decent thermal path, lockout, 26650 battery…a lot to like here. Machining quality is sufficient for this level of flashlight. Although this light has older emitters, that might actually be a good thing considering the vF issue on newer XM-L2 emitters. Cost is also a major plus for a decent, high amp, triple emitter light. Overall, a nice, bright and versatile light for a budget price…especially at an estimated 2700 OTF lumens.

KRONOMETER patented rating: 4 out of 5.

2

Thanks for the review .

Looks like a good light .

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Thanks for the excellent review. I was thinking about doing one myself since I’ve bought such a light mid Januar at the ebay store of Tomtop. (http://www.ebay.de/itm/400826298862)
I found these dive lights in the store while browsing the ebay offerings of Tomtop and was fascinated of the price/performance ratio. Later I read your post here (“Two budget dive XM-L triples and a tube light from tomtop”). So I had to own a triple-emitter light for such a bargain price. And the magnetic control is a nice extra.
Some obervations of my own:

- the XML’s are a bit better centered at mine

- it is difficult to put the reflector back in place whilst match the holes for the emitters

- the MCPCB is glued to the shelf (you obviously pried it loose with some effort?)

- the MCPCB has 3 SMD-resistors which seem to balance the current through the 3 XML (in parallel I assume)

- the quiescent current of the electronic switch is first about 0,2mA and drops after ~20sec to 0,02 mA - nothing to worry about (almost no drainage of the battery while in standby)

- a quick current measurement (tailcap) with a protected 26650 EVVA 4500mAh @4,05V delivered 4,8A, obviously it could be more with a fresh charged IMR cell?!

- mine has no factory spring bypass… :frowning: could it be that the one you got for review was “specially prepped”?

  • since you’ve used also unprotected cells - is there any knowledge about a low voltage warning/protection with this driver?
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Hello Antenne.

Yes, the reflector is indeed difficult to put back into place as it wants to turn and not stay lined up with the emitters.

My MCPCB wasn’t glued, but it seemed to be at first. A little prying/coaxing with a small-bladed flat screwdriver, and it popped up fairly easily. There was just a dab of thermal grease occupying the stepped-down depression in the middle of the emitter shelf.

And yes, I received a huge increase in amps when using an unprotected cell. You should see an increase also if you get an IMR or perhaps other unprotected cell.

As far as I know, the spring bypass was not specially prepped, and I didn’t ask for it to be shipped that way.

Low voltage warning was something I was also interested in, but I can’t find ANY information on EDI-Ts website concerning the D39. Not sure if they haven’t updated it yet or what. I have sent them an email to get additional information.

Glad you enjoyed the review!

krono

5

Thank you and very nice review.
Is the ring smooth and can easily operate using one hand?
I just wish it came with a glass lens. Or are all dive lights plastic?

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I would says it is fairly smooth, but I don’t have much to compare it to. It is definitely operable with one hand.

Also not sure whether glass or plastic is typical for dive lights.

7

Looks like a winner, cheap bright and waterproof. I can’t think of anything as bright single cell triple XM-L format with a control ring.

8

Definitely want to see the pressure test results…but still a very awesome light and great review

kronometer…heh

9

Hi guys and nice review. I am fairly new to the forum but I own an EDI-T D39 myself that stopped working…

I cannot find any schematics for them and I’m a bit stuck atm… Any help highly appreciated

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^ Driver side threads. Notice the double seal…one black and one clear ^
Where is the spring bypass in the picture with this caption?

11

I’m not cynical enough yet, but I’m working on it.

And I’d suggest that you always suspect any light sent to you for review got some special prep work done.
When it’s still imperfect that’s a measure of the stuff they simply don’t realize makes a difference.

But I sure hope you’ll inquire about that tailcap bypass, for example.

Now this story’s a whole lot worse, I think, than the worst that could happen with flashlights. But they do get hot, and ….
_

I recall vaguely learning somewhere back in the good old days — long ago when all the computers and monitors were big beige plastic boxes, and dinosaurs roamed the server rooms — some overseas plastics manufacturers eventually got caught out for making up special, difficult, expensive plastic that would pass the Underwriters Labs flame tests.

Once the specially prepared samples passed testing, the consumer and business models shipped were made of the old cheap plastic that supported fire. This had some consequences:

————————————————
*You don’t even want to look at a flashover video

Just sayin’ — this is why Consumer Reports buys their samples off the shelf at retail.

Krono, if you’d be interested in extending your testing slightly, I for one would gladly contribute toward a fund you could draw on to — using a secret identity — buy one or two samples at retail to compare to the ones you’re sent to look at.

Think of it as a strategic deterrent (grin)

12

Very interesting light. Looking at their website (at the right column after clicking on any of the horizontal choices) - they have a boatload of offerings. This light seems reasonably priced too.

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Any possibility that was meant for a thicker smaller diameter pill? I wrestled with the ZeusRays that started showing up with that same kind of problem, a deeper carve-out — and found those were the right depth for 2mm thick boards.

Almost as though it were done intentionally by someone who didn’t know exactly what he was making.

So I thought if it measures out something like 1mm or 1.5 or 2mm by some reasonable diameter, maybe it was set that way on purpose.

Else the guy just nodded off over the drill press and overran a bit …?

14

Good eye there. It is actually just barely poking out of the head tube. The spring bypass is soldered a couple of windings down from the end of the spring.

15

I am trying to get additional info from EDI-T…will post if received.

What sort of problem are you having?

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I have started to equip all my lights with bypasses for the springs, both driver+tailcap side. Usually I use very flexible silicone insulated wire (sold as measuring/test leads/wires with very fine copper threads inside). One hint for the EDI-T D39: to avoid that the little steel ball under the control ring jumping off I’ve fixed this ring to the head with sticky tape for better handling.

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You mean while dis-assembling…correct? Good idea.

18

Right… I have disassembled the the EDI-T D39 to the stage where the top of MCPCB is shown. Problem I face here is that we cannot disassemble it any further for example and separate the MCPCB from the back.

How many negative/positive wires you have coming out to the MCPCB? Each for every emitter, 3 black & 3 red? I am missing the bottom black wire…

Regarding the battery, do you reckon it is fully functional at 3.35V instead of 3.7V or close to that?

19

I like it, thanks for the review. I suppose a spacer with a 18650 wouldn’t make much sense in a triple?

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just purchased one of these and can’t seem to get anywhere near the amps you are getting. Here are my results with my two best batteries. Gotta wonder if your light was specially built. Anybody else play around with one of these lights?

Orbtronic 26650 5200mah H-imr protected 10A trip = 3.95a 4.21v
Panasonic NCR18650GA 3500mah unprotected –3.90a 4.21v

I will say that it is much brighter than my Luckysun F3x 3 led 26650 light. That light really doesnt seem to be worth the extra consumption. My single led lights are just as bright.

Mike