HaikeLite XHP70 Thrower Prototype Sneak Preview

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T18
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hIKARInoob wrote:
T18 wrote:
Texas Ace, thanks for posting that information, I have been trying to figure out all that was just discussed and was leaning towards the 4S, mainly because I didn’t know anything about what I do know now thanks to your great explanations and all I was doing and thinking was, I have the M43 and all batteries are what I know now as 4S and when I test them are all in perfect sync discharge state, of course I did intentionally buy all my batteries at the same time as the light and use them only in that light and it works so perfectly for me, so that was all I was going by when trying to figure out which configuration to buy. I had not seen before a 2S2P light and couldn’t understand why they would consider that as an option, but I sort of understand now, thanks again. BG has these for sale and there is a coupon floating around by Martin that brings the 07 from $95 to $80 and the 03 from $129 to $109.99, leaves a little money for the HaikeLite suggested Sanyo GA 18650 or other semi-button top unprotected 18650s which RMM has a good price for the Sanyo’s GA’s unprotected. I have also asked BG which version they are selling as it does not say on their site and it does make a difference as I’ve come to understand. Still leaves me to wonder which light the MT03 or MT07, but at least I know it’s 4S preferably per explanations by and thanks to T-A.. Thank You, I was very confused, and maybe still am.. Smile

Sorry to confuse you, but your M43 (Noctigon) is 4P ;-).

Oh Ya.. Who says..? Silly

I knew as I logged off, I was thinking did I saw 4S or 4P.., Well I was certain of one thing, I will know the answer to that when I log back on, and yes it is 4P so Thank You and by the way no need to be sorry about confusing me, I am an expert at confusing me
One thing is for certain with me and that is if T-A says the 4S is the way to go, and I think Tom says the same, along with KB, so 4S it is and I will learn the rest as it goes.
Maybe I should just go read on parallel and series applications more, back to basics, fundamentals,
I sure am not short on info being I actually have Google on my computer, I think it came with it when I bought it.. Sure is handy.
I’m kidding ya, I paid extra to have it installed.. LOL … but I do want to know more about this issue and well just about everything else also, ..
Thank you for clarifying my mistake, I do appreciate that..!!

Texas_Ace
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Well firstly most 4s setups can be converted to 4P without a lot of hassle if you desire, or even 2s2p.

For a buck driver the only thing available right now that I am aware of is the MtnMax buck driver from RMM.

hIKARInoob
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Cheers bro, I’m kind of a confused person myself. Looking at my harem of lights I wonder…. Am I sane?

T18
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hIKARInoob wrote:
Cheers bro, I’m kind of a confused person myself. Looking at my harem of lights I wonder…. Am I sane?

Yes indeed, I counted what lights I have in plain site, phone rang and last I recall I was somewhere in the high 80’s, I could probably times that by three and come out short, it is insane.
It get even stranger when your going to go out in the evening and can’t decide which light to take with you..
Tom E
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Sane?

 

hIKARInoob
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Hehe. I feel home here.

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Impressive.

Wrathbringer27
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What’s to the right of the M24 ?

Words can be broken,
so can bones.

T18
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We could have a name that light contest, wow, where is the brown box room, nobody throws their boxes away, do they?

T18
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2X.?

Tom E
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Wrathbringer27 wrote:
What's to the right of the M24 ?

The MaxToch 2X I believe...

Dunno - just snapped a few pics around the room the other night. Oh, more:

 

 

Bout 2 1/2 years ago, not much changed, less lights:

See all those white stickers on the edge of the shelf above? This are from all the Shockers I modded.

T18
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That HF bench vise is pretty good for the price, I’ve lost my rubber things that were worthless anyhow, just keeping up the maintenance at your house would be a full time job.
Edit: Speaking of vise, I put my MH20 head in the freezer last night, bench vise ready to go, darn glue, would have forgot had I not seen that vise.. Thanks

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I keep moving/reorganizing all my stuff==the keepers—for sale etc—the other day my wife was in the space bath dressing area—I said wait be careful there’s flashlight parts in there

unknown00101
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Tom E wrote:

Sane?




Jeez Louise is that the Boss 1 down below on the bottom right? What a chunk.
Tom E
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Oh, yeahhhh. the BOSS man. You know, sometimes you can find stuff in a picture you couldn't find when searching... smile 

I had it out to take a throw #. Still up there, 649 kcd at 5m, but I've gotten well over 700 at 10+ meters with tuning.

 

Edit: Added wall beamshots to the OP of my review: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/50502.

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Wow Tom. That all looks orsm. I even love the fact that you have a book on XML’s on your shelf. That is hardcore. Smile

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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MRsDNF wrote:
Wow Tom. That all looks orsm. I even love the fact that you have a book on XML's on your shelf. That is hardcore. :-)

Thus used to be my home office - I used to work in there 7 days a week, 10-12 hrs/day. The books are all pretty much out dated, many I threw away to make room. Still working with XML today though, but C#/.NET wrap the details pretty well now. Used to be you had to know that stuff cold. I've had lots of contract gigs over the years, lots of different markets and technologies - wasn't easy to keep up.

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So, what do you use the candle warmer for?

It’s funny, my office looks nothing like that. Even if I count all the Alkaline cheapies in my cars I’m probably under 25 lights total, and I only have about 4-6 batteries (toolpack pulls) that aren’t in a light.

The clear L6 really stands out in your pics.

Sorry to Haikelite for getting off topic

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Tom E
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Candle warmer? You mean mug warmer? The mug warmer is my official PCB reflow surface - nice 80-100C or so temp to bring the PCB up to temp before reflowing. An EE friend gave it to me because he no longer uses it - he got a temp settable skillet that can do bigger boards and has better control of heat. He's been doing this stuff a lot longer than me, knows a lot more than me for sure - he's in to ham radio, rocketry (the big ones), doing side work like designing answering machines, etc., so does a lot of proto and small run work. 

I'm to blame for the side track'n frown. Think we had a thread or two a ways back on home bench setups, but when the subject of sanity came up, had to post the insane pics I just took laughing.

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Tom E wrote:

Candle warmer? You mean mug warmer? The mug warmer is my official PCB reflow surface – nice 80-100C or so temp to bring the PCB up to temp before reflowing.


I think I’ve seen them used as both candle warmers and mug warmers, but I guess that’s semantics lol.
I’ve seen those at thrift stores and wondered about them. Does pre-heating help in some way? If so, is it still beneficial on double-sided boards with components on the bottom?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Yes, but I typically reflow directly on the mug warmer, but usually give it a minute or so of pre-heat. It definitely effects the quality of the solder joint you will get. I'm no expert but look a little down on this page for "Insufficient Wetting" here: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/common-problems.

Some great basic info there. I used to buy my solder paste from a ham radio hobbyist who prepared needles with the good solder paste, and sell them to other hobbyists for a reasonable price. I explained to him basically what I/we do with flashlights and he was interested. I sent pics of the boards reflowed, and he picked it up right away, based on how the solder joints looked - he pointed out I was not providing heat to the boards. Since then, I asked around with the tech and EE's I work with and they all use some sort of means to heat the PCB prior to reflow, and of course all commercial shops do.

So will it work without heat? Most of the time, sure. Are you getting a proper solder joint? Probably not, and the trained eye can spot it easy.

 

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I think I was getting away with it because I was using an embossing gun (which pushes a wide stream and heats up a little slowly) and usually I heat from the bottom of the board if I can. I should have a proper reflow gun coming this Christmas though, so I’ll probably grab one of those warmers too.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

qandeel
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Tom E wrote:
Oh, more:


 

Hey Tom, what is that green box where all those colorful 18650 batteries are stored?

 عُمَانْ

Tom E
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Shotgun shell case - ways back someone, maybe Dale, pointed it out - little pricey.Holds mostly pack pull cells. The other smaller one behind the iPad is also for shotgun shells. Bought them from an online retailer - maybe search here on BLF - can't recall where...

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Texas_Ace wrote:
You do need to follow basic lithium handling protocols naturally but even these are blown out of proportion IMHO. I have taken apart hundreds of Battery packs, many of them 10-20 years old with unknown hundreds of cycles on them. Virtually none of them with balance charging.
I don’t believe this for a minute. No remotely responsible manufacturer charges Li-Ion cells in series without charge balancing. You’re to need to be much more specific about these packs. Laptops most certainly use charge balancing and cell monitoring. Electric and hybrid cars use charge balancing and cell monitoring. The RC folks use charge balancing. Please cite specific examples of all these packs without charge balancing.
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Stereodude wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
You do need to follow basic lithium handling protocols naturally but even these are blown out of proportion IMHO. I have taken apart hundreds of Battery packs, many of them 10-20 years old with unknown hundreds of cycles on them. Virtually none of them with balance charging.
I don’t believe this for a minute. No remotely responsible manufacturer charges Li-Ion cells in series without charge balancing. You’re to need to be much more specific about these packs. Laptops most certainly use charge balancing and cell monitoring. Electric and hybrid cars use charge balancing and cell monitoring. The RC folks use charge balancing. Please cite specific examples of all these packs without charge balancing.

Drill battery packs didn’t use balance charging for the many years. This is why the drill battery packs were so unreliable for so many years.

Although I did overestimate the number that didn’t have balance charging. After awhile you stop taking notice of things like that and just get into a routine, grab the pack, twist it till it breaks, pull out the cells, take voltage readings, dispose or clean up and keep the cells. Repeat for the next 6 hours.

After awhile you tend to not notice anything except that your fingers hurt real bad and you should really address those cuts. lol

I have pulled apart quite a few packs that only had electrical connections at the end of the series of cells and nothing in the middle.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
Drill battery packs didn’t use balance charging for the many years. This is why the drill battery packs were so unreliable for so many years.

Well, cordless tools have generally used NiCD or some cases NiMH packs. Li-Ion packs weren’t on tools 20 years ago. Further, many tools that do have Li-Ion packs more recently have used high current safe chemistry sells like the A123 variety which may not need charge balancing.
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Stereodude wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Drill battery packs didn’t use balance charging for the many years. This is why the drill battery packs were so unreliable for so many years.
Well, cordless tools have generally used NiCD or some cases NiMH packs. Li-Ion packs weren’t on tools 20 years ago. Further, many tools that do have Li-Ion packs more recently have used high current safe chemistry sells like the A123 variety which may not need charge balancing.

I have never seen a drill with A123 cells, heard about them but never seen them. The drill manufactures swapped to Lithium but used the same battery setup as nicd for a long time (aka, no balance charging).

I never said these packs were 20 years old, I said I have opened laptop packs that are that old and didn’t have balancing. I used to care when I first started pulling them apart and noted things.

I also have home made battery packs that have a lot of use without balancing with very little divergence.

The end point is none of this matters for flashlights, they are not charged in series anyways. I was simply stating that the balance issue is not as bad as some make it out to be from my experiance.

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Texas_Ace wrote:

The end point is none of this matters for flashlights, they are not charged in series anyways. I was simply stating that the balance issue is not as bad as some make it out to be from my experiance.

I’m learning a lot here. Thanks TA and Stereodude. Just a detail to add here: I do believe charging in series does happen with flashlights. For example Lumintop SD75 (2S2P), and Nitecore MH41 (2S). I have been wondering for a long time whether unbalanced charging of lithium ion occurs with products such as portable vacuum cleaners etc…

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Yes, in some lights they charge in series but lets just say that people that use internal charging doesn’t really care about the cells anyways. I have yet to see an internal charging system I truly trust or feel like waiting on.

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