Keygos KE-5 5 mode XM-L

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old4570
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Keygos KE-5 5 mode XM-L

 

 

Description From Seller on Ebay 

 

  • Output bright can come to above 1300 lumens [lm]
  • Model of LED: CREE XM-L T6 LED
  • Internal wiring applies the high efficient booster circuit, working voltage is wide and can utilize the batteries in the largest extent.
  • Waterproofing design
  • Material: High quality 6061T Aluminium.
  • Aluminum alloy reflector
  • Neon end tail On/Off button 
  • 5 switch Mode: high / middle / low / strobe / sos
  • Power by : 1 x 18650 3.7v
  • Colour : Black 
  • Size(mm):151 x 45(bezel)/23(body) 
  • Weight : 134g


















Now in all fairness the Keygos KE-5 is a nice light , I picked mine up VIA Ebay and payed some $16.50 shipped for it .  At this price the Keygos is just a bargain , 

Well anodized and finished 
Well cut threads 
O rings for all joins 
No battery slop
Tailstands
Smooth Reflector
Handles 18700
Clicky feels solid
Glass lens [ Thin so be careful ] 
Wrist strap [ Usual cheap stuff ]
Fast Mode Momory
Low Frequency PWM
Mode Order - High - Medium - Low - Strobe - SOS  

Well , I wasnt expecting this nice a light for $16.50 , and the usual rate is some $25 , and at $25 I would still say if this sample is the norm , its a good buy . 

Now I didnt know quite what to expect in regard to performance , and the results are a little mixed but for me in a good sort of way , 

Performance:

Now I did try several 18650 and most did , High - 2A , Med - 0.95A , Low - 0.1A , the Callies 2250 did a little better with 2.48A - High , 1.05A - Med , 0.11A for Low .
Now when I went to the light box , things did not add up ...

High - 620L , Med - 300L , Low - 30L , 

Now at nearly 2.5A I was expecting more OTF Lumen , so removing the tailcap and just doing a short I got over 800L , so the tailcap is costing us some 200L of output .  I expect what is happening is the driver is sensitive to resistance , and the clicky switch offers just enough to lower output , and current draw .
Funny thing was , I tried half a dozen batteries and the output was just over 600 with each [ 620 ish ] 
In the last picture you will see the clicky switch , and I added some solder to the contacts to try and improve contact for more current , it only just worked a little as output increased to about 660 - 670 .

Now I did test for throw @ 1Meter :

And the Keygos did some 20,000 Lux @ 1Meter on High , 9400Lux on Medium , and 1000Lux on Low , Comparing that to the Trustfire X9 which did some 33,000Lux @ 1Meter on High .

Conclusion:

I look forward to using the Keygos as much as possible in the next few weeks , and for the money paid , I cant say Im disappointed in any shape or form ATM . Its too bad the driver is so sensitive , as it looks to be not so easy to replace , sure it can be done , but you'l have to work for it  . 

 Personally I can live with it the way it is , 600+ OTF is plenty , 20,000Lux = decent throw and medium and low offer good working levels , in fact Im impressed with low , very sensible . At around 30L and 0.1A current draw , it will run a long time and put out usable light , and if you check out the specifications on size , you will note the Keygos is not overly large , in fact may fit many pockets , drop into the pockets of my Cargo Pants with room to spare . 

There is quite a bit of competition in the $25 price range , and the C10 - C8 - C2 lights with various brands printed on them come to mind as well as several others , and I have to say that the Keygos has delivered value for money . But the only question , for me , is how does it directly compare to the other lights in this price range ? 

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

JohnnyMac
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Nice review, Matt. Have you tried replacing the switch with another? It could be the switch is just crappy and has too much internal resistance.
old4570
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JohnnyMac wrote:
Nice review, Matt. Have you tried replacing the switch with another? It could be the switch is just crappy and has too much internal resistance.

 

No time ATM , Took a sicky from school , bit of flue or something ?  But will be on the cards that's for sure 

Got a bit of stuff in the mail today ..  Its a bit of a struggle to post , when you dont feel so great .  

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

JohnnyMac
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Sorry to hear that. Hope you feel better soon. Smile
VFMaddict
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Look, this is off the wall but could it be that its not the switch at all?    The driver looks to be a press fit only.   No solder or if there is solder then its only a microscopic amount in the driver/pill gap.   (I wonder if all KE5's are unsoldered?)   Anyway, could it be that you pressed harder or at an angle with your test lead causing better driver/pill contact than the tailspring does?     

"You are making progress if each mistake you make is a new one."

Remember - Most great discoveries start with maki

ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS
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I bought mine from redlog on ebay for like $25.  I just bought my son one as well.  That is still my favorite flashlight I own with maybe the exception of the TR-1200 which is the better thrower.  Mine burns at about 3.5 amps with Trustfire flame 18650 fully charged. 

Don't know how many lumens it truly puts out, but I wouldn't doubt that it's above 700 lumens very easily. 

old4570
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Cant hurt to put some solder in there , will see as time permits , maybe Wednesday . 

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS
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Here's what my brass pill looks like.

ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS
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Mine will throw a good 400yds.  That's about 360yds or so to that white barn with a vehicle parked in front of it. 

ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS
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ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS
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The vehicle that is lit up at the end of the beam and you can see a white barn if you look. 

ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS
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Those poles are about 100yds or maybe 110yds apart.  I just stepped it off to the barn from where I took that photo from and I got right at 440yds.  Take off the 40yds for my discrepency and I would bet money it's 400yds almost exactly.  But I do have a 200ft tape measure I guess I could tape measure the distance.   

lakemonster1
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thinking about ordering one of these.  how on par to the solarforce lights would you say the threads of this light are?  bad threads are my pet peeve.  i can handle scratches, uneven finish, but if the threads look like they were cut with a pipe threader from a discount tool store, i can't handle it.

ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS
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Buy that light from redlog on ebay and you should be tickled. 

ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS
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gen1.3_
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ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS wrote:

Here's what my brass pill looks like.

looks like you have a different driver than the one I have (Same as olds). I also get the same tailcap readings as old. At 3.5A it must get hot fast.

VFMaddict
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gen1.3_ wrote:

ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS wrote:

Here's what my brass pill looks like.

looks like you have a different driver than the one I have (Same as olds). I also get the same tailcap readings as old. At 3.5A it must get hot fast.

Is your soldered like ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS's is or is it unsoldered like old's?

 

 

 

"You are making progress if each mistake you make is a new one."

Remember - Most great discoveries start with maki

old4570
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I put some solder on mine = no difference .  

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

VFMaddict
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That's a shame.   Back to the drawing board (pun intended...lol).

"You are making progress if each mistake you make is a new one."

Remember - Most great discoveries start with maki

Ian2381
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It looks like the Keygos is also a lottery, the driver on mine is the green one not Black.

I Just swapped a Neutral XML on mine and will replace the driver with the KD 2.8A driver. This light is really putting out a tight hot spot equivalent to my X9 @ 1meter. Will be comparing both lights once I replaced the KE5 with the KD driver.

ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS
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Ok I just charged my Trustfire battery to fully charged and took a tailcap reading.  It started at 3.55 amps and tapered down to 3.05 amps and stopped.  Maybe mine is just hotter.  I don't know but I think this one puts out some lumens. 

ballard
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Doesn't the tailcap reading merely give you to battery draw, not the amount of power the driver is pushing out? Or is it safe to assume these numbers are similar, even without knowing the individual driver's specs?

Hikelite
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Ian2381 wrote:

I Just swapped a Neutral XML on mine and will replace the driver with the KD 2.8A driver. This light is really putting out a tight hot spot equivalent to my X9 @ 1meter. Will be comparing both lights once I replaced the KE5 with the KD driver.

Looking forward to that!

Which neutral have you bought?

jacktheclipper
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Welcome ballard .

Looking forward to the answer to your question .

fishmaniac
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ballard wrote:

Doesn't the tailcap reading merely give you to battery draw, not the amount of power the driver is pushing out? Or is it safe to assume these numbers are similar, even without knowing the individual driver's specs?

Power? As in total watts? Amps x volts = Watts. So yes, you get the current as well as the total power from doing tailcap readings.

Hikelite
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I think he wants to know the power to the LED. Not the IN but the OUT from the driver. Driver efficiency plays a role there.

ballard
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That's exactly what I meant, Hik, and thanks for the warm welcome VFMaddict and Jack.

We can tell that the emitter is correct, and we can clean up the contact points, mod the springs, etc. to deal with resistance throughout the light. So, the great unknown here is what is going on in the driver (I am ignoring, for the moment, losses from the lens and reflector). Since this is an ebay knockoff, I will be curious if I got one that feeds the emitter 2.2 amps or 3.2 amps. Since cheap drivers are often inefficient, the power given from the driver to the LED could be considerably lower than the power given from the battery to the driver. So, theoretically we should be testing the leads into the LED, if possible. However, I am a flashlight and electrical newcomer, and maybe driver inefficiency is relatively insignificant? If the driver is inefficient, and drawing significantly more power from the batteries than feeding to the emitter, we would now be losing lumens without gaining runtime.

Of course, I may just be over thinking this. I am waiting to receive the EK5, and can't stop myself from over analyzing it because I am impatient.

how2
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ballard you are over analyzing far too much. Don't be worry be happy Smile

ballard
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But then I would just be sitting back and patiently waiting for my new gizmo to show up like a responsible adult... No, that won't do at all. Thanks for the advice though. However, I am happy.

old4570
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One can simply accept that there will be driver loss ..

DD is often not so bad ..

But there are other variables to consider : if you want to get into the nitty gritty ...

the vF of the emitter , V out of the driver = over volting the Emitter may can affect output

if you have a driver that put's out 3.65v and an emitter with a vF of 3.25v

and you have another driver that's 3.5v out and the emitter is 3.55 vF

and both run the same current ...  obviously there will be variation ..

With limited test equipment , it becomes difficult to really be 100%  ...

Best to accept ball park figures , and be happy ...

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

jacktheclipper
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Ballard , analyze all you want . We love to get bogged down in minutia here .

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