Utorch 1x AA 500+ Lumen Review

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kzb
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Thanks joechina I’ll try that tonight and report how I get on with it.

Hopefully when I get home some 14500 cells will have been delivered….

Streamer
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From off, just hold your power switch down and count to ten or less. It will blink once or it will blink twice depending on which mode driver is in. This is how you get between program mode and regular modes.

You want to see two blinks to enter program mode. Once there then do the double click and cycle through to adjust Low, Med, High, Turbo

kramer5150
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kzb wrote:
kramer5150 wrote:
Nice Matt… Just watched your vid, good job as always.

To enter the program mode double tap it from either ON or OFF.
It will strobe, but just single tap it a few times to cycle past the blinky modes:
Strobe-SOS-beacon-100% Turbo-Battery check-*PROGRAM*

The Program mode will look like firefly, but just let it sit there and it will cycle through the three outputs for each:
Firefly – LO/MED/HI (tap the setting you want)
Low – LO/MED/HI (tap the setting you want)
Med – LO/MED/HI (tap the setting you want)
Hi – LO/MED/TURBO (tap the setting you want)

When you finish, just double tap to lock the settings.

I tried this several times and it doesn’t work with mine. It just goes through the blinky modes then starts the cycle again.

So far I have used NiMH battery only, does the Program mode only work with 14500?

There was one time I tried to re-program mine with a fairly depleted NiMH and it would not program. I forget exactly what it did though. I useda fully charged 14500 and it worked just I describe above. So, with a fully charged and healthy NiMH it should work just the same as a 14500.

stevens02
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Is this a re-branded Manker E11? Just wondering.

Pistonsandgears
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I believe it was cloned, not built by Manker. Although some of them seem to have the Manker brand on the internal components.
I have Xtar 14500 in mine and they fit fine. I haven’t tested run times. Mine had the bad switch also, the only thing gearbest would offer to do was a 50% refund, that was after they first offered a $3 refund.

kzb
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Streamer wrote:
From off, just hold your power switch down and count to ten or less. It will blink once or it will blink twice depending on which mode driver is in. This is how you get between program mode and regular modes.

You want to see two blinks to enter program mode. Once there then do the double click and cycle through to adjust Low, Med, High, Turbo

Yes this works for me. Except I don’t think I’ve accessed the battery check.
So this method works with NiMH cell, at least to re-program the levels.
I was unable to discern any variation in the highest level though.

Still no Xtar 14500 batteries arrived. The flashlight arrived from China quicker than this.

Streamer
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kzb wrote:
Streamer wrote:
From off, just hold your power switch down and count to ten or less. It will blink once or it will blink twice depending on which mode driver is in. This is how you get between program mode and regular modes.

You want to see two blinks to enter program mode. Once there then do the double click and cycle through to adjust Low, Med, High, Turbo

Yes this works for me. Except I don’t think I’ve accessed the battery check.
So this method works with NiMH cell, at least to re-program the levels.
I was unable to discern any variation in the highest level though.

Still no Xtar 14500 batteries arrived. The flashlight arrived from China quicker than this.

The NIMH will not show variation in the highest level in my sample also. Normal, I should think, as the NIMH is probably not quite capable of the highet Turbo amperage that the driver demands. So it falls slightly short in that capacity.

However, the 14500’s should give you the flawless mode performance we all desire. Wink

ETA: The programing modes are in this order. Strobe, sos, beacon, full turbo, battery check, and LMHT adjust mode. Full battery in battery check mode will give you 4 blinks. As battery discharges =‘s fewer blinks etc

JPLight
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Most NIMH batteries do not provide the amps needed. I tried a few and the only ones of mine that work fine are eneloop (the white ones with blue printed name on it).

HorizontalHunter
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Pistonsandgears wrote:
Mine had the bad switch also, the only thing gearbest would offer to do was a 50% refund, that was after they first offered a $3 refund.

Thats ridiculous.

Did you pay via PayPal or a CC?

Bob

Vegetarian: vejiˈte(ə)rēən/noun: old Indian word for lousy hunter.

Pistonsandgears
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HorizontalHunter wrote:
Pistonsandgears wrote:
Mine had the bad switch also, the only thing gearbest would offer to do was a 50% refund, that was after they first offered a $3 refund.

Thats ridiculous.

Did you pay via PayPal or a CC?

Bob

Yeah that’s what I thought too. Apparently returning a defective item for a refund is not an option either, at least not one they offered me. I may try and get the credit back through paypal instead.

Streamer
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Hopefully buyer used PayPal. File with PayPal and I’ll bet they change their tune. Wink

They sent you a defective item. PayPal will be on your side. Total refund.

HorizontalHunter
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Pistonsandgears wrote:

Yeah that’s what I thought too. Apparently returning a defective item for a refund is not an option either, at least not one they offered me. I may try and get the credit back through paypal instead.

I would. You bought a brand new item. Besides, itjust emboldens them to do it to others.

Bob

Vegetarian: vejiˈte(ə)rēən/noun: old Indian word for lousy hunter.

kramer5150
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kzb wrote:
Streamer wrote:
From off, just hold your power switch down and count to ten or less. It will blink once or it will blink twice depending on which mode driver is in. This is how you get between program mode and regular modes.

You want to see two blinks to enter program mode. Once there then do the double click and cycle through to adjust Low, Med, High, Turbo

Yes this works for me. Except I don’t think I’ve accessed the battery check.
So this method works with NiMH cell, at least to re-program the levels.
I was unable to discern any variation in the highest level though.

Still no Xtar 14500 batteries arrived. The flashlight arrived from China quicker than this.

Thats a sign of a depleted or well-used NiMH… that can’t deliver enough voltage under heavy load. On my lights there is a slight but noticeable difference between turbo and my next highest level. Its most visible on a ceiling bounce or outdoors. But then again, it needs a fully charged / healthy eneloop to achieve this.

kzb
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joechina wrote:
I posted what I’ve collected about protected cells here http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1093695#comment-1093695

A Xstar should work

Two Xtar Protected cells finally arrived.

Tried one in Utorch straight away. No response. Light does not work at all.

Tried the other cell, same result.

Charged both cells, tried again with both and still no joy.

Flashlight still operates fine on NiMH, but it refuses to do anything with the Xtar 14500’s. What gives?

joechina
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Have you tried without the tailcap while bridging tube and battery with a wire?

HorizontalHunter
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joechina wrote:
Have you tried without the tailcap while bridging tube and battery with a wire?

This. The cells may be too long and preventing the contact between the end cap and the flashlight body. This would interrupt, or break, the circuit.

Bob

Vegetarian: vejiˈte(ə)rēən/noun: old Indian word for lousy hunter.

joechina
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If the light turns on try the paperclip trick.

mrstealyourgains
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My UT01 just arrived, and it’s very impressive for 1xAA. I really like the mode selection and it’s enormously bright on high even with just a AA. I ordered a 14500, so I’ll let you guys know how that works out when it arrives.

kzb
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HorizontalHunter wrote:
joechina wrote:
Have you tried without the tailcap while bridging tube and battery with a wire?

This. The cells may be too long and preventing the contact between the end cap and the flashlight body. This would interrupt, or break, the circuit.

Bob

This is what I am worried about. The Xtar protected 14500 cell IS marginally longer than the NiMH cell that DOES work.

I have tried screwing the tail cap down as hard as I dare. To me, it seems to screw all the way down.

Anyhow, there is no switch in the tail cap. Is it not just a spring contact, or is there more to it than that?

joechina
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There should be only a pcb and springs.

Please try briding the end and switching it on.
As your NiMH works it should light up.

If it does bend a wire e.g. from a paperclip to a ring bending around the battery. Put that ring in the cap.
Use a copper paperclip (lower resistance) steel works too

kzb
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I could try briding the cell contacts and the spring I suppose. I will try it tonight.

But the cells charged OK on the charger (indicator light changed when fully charged) so it seems like it shouldn’t have a coating on or anything. It +looks +clean. I have two cells and neither works.

The fact that NiMH cells work means the flashlight contacts should be clean?

The Xtar is sold as an AA-sized protected 14500. It is a little longer than AA but only marginally.

I hesitate to buy unprotected 14500’s could be more money wasted.

joechina
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Yes, the contacts in the lamp should be clean.

As I’ve read the Xtar is 1mm longer and a gab is a gab even at 0.001mm.

Joe

Streamer
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*Quote kzb:*

"This is what I am worried about. The Xtar protected 14500 cell IS marginally longer than the NiMH cell that DOES work. I have tried screwing the tail cap down as hard as I dare. To me, it seems to screw all the way down. Anyhow, there is no switch in the tail cap. Is it not just a spring contact, or is there more to it than that?"

Look inside your tailcap. See that gold colored ring at the base? Now look at the end of the battery tube. See that silver shiny ring at its end? Those two surfaces have to touch to complete circuit.

You may think it's screwed all the way down, but with a longer cell the tailcap contact ring may NOT be making complete contact with the silver shiny battery tube contact.  This is because a battery that is too long for the tube will not permit the tailcap ring to contact the tubes shiny ring. 

SIGShooter
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kzb wrote:
I could try briding the cell contacts and the spring I suppose. I will try it tonight.

But the cells charged OK on the charger (indicator light changed when fully charged) so it seems like it shouldn’t have a coating on or anything. It +looks +clean. I have two cells and neither works.

The fact that NiMH cells work means the flashlight contacts should be clean?

The Xtar is sold as an AA-sized protected 14500. It is a little longer than AA but only marginally.

I hesitate to buy unprotected 14500’s could be more money wasted.


The failure to work with protected 14500’s was reported quite a while back and is a known feature (I wouldn’t even call it a defect since the light was built that way).
HorizontalHunter
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Streamer wrote:

Quote kzb:


“This is what I am worried about. The Xtar protected 14500 cell IS marginally longer than the NiMH cell that DOES work. I have tried screwing the tail cap down as hard as I dare. To me, it seems to screw all the way down. Anyhow, there is no switch in the tail cap. Is it not just a spring contact, or is there more to it than that?”


Look inside your tailcap. See that gold colored ring at the base? Now look at the end of the battery tube. See that silver shiny ring at its end? Those two surfaces have to touch to complete circuit.


You may think it’s screwed all the way down, but with a longer cell the tailcap contact ring may NOT be making complete contact with the silver shiny battery tube contact.  This is because a battery that is too long for the tube will not permit the tailcap ring to contact the tubes shiny ring. 

The threads are anodized black which is non-conductive.

When I started in this hobby I started with protected batteries but came to learn that you really don’t need protected batteries in single cell flashlights. In real life when the battery gets low and the light gets dim you change it before it is fully depleted. I no longer use protected batteries in my multi cell lights either. I do date my batteries when I buy them and keep sets together for my multi battery lights.

I have two unprotected Efest 14500 batteries charged and waiting for my Utorch to come in.

Bob

Vegetarian: vejiˈte(ə)rēən/noun: old Indian word for lousy hunter.

Streamer
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The threads may be anodized black, but the end of the battery tube is NOT. If it were, the torch would not light.

r3crac
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Nice one

Current Gearbest deals: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52142

HorizontalHunter
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Streamer wrote:
The threads may be anodized black, but the end of the battery tube is NOT. If it were, the torch would not light.

Yes.

He only has 21 posts so I just wanted make sure that he knew that the anodizing on the threads isn’t conductive.

Bob

Vegetarian: vejiˈte(ə)rēən/noun: old Indian word for lousy hunter.

Streamer
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HorizontalHunter wrote:

Yes. He only has 21 posts so I just wanted make sure that he knew that the anodizing on the threads isn’t conductive.

Bob

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kzb
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Streamer wrote:

Quote kzb:


“This is what I am worried about. The Xtar protected 14500 cell IS marginally longer than the NiMH cell that DOES work. I have tried screwing the tail cap down as hard as I dare. To me, it seems to screw all the way down. Anyhow, there is no switch in the tail cap. Is it not just a spring contact, or is there more to it than that?”


Look inside your tailcap. See that gold colored ring at the base? Now look at the end of the battery tube. See that silver shiny ring at its end? Those two surfaces have to touch to complete circuit.


You may think it’s screwed all the way down, but with a longer cell the tailcap contact ring may NOT be making complete contact with the silver shiny battery tube contact.  This is because a battery that is too long for the tube will not permit the tailcap ring to contact the tubes shiny ring. 

Thanks everyone, I had a look at it last night and I realise what you are on about. The only point of contact between the tube and the tailcap contact is the unanodised end surface of the tube. If the battery is a fraction too long it won’t make contact.

So at this point in the story, the working hypothesis is that Xtar Protected 14500 cells are in fact too long.

Possibly I could get it to work with a ring of copper wire or paperclip made into a ring to fit between the battery tube and the tailcap contact. Or ideally a copper or brass washer of the right size, if I could find one, I guess.

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