What do you have, flat tops or button tops? If flats, shrink wrap a second layer on the cells. They have to make the light so even a protected cell will fit. Protected cells not only have two shrink layers, but a copper strip running up the side and the extra length of a protection circuit.
Another thing you can do if they are flats, put a solder blob on top of each cell along with an extra shrink wrap. That will compress the springs a touch more.
My batts have solder blobs. I figured I would end up putting a second wrap layer. I guess that's a choice I need to make, dedicated batts. As much as I don't want too.
Oh, wait. The 30Q's are single layer. There shouldn't be an issue with another wrap not fitting in the rest of my lights. OK, that's what I will do.
Hello Gaston. I clarified the comment above to "better machined" It is smoother, and flows. The comparison photos are just that, so others can have a visual. Yes, they are both nice lights.
I have concerns with the reflector of the M24. I feel it is flawed. Because of the fragmentation it projects from and around the hot spot.
Looks like shattered glass somewhat. I think maybe it got passed quality control.
Excuse me, I did not mean to offend, maybe the dedom left some rest, are you sure it affects the long range vision? I have a uniquefire 1504, with led xp-g2 dedom, short distance on a wall has rings and lots of defects, almost orrorous but in distance is not very significant, greetings! And excuse my English, I use a translator.
No No. I did not take offense. I have not tried the light long range yet. Batteries on charger now for topping off. I hope to test tonight!
The MaxToch is new to me. I compare quality of reflector (M24) to other lights I have for quality and smoothness. This is why I see it as a defect like broken glass. The LED looks OK.
In the Eagletac you have a domed led, in the M24 you have a dedomed led. A domed led will always have a better Hotspot due to the dome smoothing out any artifacts around the led. With a dedomed led there is no dome to smooth out any of the artifacts, whether they are in the reflector or leftover silicone from the dedoming process. I’ve owned both of the lights that you have and can say they are both great lights. If artifacts are a concern, a XP-L HI may suit you a little better in the M24…if it were mine I’d leave the dedomed led in as it’ll throw circles around a XP-L HI.
I saw that you had the M24, and sold it not too long ago.
The M24 is new to me, entirely. The tint is yellow compared to the other lights XP-L Hi, I have. I'm not saying that's a bad thing. I need to experience the warmths for my likings. I read and have been told that the U3 is an excellent performing LED for a thrower. I heard about the same light with XP-L Hi as well. I sum it up to personal preference to the eye of the user. We all do not see the same spectrums. I do know that I like the de-domed LEDs for output down range. Once the M24/U4 version gets sorted out, I plan on getting that one as well. Hurry up MaxToch!! LOL. If my issue with artifacts at close distance, does not affect long range, I'm good with that. I realize this kind of light is not meant for performing at close distances. I just need to convince my way of thinking for what my eyes see as not normal. Being in the trade where the hair of a gnats butt, is daily tolerance, I have tendency to complain and judge. And part OCD. HA!!
Well something just happened. With batts fully charged I was outside comparing the beams of the M24 and M25C2. The M24 went out after about 3 minutes and would not turn on again.
I changed the batteries over to the M25C2, and they work fine.
Tail cap off and test continuity, neg to batt/pos to batt tube=OK
Clicky on/off continuity=OK
I removed the batt tube to test driver=Not OK
I don't know if I should gain access to the driver, to test that or not. I don't want to void the warranty.
Also check to make sure that the tail cap retaining ring is tight. They can come loose when changing cells. Check driver ring as well. I had a light do that to me