Allow me.
The HT08 is a total design failure.
First you’re confronted with a high - strobe - SOS group, and no manual as to how switch groups.
Member freeme posted you have to half press 5 times to change groups.
This sometimes works, but i still don’t know what i did to get it to 3 modes (low - high mid - high)
But that’s just the driver, and once you manage to get it into the preferred group it’s okay.
So how about the rest then?
Well, the tail cap threadings have a lot of play, reminiscent of cheap C8 lights.
Not anodized, but that’s not a problem in itself i.m.o.
The rubber switch button is mushy, there’s too much distance between it and the switch, but it works okay.
The lens has a really big focal distance, so it catches relatively little light when focussed.
But maybe some would prefer it like that, because it will give a tight beam.
As a consequence the head has to be able to travel a long distance from flood to tight beam.
On a positive note, the lens almost touches the LED when in widest flood position, making it a very wide flood.
But what happens when you focus to full collimation?
This is where all is wrong…
The inside of the head is a narrow threaded tube.
As a result, only 30% (estimated) 50% of the lens is used, only the centre of the lens receives light from the LED.
This is because the head is narrow on the inside all the way.
I consider this a major design failure.
More annoyance:
Rings.
I think it’s because the threads inside the head, which are shiny from the lubricant.
You get rings projected in most head positions.
Solutions?
Well, first you’ll have to remove the retaining ring right behind the lens.
Probably by drilling 2 holes in it and unscrewing it with needle nose pliers.
Then you can screw down the head further until it’s unscrewed from the main body tube.
if you want to be able to use the whole lens when focussed, you’re gonna have to grind away a lot of aluminium to get a conical shape inside the head.
You’re probably gonna have to be careful too with how much you remove, because the top cooling groove in the head is very deep.
If you get it right, you won’t be able to screw the head to the widest flood anymore, because you just removed some of the inner threads inside the head…
Good luck y’all.