[MOD] Armytek Wizard Pro XHP50- Driver Efficiency Measurement

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clemence
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[MOD] Armytek Wizard Pro XHP50- Driver Efficiency Measurement

I've been really curious why AT use 12V configured XHP50 rather than 6V. From performance stand point, it's an inefficient route. Boosting from 3-4,2 V to 11-12V. The short runtime and heat produced confirm to this inefficiency.

Things get worse in it's Prime variant. Prime Pro now use XHP5 which by design is even less efficient than XHP50. And I assume AT uses the same driver for both.

 

Below is the chart from my DIY measurement. Couldn't measure anything reliably lower than Main 2 because of my DMM current reading limitation (no sensitivity below 0,1A). As you can see, the efficiency is normal for a boost driver up to Main 3. In Turbo 1 and 2, this Wizard turns into a heater, wasting 40% of the power to heat before it reached the LED!! No wonder it heats up very fast.

At max. power (Turbo 2) the LED only pulls ~1A at 4,2V before gradually lower the output. The driver just can't do sustained boost. This confirms Zak's and Maukka's finding why Wizard Pro and Prime Pro don't live up to the spec (rated at 2300 lumen) outputting only 1500ish OTF lumens. Cross checked with pct.cree.com also confirm this.

 

EDIT: In 6V test the Turbo 1 and 2 modes gave erratic then stayed at much lower output. The highest recorded input was 2,41A @ 4,2V. About half the 12V test (4,44A @ 4,2V). Something is definitely wrong with the driver. Looks like the test procedures damaged it.

 

 

 

As can be seen from the chart above. Boosting to 6V using the same XHP50 LED configured to 6V the driver efficiency increase. But at the expense of much lower output. Only ~0,6A at Turbo 2. More than enough for general uses. But as Zak said, it loses the WOW factor.

I reflowed the same XHP50 on Kerui's XM DTP board.

 

Summary:

  • This is a very good headlamp. Not the easiest one for modification but I proved that Armytek is mod-able. The design and machining is very well built. This is a very strong headlamp unlike others. I really like it for many qualities only Armytek has: The looks, toughness, magnet + charging, new super nice headband (very easy to replace/remove the headlamp when needed).
  • As for the efficiency. Most modes other than the Turbo are perfectly OK. Even the inefficiency in Turbo won't last long, it will switch down to next lower mode automatically due to it's excellent thermal regulation (throttled by the temperature read in the driver board, NOT by the LED temp). This is a fool proof design.
  • If you want a better efficiency in higher output modes, instant fix is to use H1-A or H2-C, depends on what LED you're using. This Wizard will fit 22mm driver with no problem. OEM Armytek use 12V configured XHP50. These drivers already tested by Jensen and their efficiency are very good for such boost drivers.

NOTE: I killed the driver. Dunno, looks like I shorted something unintentionally. Too many clicking with fluctuative input voltage perhaps? The inductor, MCU and e-switch seems to fail now.

- Clemence

Edited by: clemence on 11/14/2017 - 08:33
aginthelaw
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Maybe armytek is monitoring this thread and can provide an answer or give you a job

never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby

The_Driver
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Thanks for the extensive test!
Your wires seem a bit long though. What AWG did you use?

I think in practise it doesn’t matter too much. The Turbo2 mode is not very useful for a headlamp. The runtime is too short and it dims too fast.

zak.wilson has showed that you can use this driver with a 6V Nichia LED and you will get more practical modes (highest mode will be 60min) with higher efficiency (Nichia 144A R9050 @840 otf Lumen for 55-60min).

I agree regarding the Prime Pro XHP-35. I think it would make more sense to keep using a 3V LED. They could just use a higher Bin (XP-L W2) and maybe increase the current to 3.5A to get a bit more brightness.

Could you tell us the designations printed on the ICs on the driver? This could help us understand it better.

clemence
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The_Driver wrote:
Thanks for the extensive test!
Your wires seem a bit long though. What AWG did you use?

I think in practise it doesn’t matter too much. The Turbo2 mode is not very useful for a headlamp. The runtime is too short and it dims too fast.

zak.wilson has showed that you can use this driver with a 6V Nichia LED and you will get more practical modes (highest mode will be 60min) with higher efficiency (Nichia 144A R9050 @840 otf Lumen for 55-60min).

I agree regarding the Prime Pro XHP-35. I think it would make more sense to keep using a 3V LED. They could just use a higher Bin (XP-L W2) and maybe increase the current to 3.5A to get a bit more brightness.

Could you tell us the designations printed on the ICs on the driver? This could help us understand it better.

The original AT wire core was 0,4mm thick. I used 0,8mm core.
Will try to mod it later using the H2C or H1A boost driver from Kaidomain. Wizard will accept up to 22mm driver.
Here’s the clearer picture:

clemence
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OP updated with 6V test

The_Driver
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Your results do not match those of zak.wilson.
He measured an input current of 1.1A on the Turbo1 mode when using a 6V LED. You measured around 0.25A.
On Turbo2 he measured the actual runtime instead (55-60min). This should equate to around 2.8-3A.

His results make more sense to me because they basically show double the runtime compared to the 12V LED.

I wonder why yours are different. The one thing I notice is that your cables are very long. Inside the light they are only 1-2cm.

I also find it quite funny that you want to replace the sophisticated Armytek driver with a cheap & simple Kaidomain driver :). But efficiency is important…

This topic is interesting to me because I recently bought this Wizard to do the same mod that Zak did.

clemence
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The problem with my driver is it showed erratic output by the end of the test. In 6V mode only in one brief moment it showed “correct” result (2,41A in turbo 2). Then it’s more like a lower random output before it finally stopped working.
I will test again using different driver. I had to use long wires, will try to cut it down as much as possible later