Fireflies ROT66 Flashlight

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JasonWW
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I’m reminded of Route 66, the famous road/highway in America.

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ToyKeeper
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I like naming schemes which indicate what the product actually is. ZebraLight is a good example:

  • SC for a standard carry flashlight, or H for a headlamp.
  • 3, 5, 6, or 7 for 16[3]40, 14[5]00, 18[6]50, or 21[7]00 battery.
  • Sometimes a 0 to indicate, um, a different flavor? (a mule headlamp or a slightly larger flashlight)
  • Another digit to indicate the generation number. (usually, but sometimes omitted or 0)
  • Optional F for frosted lens.
  • Optional c, d, or w for high-[C]RI 4000K, high-CRI [d]aylight tint, or a [w]armer-than-default neutral white tint.
  • Optional other suffixes to indicate revision or emitter type, like “Mk IV” or “HI”.

It’s not all completely straightforward, and not all completely consistent. Like, I have no idea why the SC600 series uses “Mk IV” to indicate a 4th generation, unlike the “4” digit used for everything else. And I don’t know why the SC5 lacks a version/generation number entirely. But still, it’s more consistent than most other companies I’ve seen.

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JasonWW wrote:
I’m reminded of Route 66, the famous road/highway in America.

I was about to say that..

Jay
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ToyKeeper wrote:
I have no idea where the name “ROT66” came from. I also have no idea where the name “PL47” came from, but it kinda makes sense… 4 emitters, 7 cm battery, and it’s shaped kinda like the letter P or L.

Periscope Light

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Out for delivery…weeeeeeee. Hehehehe. Wooooohooooo

Awesome. Played with it until my niece swung it round & round until she snapped the lanyard. She’s not talking to me now. The light is brighter than the r9080 version. Slightly greenish but pleasant nonetheless. Super low mode. 3 of the LEDs are brighter than the rest though. Is there a way to turn off the auxiliary LEDs?

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They sometimes use Rota also….
This is Googled from a Gift Shop here in Brazil.

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6 and 8 are numbers that Chinese people like.

66 Everything goes well

88 More and more wealth

Sorry for my poor english.

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aginthelaw wrote:
Out for delivery…weeeeeeee. Hehehehe. Wooooohooooo

Hella nice. Please post your impressions on this light.

SKV89
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steel_1024 wrote:
6 and 8 are numbers that Chinese people like.

66 Everything goes well

88 More and more wealth

How about the Fireflies PLF 47?

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SKV89 wrote:

How about the Fireflies PLF 47?

I don’t have any idea.

You must ask FireFlies.

Smile

Sorry for my poor english.

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aginthelaw wrote:
Is there a way to turn off the auxiliary LEDs?

I think the only way to turn them off is to disconnect the battery. If I understand correctly, the aux LED board is connected directly to the battery, so the attiny cannot control it.

JasonWW
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ToyKeeper wrote:
aginthelaw wrote:
Is there a way to turn off the auxiliary LEDs?

I think the only way to turn them off is to disconnect the battery. If I understand correctly, the aux LED board is connected directly to the battery, so the attiny cannot control it.


Is that the direction that Fireflies went? They didn’t wire it into the MCU controlled side switch light? I guess the easiest way to find out is if the auxiliary lights turn off and on in sync with the switch lights.

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ToyKeeper
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I’ll probably find out on Tuesday. I got a message from DHL about a package arriving that day, and I think it’s from Fireflies.

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People were talking earlier about the ROT66 being sensitive to bumps. I wasn’t able to make mine do anything wrong though, even with fairly short cells installed. Anyway, today my ROT66 fell about 1.5m onto a linoleum floor… and it didn’t even skip a beat. No change at all in the light output, and no visible dents or scratches on it. I’m not sure the floor is completely intact, but the light is totally fine.

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Haven’t been able to make mine shut off from bumps either.

SKV89
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Since I have my ROT66 in front of me. I decided to put it on turbo and hammering it against my palm repeatedly with a lot of force and did not see a single blink. I have the stainless steel tail cap but I doubt that makes any difference at all.

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SKV89 know that you are crazy about the quality of light and that’s why I’m curious what version you chose. What LEDs ?. I think about ROT66 myself, but Nichia is too much under BBL.

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SKV89
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I bought 3 ROT66 with 219B. One for my friend and two for myself since these emitters are supposedly going extinct… I was going to buy an XPL-HI 3A v3 version too but will wait until they get the manufacturing issues fixed on that one.

It really isn’t much rosier than the 5D tint Emisar flashlights that I have. In fact, it’s not even as rosy as the XPG2 in the Enogear AA Stainless Steel. Now I’m so used to it, I don’t even notice it’s rosy. I thought something went wrong with the emitters after too much use. It just looks natural white to me. However when I compare it with my other non A or D tint flashlights, they all look yellow/green. At night, when I use it on natural vegetation, it is the closest to sunlight I’ve seen. I love it!

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These Nichias don’t look rosy— only on max turbo are they rosy looking. They don’t look pink as much as they make other emitters look green.

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SKV89 wrote:
I bought 3 ROT66 with 219B. One for my friend and two for myself since these emitters are supposedly going extinct… I was going to buy an XPL-HI 3A v3 version too but will wait until they get the manufacturing issues fixed on that one.

It really isn’t much rosier than the 5D tint Emisar flashlights that I have. In fact, it’s not even as rosy as the XPG2 in the Enogear AA Stainless Steel. Now I’m so used to it, I don’t even notice it’s rosy. I thought something went wrong with the emitters after too much use. It just looks natural white to me. However when I compare it with my other non A or D tint flashlights, they all look yellow/green. At night, when I use it on natural vegetation, it is the closest to sunlight I’ve seen. I love it!

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SKV89 wrote:
I just got a reply from Jacky regarding the tint bin:
It is SST-20-W40H-A120-J4402(J4-VH-FA3 . The color is yellow , not great

Given this one is FA3 tint, it should be between 4000k-4250k and a good chance of being below the BBL. The one being sold at Kaidomain, which Maukka tested is FB4 tint, which is completely above the BBL and looks at least as good as the 219C according to Maukka; so I wonder why Jacky thinks it looks “not great”.
!https://i.imgur.com/N5l6UJd.png?1!

I can say, that the FB4 tint of SST-20 is already much better than Nichia 219C regarding perceived BBL position.

I have Nichia 219C 4000K in a Lumintop IYP365 penlight, and I have a Jaxman E2L as well with the same LED as comparison.

I just finished a rather simple Convoy S2+ build with TIR lens and a 7 mode driver (10-100%), and I tested it with a 25 degree beaded lens on an evening bike ride. While I still like the tint of 219C 4000K, I can notice, that it is noticeably greener and yellower than the FB4 SST-20. Also, I can ‘feel’ the slightly better spectrum coverage of the latter.

I have also 4×E21A 4000K from Clemence in a Skilhunt H03 – that felt me a little bit warmer, and it has a slight further extra ‘touch of’ deep red, but FB4 SST-20 is already very good in deep red.

SKV89
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Newlumen wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
I bought 3 ROT66 with 219B. One for my friend and two for myself since these emitters are supposedly going extinct… I was going to buy an XPL-HI 3A v3 version too but will wait until they get the manufacturing issues fixed on that one.

It really isn’t much rosier than the 5D tint Emisar flashlights that I have. In fact, it’s not even as rosy as the XPG2 in the Enogear AA Stainless Steel. Now I’m so used to it, I don’t even notice it’s rosy. I thought something went wrong with the emitters after too much use. It just looks natural white to me. However when I compare it with my other non A or D tint flashlights, they all look yellow/green. At night, when I use it on natural vegetation, it is the closest to sunlight I’ve seen. I love it!

Can I be your friend?

lol. Basically I have a few friends that got inspired by my flashlight collection and whenever I see something super interesting, I let them know and see if they want to buy it. If they do, they just pay me back the cash and they can avoid the hassle dealing with the online transaction. This friend who just got the ROT66 219B is a 5700k fan. He seems to like the 4500k ROT66 but hasn’t compared it side by side with his other lights yet.

SKV89
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adam7027 wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
I just got a reply from Jacky regarding the tint bin:
It is SST-20-W40H-A120-J4402(J4-VH-FA3 . The color is yellow , not great

Given this one is FA3 tint, it should be between 4000k-4250k and a good chance of being below the BBL. The one being sold at Kaidomain, which Maukka tested is FB4 tint, which is completely above the BBL and looks at least as good as the 219C according to Maukka; so I wonder why Jacky thinks it looks “not great”.
!https://i.imgur.com/N5l6UJd.png?1!

I can say, that the FB4 tint of SST-20 is already much better than Nichia 219C regarding perceived BBL position.

I have Nichia 219C 4000K in a Lumintop IYP365 penlight, and I have a Jaxman E2L as well with the same LED as comparison.

I just finished a rather simple Convoy S2+ build with TIR lens and a 7 mode driver (10-100%), and I tested it with a 25 degree beaded lens on an evening bike ride. While I still like the tint of 219C 4000K, I can notice, that it is noticeably greener and yellower than the FB4 SST-20. Also, I can ‘feel’ the slightly better spectrum coverage of the latter.

I have also 4×E21A 4000K from Clemence in a Skilhunt H03 – that felt me a little bit warmer, and it has a slight further extra ‘touch of’ deep red, but FB4 SST-20 is already very good in deep red.

I bought a 4xE21A 4000k Tiara Pro from Clemence. The tint and color rendering on that thing is perfect. Also the Tiara Pro is regulated even on high mode so I can run it with 500+ real lumens continuously, which is great as a work light.

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My ROT66 (nichia) is from the first batch with GITD and is prone to cut off with bumps but it doesn’t bother me.

twisted raven wrote:
They don’t look pink as much as they make other emitters look green.

Until now I never found a true rival to an HDS with Seoul SSC P4 high CRI. The ROT66 looks green compared to the HDS which seems to show deeper or more saturated colors. Red, blue, yellow, orange, etc look better, more natural than with the Nichia 219B SW45K.
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Jk skv. I know this rot66 doesn’t make over 10,000 lumen, but the tint, size, quality, and firmware make it more desirable light. we got atleast 5 people that bought 2 or more rot66 including me..

My rot66 is still stuck in oversea. Will update.

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DHL was early.

The SST20 4000K has a nice tint. It looks very similar to a 219B 4000K, so I think people will be very happy with it. I personally think 4000K looks yellow, even when it’s a good 4000K tint, but a lot of people really like it. I’ll try to get some beam shots later, to see if my camera picks up anything weird.

The aux LED board is wired to BAT+ and BAT-, so it does not turn off… even while the main emitters are on. I’m hoping I might be able to convince Fireflies to attach it to the button LED pin instead, so that it can be turned on and off by the firmware. I need to test that first though. So far though, here’s what it does:

  • 3.3V or above: blue, with both outer rings of LEDs on.
  • 3.0V to 3.3V: Red, inner four emitters only.
  • below 3.0V: Off.

I measured standby power usage too…

  • BLF Q8 standby, button LEDs in low mode: ~30 uA
  • BLF Q8 standby, button LEDs in high mode: 100-130 uA
  • ROT66 without aux LED board: ~120 uA on “high” mode (all 4 button LEDs at full power)
  • ROT66 with aux LED board, 4.2V, pots trimmed to maximum power: ~620 uA (blue)
  • ROT66 with aux LED board, 3.3V, pots trimmed to minimum power: ~230 uA (blue)
  • ROT66 with aux LED board, 3.1V, pots trimmed to maximum power: ~350 uA (red)
  • ROT66 with aux LED board, 3.1V, pots trimmed to minimum power: ~210 uA (red)
  • ROT66 with aux LED board, 2.9V: ~100 uA (aux LED board shuts off below 3.0V)

Based on these numbers… The standby time, with 3×3000 mAh cells, should be anywhere from 1.5 years to 9 years.

I haven’t taken things apart yet, but that’ll happen soon.

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There are three rings of aux LEDs, each with their own pot to trim brightness, so in theory it could be RGB and it could indicate voltage more precisely. I’d like if it did this instead:

  • Blue above 3.8V.
  • Green+blue from 3.6V to 3.8V.
  • Green from 3.4V to 3.6V.
  • Red+green from 3.2V to 3.4V.
  • Red from 2.8V to 3.2V.
  • Off below 2.8V.

Or maybe just have rings turn off as the batteries get lower…

  • Red+green+blue above 3.7V.
  • Red+green from 3.3V to 3.7V.
  • Red from 3.0V to 3.3V.
  • Off below 3.0V.

Or something like that, anyway. There are several ways it could go. I’m not sure it can change, but if so, these are some ideas for what to do.

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I have a request to the owners of ROT66. Can anyone of you screw the battery tube backwards? I have the impression that the pattern on the pipe will look nicer.

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komeko wrote:
I have a request to the owners of ROT66. Can anyone of you screw the battery tube backwards? I have the impression that the pattern on the pipe will look nicer.

Yes you can…..

komeko
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Well, it’s normal. And I wanted the tube reversed

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