Fireflies ROT66 Flashlight

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klrman
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Newlumen wrote:
Anyone with a rot66 with the xpl hi ?? Can you guys post lumen specs ?

 

Compared to my other lights, it seems to be about 7000 lumens or so.  Would be nice to know  how close my guess is if someone can measure it accurately.

Newlumen
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klrman wrote:

Newlumen wrote:
Anyone with a rot66 with the xpl hi ?? Can you guys post lumen specs ?

 


Compared to my other lights, it seems to be about 7000 lumens or so.  Would be nice to know  how close my guess is if someone can measure it accurately.

Yea you are right.. i check out skylumen website and xpl hi say 7000 lumen..

So xpl hi and sst20 cw are putting out same output.. i know xpl hi doesnt heat as quick as sst20.. i like to know what are the advantages of xpl hi led in the rot66 ??

klrman
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That would mean FF lumen specs are a little generous!  $30 more for the xpl hi vs sst20.  Maybe it's a brand thing and possibly not much difference except the price.

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The advantages of using an XPL HI are higher output if the cells can put out enough power for these high VF LEDs. It may also have better tint on the CW model since it does not have a dome.

Otherwise, the SST20s are about as good as XPL HIs, as having a lower forward voltage than the XPL HIs, they can pull the same amount of power from fewer cells, resulting in even brightness with the XPL HI.

I have the impression they measured turn-on output with something like with very high drain Samsung 20S cells, having even lower resistance than Samsung 30Qs and VTC6s, and even VTC5A and VTC5D.

If it had 4 cells, I think it could probably achieve 10k lumens even from 30Qs.

TLDR: Fireflies was way too generous with the output of the light with XPL HIs.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

klrman
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Nice tech info thanks BSM.  

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Thanks BSM.

2100
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ToyKeeper wrote:
2100 wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
Get an ice cube, and hold it against the head of the ROT66 while it runs on turbo.

Heh….never thought about that. I guess it’d be similar too, just that snow’s soft physical property probably still holds a certain edge in maintaining superior contact with the host’s body. Smile

Nope, snow does not have an edge here. The ice cube melts to fit, almost like it’s made of butter. The main difference is that snow doesn’t last as long. Toss a turbo hot-rod light onto a snow pile and it’ll just sink downward as it melts a hole.

Yep, makes sense. Smile

2100
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BlueSwordM wrote:
I have the impression they measured turn-on output with something like with very high drain Samsung 20S cells, having even lower resistance than Samsung 30Qs and VTC6s, and even VTC5A and VTC5D.

The Samsung 20S seems to be known as the hardest hitting 18650 in the vaping community. 6-7 milli ohms or something? (if we are talking in a relative sense to VTC5A/5D ~ 9 milli ohms).

BTW do you know of any source for VTC6A?

I just compared it on the battery comparator, when this is newly charged and used in pocket rockets esp > 15A per cell for measurement purposes, wow. And the temperature increase 30A is really superb.

twisted raven
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Got my ROT66 with the SST-20 4000k hi cri plus the 804 filter from Vinh in today.

So now I have:

ROT66 219B R9080 4500k
ROT66 LH351D +Lee 804 4000k
ROT66 SST-20 HI CRI 4000k
ROT 66 SST-20 HI CRI + Lee 804 4000k

LH351D 4000k and SST-20 4000k (both high CRI) need a minus green filter to get rid of their greenish cast (until someone can source some that place at or below BBL). With both using the Lee Zircon 804 filter, it’s very close between the LH351D and SST-20 when shining on white walls etc. When shining on wood and flesh tones, the SST-20 holds a clear advantage. Nothing else I have comes close to looking as beautiful as the SST-20 + 804 filter with regards to wood and flesh tones. I also prefer the defined, smaller hotspot of the SST-20 in the ROT66 compared to the wall of light that is the LH351D.

Compared to the tint-snob champ, the 219B R9080 4500k, the SST-20+Lee 804 will still look a little dingy and unpure on a white wall, but I prefer the SST-20 +804 still with wood and flesh tones. Output on turbo is greater than the 219B R9080 as well, although nothing gets as impossibly low on moonlight as this 219B sample that I have :P. Anyways, I think both tints are equally as good, and you will probably prefer one over the other depending on your mood.

Also one more thing to note, with the new Anduril UI (and I’m assuming the ramp ceiling being the highest regulated output), the SST20 HI CRI has a higher regulated output compared to the 219B R9080. I’m guessing around 1400 lumens. 5 mins in and the light is only a little warm.

contactcr
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Good summary.

One thing I guess I will never understand is how people hold 219B to such high acclaim. Saying SST-20 + 804 is still dingy and unpure but is probably still closer to BBL than 219B will ever be. So much stats and measuring involved and ultimately everyone ends up just choosing a preference based on a pink hue that is more visibly appealing even if less technically accurate.

Similar thing happened when the SST-40 became popular to use for modding. People claimed even though it was such a high CCT that it still looked “pure white”. It’s got the most hideous blue and purple spill I have ever seen.

I guess ultimately I am thankful that, to me, what people typically consider unbearable green hue does not stand out very much to me. I feel like if the 219B was any other brand than Nichia or ~80CRI everyone would hate it.

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I don’t have the equipment to measure what the duv of the SST20+804 would be, but I do imagine it would be a little less pink biased than the R9080, but the R9080 in the ROT66 as it is ins’t all that pink until you run the emitters at max output, then you can see the pinkish hue.

When I say less pure, I’m talking mostly from a CCT standpoint. My eyes just naturally white-balanced to 4500k easier and faster than they do 4000k, even at night-time. Yet, at the same time, even if my eyes are white-balanced to the 4500k CCT of the nichias, the warmer-toned SST-20+804 just adds so much richness to wood tones with its warmer color (and what I’m assuming is an appreciably greater deep red rendering)

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contactcr wrote:
One thing I guess I will never understand is how people hold 219B to such high acclaim.

I like pink.

Specifically, I see less red than most people, and instead I see slightly into the UV part of the light spectrum. So I appreciate having a little extra red beyond what is normally considered “white”, because that makes things look whiter to me than a true blackbody light source.

contactcr
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I suppose that makes sense. Like a deaf person standing next to the sub woofer to feel the bass.

Just seems like people see a graph and a dot that may be barely measurable above BBL and suddenly, without cause, it must be repulsive green yet something driven so hard below BBL is given a pass. If more people just said “i like pink” I think it would make more sense.

Poor green and yellow LEDs, some day you will shine Smile

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ToyKeeper wrote:

Specifically, I see less red than most people, and instead I see slightly into the UV part of the light spectrum.

LOL, you sound like the perfect person to follow the opinion on tint. Big Smile
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TK and her color deficient mafia controlling the narrative on tint. It’s all coming together. Steve

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contactcr wrote:
One thing I guess I will never understand is how people hold 219B to such high acclaim. Saying SST-20 + 804 is still dingy and unpure but is probably still closer to BBL than 219B will ever be. So much stats and measuring involved and ultimately everyone ends up just choosing a preference based on a pink hue that is more visibly appealing even if less technically accurate.

The difference in CCT of 4000K vs. 4500K is probably significantly more noticeable than the deviation from the BBL of the 219C. At a minimum, a chromaticity diagram tends to suggest as much.

I also think the way our vision works explains part of your observation. Although in isolation, a very wide range of color temperatures can appear to be pure white, if you take any random person, and given them an adjustable temperature light source like a Viltrox panel or a Zanflare T1, and tell them to adjust it to be as white as possible, I bet there’d be two primary observations:

(1) Not everyone will choose the same setting.
(2) Most people will tend towards a setting in 5000-5500k range.

The reason I say this is both because it is consistent with my personal experience, and because the average human eye has a peak sensitivity that corresponds to the peak output of a black body source at 5225K. I do not know of research testing my argument in a properly controlled setting, however.

So likewise, I think most people would find 4500K closer to pure white than 4000K. But I also suspect there is enough variation that some people may find 4000K more pure than 4500K. Furthermore, others may find 4500K more “pure”, yet perceive a good 4000K not as “dingier” (negative) but as “warmer” (positive).

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contactcr wrote:
Good summary.

One thing I guess I will never understand is how people hold 219B to such high acclaim. Saying SST-20 + 804 is still dingy and unpure but is probably still closer to BBL than 219B will ever be. So much stats and measuring involved and ultimately everyone ends up just choosing a preference based on a pink hue that is more visibly appealing even if less technically accurate.

Similar thing happened when the SST-40 became popular to use for modding. People claimed even though it was such a high CCT that it still looked “pure white”. It’s got the most hideous blue and purple spill I have ever seen.

I guess ultimately I am thankful that, to me, what people typically consider unbearable green hue does not stand out very much to me. I feel like if the 219B was any other brand than Nichia or ~80CRI everyone would hate it.

I don’t agree. I own about 2 dozen Nichia 219C 90CRI lights from 4000k to 5000k and I don’t like the tint on any of them. I also own two Nichia 219B 4000k 90CRI, two Nichia 219B 4500k 90CRI lights, and four Nichia 219B 5000k lights. I never really thought their tint was all that. I kept saying the 219B tint is overrated and that the Cree A and D tint is much better except the Nichia 90CRI does render colors better compared side by side. At the time I didn’t realize what 9000, 9050, 9080 meant and all of my 219B lights were actually 9050 or below. The ROT66 was my first 219B 9080 light and I was blown away how nice it looks. It doesn’t even look rosy unless you blast it on turbo but colors really come to life. Wood texture looks exactly how it should be. Other lights make wood look yellow, but the 9080 makes wood look brown. Tint wise on a white wall, it doesn’t look “that” much better than my Cree A or D tint flashlights but when illuminating objects such as wood texture, dirt, and foliage, the 9080 makes a big difference in bringing out the colors compared with Cree.

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djozz wrote:
LOL, you sound like the perfect person to follow the opinion on tint. Big Smile

I know, right?

I’ve been trying to warn people not to just blindly trust my taste in the FW3A thread, but it hasn’t been going well.

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I got my rot66 Samsung 4000k from sky. I measured 6000 lumen .. the tint is not too yellow nor green.

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Love it! I like green way tha fk more than blue balls!

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Flashlights are addicting. I’ve ordered my 3rd. Or is it just this flashlight?

Is anyone noticing their lights sucking the life out of batteries with no use? I’ve had one set completely drain in one light and the other light drained them below 3.0v, over a few days. One with auxiliary LEDs one without

never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby

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For me it’s just the light. It’s such a nice host to test a multitude of high cri emitters, especially since it’s easy to slip filters in between the optics and lens. Of course I wouldn’t be using the host to begin with if the UI sucked. I like the Narsil UI quite a bit, and I think I like the Anduril UI even better, since the ramp ceiling stops at the highest regulated output.

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twisted raven wrote:
For me it’s just the light. It’s such a nice host to test a multitude of high cri emitters, especially since it’s easy to slip filters in between the optics and lens. Of course I wouldn’t be using the host to begin with if the UI sucked. I like the Narsil UI quite a bit, and I think I like the Anduril UI even better, since the ramp ceiling stops at the highest regulated output.

Anduril is a bit delay when turn on the light and turn off compare to narsil v.

I notice that on my rot66.

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I haven’t noticed Anduril delay when turning on with one click, it seems to be as instant as Narsil. It does turn off momentarily then turn back on when you double click from off though. Anduril also has a delay when turning off just like Zebralights. Those are two things I feel Narsil does better.

So I’ve been playing with the presumed 1400 or so ramp ceiling with my SST20 4000k sample, and it does seem to steadily drop in output over time, I guess to keep it within a safe operating temperature. Is there a way to configure the temperature limit? The little paper provided for the Anduril UI makes no sense whatsoever ( the one with all the ovals and bat symbol).

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Newlumen wrote:
klrman wrote:

Newlumen wrote:
Do you think it is cheaper to buy it from illumn ?

 

 I buy often from Illumn, they are the best, but I wanted to save a few bucks.  3x30Q from ff cost me $20CAD and from illumn will cost me $43 CAD.

I agree. I hope fireflies find a way to send you those 3 samsung 30q.

 

By mistake, ff sent me another rot66 with batteries included, before I even told them that batteries were missing on mine.   Should arrive Monday.  Jack just told me he'll give me a deal if I want to keep the light and of course I said yes 

 

Canada Post is offering venture one card holders free shipping across Canada every Tuesday in October.  Might be an idea to sell some of my new lights and stock up on a few more rot66's.

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Fireflies seems intent on changing our perception of Chinese customer service. Thumbs Up

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twisted raven wrote:
the ramp ceiling stops at the highest regulated output.

That can be set to whatever level you want. The highest regulated output is simply the default configuration.

For reference, the highest regulated level is 115/150 on the 219B model or 125/150 on other models.

Newlumen wrote:
Anduril is a bit delay when turn on the light and turn off
twisted raven wrote:
It does turn off momentarily then turn back on when you double click from off though. Anduril also has a delay when turning off just like Zebralights. Those are two things I feel Narsil does better.

Anduril gives the user a window of 24 ticks (0.384 seconds) to complete each action. For example, when pressing the button, if the user releases the button within 0.384s, the action is considered a “click”. But if the user presses longer than that, it is considered a “hold” action. And after releasing a click, the user has 0.384s to press again for a double click or a triple click, etc. After the button has been released for 0.384s, it decides the user is done pressing the button and it responds.

When turning off, there is one window worth of delay between releasing the button and actually turning off the LEDs. This is done to give the user time to press again for a double click, a click-release-hold action, a triple click, or other things they might want to do. If it turned off as soon as the button was released the first time, that would mean the light would have to turn off and back on when doing “double click for turbo” and “click-release-hold to ramp down”.

So it is a matter of one poison or another. I prefer the delayed-off issue over the off-and-back-on issue. But I plan on adding a compile option to choose whichever one the user wants.

There is a similar issue with doing a double click from off — the shortcut to turbo (er, the ceiling level). Since a lot of functions take more than two clicks from off, I don’t want it to flash turbo on the way to those other functions. The sequence of events for that looks like this:

  1. Button down: Light up at floor level for immediate moon.
  2. Button up: Oops, not moon. Go up to the memorized level for immediate mem.
  3. Button down: Oops, not mem either. Turn off and wait until the input window expires before taking any further action.

However, to avoid turning off before turbo, it could maybe do this instead…

  1. Button down: Light up at floor level for immediate moon.
  2. Button up: Oops, not moon. Go up to the memorized level for immediate mem.
  3. Button down: Do nothing.
  4. Button up: Do nothing.
  5. Button down: Not moon, mem, or turbo… so turn off and wait until the input window expires before taking any further action.

For double click, this would mean staying at the memorized level before jumping up to turbo, instead of turning off. Would that help?

twisted raven wrote:
Is there a way to configure the temperature limit? The little paper provided for the Anduril UI makes no sense

Yes, you should be able to calibrate the sensor and set a temperature limit. I’d start with just the sensor, and then change the limit if it still doesn’t work how you want. It’s kind of buried though, because it only really needs to be calibrated once. Here’s how:

  • Let the light settle to room temperature. Check a thermometer to find out what room temperature is, in degrees C, and remember this number.
  • 3 clicks from off, for battery check mode.
  • 2 clicks for sunset mode.
  • 2 clicks for beacon mode.
  • 2 clicks for temperature check mode. I’d suggest waiting for it to read out a value here, to find out how far off the calibration is. It should be the same number as what the thermometer said, but it could be significantly higher. (for example, a value of 31 C would be 3 blinks, pause, 1 blink)
  • 4 clicks for thermal config mode.
  • Calibrate the sensor: Light blinks once then stutters. During the stutter, click once per degree C for the current room temperature. It’s probably somewhere around 20.
  • Optional: Set a temperature limit: Light blinks twice then stutters. Click once per degree C you want for the temperature limit, minus 30. So, for 45 C, click 15 times. 45 is the default. To skip this step, just wait a few seconds for the light to fall out of config mode on its own.

Usually calibrating the sensor is enough, and it only needs to be done once. After that, any further adjustment should typically modify the temperature limit instead.

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klrman wrote:

Newlumen wrote:
klrman wrote:

Newlumen wrote:
Do you think it is cheaper to buy it from illumn ?

 


 I buy often from Illumn, they are the best, but I wanted to save a few bucks.  3×30Q from ff cost me $20CAD and from illumn will cost me $43 CAD.


I agree. I hope fireflies find a way to send you those 3 samsung 30q.

 


By mistake, ff sent me another rot66 with batteries included, before I even told them that batteries were missing on mine.   Should arrive Monday.  Jack just told me he’ll give me a deal if I want to keep the light and of course I said yes 


 


Canada Post is offering venture one card holders free shipping across Canada every Tuesday in October.  Might be an idea to sell some of my new lights and stock up on a few more rot66’s.

Jacky gave me free Enogear AA too when mine broke. Its the same owner as FF. I’ll be buying more from FF and Enogear. I value good customer service.

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contactcr wrote:
TK and her color deficient mafia controlling the narrative on tint. It’s all coming together. Steve

Na, it’s more like critics on a movie:
If they bash in a certain style on a movie, you know you’ll love that one.

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