Fireflies ROT66 Flashlight

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klrman
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mitosis wrote:
So I just had the exact same "carrier won't fit with cells installed" thing happen with one of my ROT66s, figured I'd chime in here with what I did to fix it. I had an old set of VTC4s in it and had been using the light for a couple days, went to put a set of new 30Qs in (mainly just to see if they were too long or too short, wasn't expecting them to be too fat) and then couldn't install the carrier anymore. Tried it again with a set of new VTC6s and again the carrier wouldn't fit. I didn't like the idea of having a loose post, so instead I loosened each of the five accessible screws one at a time and tugged outwards on the loose end of the post while re-tightening the screw. Did that to all five of the post-ends with accessible screws and now every type of cell I have fits fine, no loose posts either.

 

I did the same thing last night after they finally slid in easily.

 

One of the poles on the carrier is not insulated all the way to the top.  Does that make any difference overall?

 

Newlumen
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JasonWW wrote:
Was Newlumen advocating leaving one post loose permanently? I didn’t think so. You need all posts to be tight, they carry all the battery current. Leaving one loose permanently could potentially cause problems or maybe even reduce output (in theory).

It doesnt reduce output.

Fully charged. 7000 lumen
3.86v. 5800 lumen

ToyKeeper
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2100 wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
Get an ice cube, and hold it against the head of the ROT66 while it runs on turbo.

Heh….never thought about that. I guess it’d be similar too, just that snow’s soft physical property probably still holds a certain edge in maintaining superior contact with the host’s body. Smile

Nope, snow does not have an edge here. The ice cube melts to fit, almost like it’s made of butter. The main difference is that snow doesn’t last as long. Toss a turbo hot-rod light onto a snow pile and it’ll just sink downward as it melts a hole.

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klrman wrote:

One of the poles on the carrier is not insulated all the way to the top. Does that make any difference overall?



No, it should be fine.

It’s technically not needed, but I would leave as is.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

iamlucky13
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SKV89 wrote:
I placed an order for the xpl hi 3A version, which is the 4th ROT66 I ordered.

That’s quite an endorsement! So now you’ll have one of each stock emitter family, plus a LH351D?

Do you have any other 3 to 4 × 18650 lights like the Q8 to discuss pros and cons relative to the ROT66?

SKV89
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iamlucky13 wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
I placed an order for the xpl hi 3A version, which is the 4th ROT66 I ordered.

That’s quite an endorsement! So now you’ll have one of each stock emitter family, plus a LH351D?

Do you have any other 3 to 4 × 18650 lights like the Q8 to discuss pros and cons relative to the ROT66?

Not going to get LH351D because the ones available in the market now have too much yellow/green like the 219C and needs a green filter to look comparable to the 219B, SST-20, or Cree A and D tints. I have two M43, MK34, two MF01, two MT09R, MT03, and Eagtac MX30L3-C 219B 4500k, and maybe a few more I can’t remember.

The M43 has more heatsinking mass and more premium quality feel. Can maintain high output better due to additional mass so more practical. However, I dislike the UI. ROT66 has Narsil or Anduril, which is much better and the ROT66 has brighter turbo. The M43 would be my favorite if it had the same ROT66 driver and 219B 9080 option.

The MK34 uses 219C and the tint is a bit yellow for my liking. I also hate Manker UI that lumps Turbo with the blinky modes. It is a super nice looking light and more mass than ROT66 so has great modding potential.

MF01 stock sucks. The V2 219C 5000k is very greenish. UI sucks too. I had mine modded by Lexel to use buck driver and Narsil. Much better. It has much more mass so can handle lumens better than ROT66. Not as good looking as ROT66 though and still has greenish 219c.

MT03 is the heaviest 4×18650 flooder I’ve seen and extremely well built. MT03 weighs 600g, Acebeam X80GT weighs 330g, ROT66 weighs 256g. Extremely good heat dissipation. Mine was modded by TA with the 4000k 80CRI 70.2 and TA driver. Love the thing. It is much floodier than the ROT66.

MT09R is similar to MT03 with good throw. Love it too. But it is much bigger.

Eagtac MX30L3-C although has 219B 4500k, the tint is nowhere near as nice as the 219B 9080 version in the ROT66. It actually looks greenish next to the 9080. It is also not as bright but much more throwy.

klrman
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JasonWW wrote:
klrman wrote:

One of the poles on the carrier is not insulated all the way to the top. Does that make any difference overall?

No, it should be fine. It's technically not needed, but I would leave as is.

 

Thanks.  I wasn't sure what the purpose of it was, but thought maybe just as an extra protection not to damage

the battery sleeves or something like that.

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SKV89 wrote:
I placed an order for the xpl hi 3A version, which is the 4th ROT66 I ordered.

I have two M43, MK34, two MF01, two MT09R, MT03, and Eagtac MX30L3-C 219B 4500k, and maybe a few more I can’t remember.

That is quite a few soda-can-style lights. What do you use them for?

I have a few also, but not that many. Original Skyray King, Blackshadow Terminator, Meteor M43, BLF Q8, and ROT66. But I pretty much only use the BLF Q8 and the ROT66. The Q8 is because I have a 3D-printed diffuser cap for it so it works really well in candle mode. And I use the ROT66 because it’s smaller and has a gorgeous 219B beam.

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belt, suspenders, velcro, and elastic waist tabs? Blushing

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Damn skv, you got a nice collection.

SKV89
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Newlumen, I see from your new avatar that you must really love your ROT66

ToyKeeper, I actually hardly even use my soda-can lights. I used them a few times for work but they are actually too big to carry around and I need to take pics with my other hand so I stick with smaller lights like TC20, C8F, Armytek headlamps, Acebeam H15, S2+ etc. I have used the soda can lights to ceiling bounce for indoor picture taking and took it out with friends to play around with. Otherwise I just enjoy collecting lights. It’s flashaholism at a feverish level. Hopefully I find good use for them some day.

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SKV89 wrote:
Not going to get LH351D because the ones available in the market now have too much yellow/green like the 219C and needs a green filter to look comparable to the 219B, SST-20, or Cree A and D tints. I have two M43, MK34, two MF01, two MT09R, MT03, and Eagtac MX30L3-C 219B 4500k, and maybe a few more I can’t remember.

My mistake. It was twisted raven who has the LH351D version.

Thanks for all the comparison info!

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Actually I am getting my rot66 Samsung 5000k from skylumen54 Friday.

klrman
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Newlumen wrote:
Actually I am getting my rot66 Samsung 5000k from skylumen54 Friday.

 

What is the difference with the skylumen rot66?

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klrman wrote:

Newlumen wrote:
Actually I am getting my rot66 Samsung 5000k from skylumen54 Friday.

 


What is the difference with the skylumen rot66?

He just installed 9 samsung 5000k led and warranty. Thats it. Basically i am paying $100 to do the job.

klrman
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Newlumen wrote:
klrman wrote:

Newlumen wrote:
Actually I am getting my rot66 Samsung 5000k from skylumen54 Friday.

 

What is the difference with the skylumen rot66?

He just installed 9 samsung 5000k led and warranty. Thats it. Basically i am paying $100 to do the job.

 

You like the ss 5k better than the xpl-hi 5k?

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klrman wrote:

Newlumen wrote:
klrman wrote:

Newlumen wrote:
Actually I am getting my rot66 Samsung 5000k from skylumen54 Friday.

 


What is the difference with the skylumen rot66?


He just installed 9 samsung 5000k led and warranty. Thats it. Basically i am paying $100 to do the job.

 


You like the ss 5k better than the xpl-hi 5k?

I dont know yet.. i am getting it tomorrow.. samsung 5000k is 80 cri, and 6000 lumen.. i will test output and beamshot tomorrow.

klrman
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Oh, ok, would be interesting if you like it or not.

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Anyone with a rot66 with the xpl hi ?? Can you guys post lumen specs ?

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SKV89 wrote:
klrman wrote:

Newlumen wrote:
klrman wrote:

Newlumen wrote:
I observed 2 black pole should be tight and one black pole should loose freely.. You can adjust it using your hand.. can you try that method?

 

It works!!!!!!!!!  Thanks, that did the trick.  Having one pole looser made all the difference, thanks Newlumen  

 

Wow is it ever bright.  This little light is  blinding with the xpl hi.

Nice. Yay. :)

 

Oh yeah, had to go into the garden to try it out just now.  What an even flood, it's amazing.   That 5000k tint is beautiful 

Good to know you got it sorted out. I placed an order for the xpl hi 3A version, which is the 4th ROT66 I ordered. I love this light and the only thing I want to see improved is increased mass for better heatsinking for longer high output usage. This thing is too light for the size and power, which really limits the potential for practical use. Maybe they can release a beefed up version later and hopefully with some copper.

 

I'be in interested in a beefed up version as well.  Meanwhile, my Wife loves the rot66 so much that I better be careful what I say about it!

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Newlumen wrote:
Anyone with a rot66 with the xpl hi ?? Can you guys post lumen specs ?

 

Compared to my other lights, it seems to be about 7000 lumens or so.  Would be nice to know  how close my guess is if someone can measure it accurately.

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klrman wrote:

Newlumen wrote:
Anyone with a rot66 with the xpl hi ?? Can you guys post lumen specs ?

 


Compared to my other lights, it seems to be about 7000 lumens or so.  Would be nice to know  how close my guess is if someone can measure it accurately.

Yea you are right.. i check out skylumen website and xpl hi say 7000 lumen..

So xpl hi and sst20 cw are putting out same output.. i know xpl hi doesnt heat as quick as sst20.. i like to know what are the advantages of xpl hi led in the rot66 ??

klrman
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That would mean FF lumen specs are a little generous!  $30 more for the xpl hi vs sst20.  Maybe it's a brand thing and possibly not much difference except the price.

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The advantages of using an XPL HI are higher output if the cells can put out enough power for these high VF LEDs. It may also have better tint on the CW model since it does not have a dome.

Otherwise, the SST20s are about as good as XPL HIs, as having a lower forward voltage than the XPL HIs, they can pull the same amount of power from fewer cells, resulting in even brightness with the XPL HI.

I have the impression they measured turn-on output with something like with very high drain Samsung 20S cells, having even lower resistance than Samsung 30Qs and VTC6s, and even VTC5A and VTC5D.

If it had 4 cells, I think it could probably achieve 10k lumens even from 30Qs.

TLDR: Fireflies was way too generous with the output of the light with XPL HIs.

klrman
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Nice tech info thanks BSM.  

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Thanks BSM.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
2100 wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
Get an ice cube, and hold it against the head of the ROT66 while it runs on turbo.

Heh….never thought about that. I guess it’d be similar too, just that snow’s soft physical property probably still holds a certain edge in maintaining superior contact with the host’s body. Smile

Nope, snow does not have an edge here. The ice cube melts to fit, almost like it’s made of butter. The main difference is that snow doesn’t last as long. Toss a turbo hot-rod light onto a snow pile and it’ll just sink downward as it melts a hole.

Yep, makes sense. Smile

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BlueSwordM wrote:
I have the impression they measured turn-on output with something like with very high drain Samsung 20S cells, having even lower resistance than Samsung 30Qs and VTC6s, and even VTC5A and VTC5D.

The Samsung 20S seems to be known as the hardest hitting 18650 in the vaping community. 6-7 milli ohms or something? (if we are talking in a relative sense to VTC5A/5D ~ 9 milli ohms).

BTW do you know of any source for VTC6A?

I just compared it on the battery comparator, when this is newly charged and used in pocket rockets esp > 15A per cell for measurement purposes, wow. And the temperature increase 30A is really superb.

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Got my ROT66 with the SST-20 4000k hi cri plus the 804 filter from Vinh in today.

So now I have:

ROT66 219B R9080 4500k
ROT66 LH351D +Lee 804 4000k
ROT66 SST-20 HI CRI 4000k
ROT 66 SST-20 HI CRI + Lee 804 4000k

LH351D 4000k and SST-20 4000k (both high CRI) need a minus green filter to get rid of their greenish cast (until someone can source some that place at or below BBL). With both using the Lee Zircon 804 filter, it’s very close between the LH351D and SST-20 when shining on white walls etc. When shining on wood and flesh tones, the SST-20 holds a clear advantage. Nothing else I have comes close to looking as beautiful as the SST-20 + 804 filter with regards to wood and flesh tones. I also prefer the defined, smaller hotspot of the SST-20 in the ROT66 compared to the wall of light that is the LH351D.

Compared to the tint-snob champ, the 219B R9080 4500k, the SST-20+Lee 804 will still look a little dingy and unpure on a white wall, but I prefer the SST-20 +804 still with wood and flesh tones. Output on turbo is greater than the 219B R9080 as well, although nothing gets as impossibly low on moonlight as this 219B sample that I have :P. Anyways, I think both tints are equally as good, and you will probably prefer one over the other depending on your mood.

Also one more thing to note, with the new Anduril UI (and I’m assuming the ramp ceiling being the highest regulated output), the SST20 HI CRI has a higher regulated output compared to the 219B R9080. I’m guessing around 1400 lumens. 5 mins in and the light is only a little warm.

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Good summary.

One thing I guess I will never understand is how people hold 219B to such high acclaim. Saying SST-20 + 804 is still dingy and unpure but is probably still closer to BBL than 219B will ever be. So much stats and measuring involved and ultimately everyone ends up just choosing a preference based on a pink hue that is more visibly appealing even if less technically accurate.

Similar thing happened when the SST-40 became popular to use for modding. People claimed even though it was such a high CCT that it still looked “pure white”. It’s got the most hideous blue and purple spill I have ever seen.

I guess ultimately I am thankful that, to me, what people typically consider unbearable green hue does not stand out very much to me. I feel like if the 219B was any other brand than Nichia or ~80CRI everyone would hate it.

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