Sofirn SP36, impressions of a sample

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Lux-Perpetua
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You can download the NarsilM 1.2 manual from my ► sharepoint ◄ (in English or German language). I'm in touch with Sofirn if they agree to let me publish the entire manual (i.e. with the first page about the SP36) as it is now available on Amazon as well.

 

All three batteries work in parallel. Make sure that these are charged to the same level before you put them into the light. Otherwise the springs are at risk to melt due to immediate leveling of voltage between the cells, just as Tom E already explained.

white7561
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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

You can download the NarsilM 1.2 manual from my ► sharepoint ◄ (in English or German language). I’m in touch with Sofirn if they agree to let me publish the entire manual (i.e. with the first page about the SP36) as it is now available on Amazon as well.

Thank you so much. It’ll definitely help me getting used to the control Big Smile

white7561
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Hey guys. It’s me again. I have other questions. So . I’ve done more research and it seems like Anduril is a newer different firmware? Or more updated firmware? And im new to all this so I want to know if it’s better with more features or no?. Also how do I flash it if I want to flash it to my still shipping SP36? Thank you. Smile

djozz
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You are a parallel thinker, are you? Everything sorted out before the flashlight even has arrived!

The advantage of that is that everything is ready steady go beforehand, the disadvantage is that some of your questions never needed asking and answered once you have the actual light in your hands, or that you at that point may even choose a completely direction than what you figured out before.

(I’m a serial person myself)

white7561
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djozz wrote:
You are a parallel thinker, are you? Everything sorted out before the flashlight even has arrived!

The advantage of that is that everything is ready steady go beforehand, the disadvantage is that some of your questions never needed asking and answered once you have the actual light in your hands, or that you at that point may even choose a completely direction that what you figured out before.

(I’m a serial person myself)

Hehe. Sorry if it seems like I ask a LOT of questions. But I like changing firmware etc. And why not if it’s much better than the stock firmware? Silly . Thats why I rooted my phone and changed the ROM etc Silly . Anyways. Back to the questions. Can you or anyone explain/answer these questions for me? Hehe. It made me so excited when I know I can change the firmware hahaha

Tally-ho
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If you want to try out different firmwares, you should use a more “modder friendly” flashlight.

white7561
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Tally-ho wrote:
If you want to try out different firmwares, you should use a more “modder friendly” flashlight.

Ahh… So it’s very hard to mod the SP36 ye? Thanks for your reply Big Smile

djozz
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If you scroll through this thread you will find that many people think that the glued driver is too much of a problem to handle. Every mod with the SP36 starts with getting the driver out. I managed to do that and so did Anthon, so it is doable.

white7561
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I see. Too hard for first time yeah? Silly .

djozz
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Not neccessarily, you need to have a certain preparedness to screw things up and then you will be fine Silly

white7561
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djozz wrote:
Not neccessarily, you need to have a certain preparedness to screw things up and then you will be fine Silly

Silly Is it that much better tho? The firmware? Anyways another question. I know that on default turbo is timed to about 3 minutes (?) Before stepping down.. say I changed it to 7minutes. And it goes to a critical temperature which its so hot it could damage it.. does the firmware has this limit on temp where it will step down even if I set the turbo limit to timed and not temperature based?? Like basically a thermal limit that can’t be disabled…

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7 minutes gets the SP36 burning hot but it may not kill itself yet. Just try it out and tell us. As I said, once you have the light in your hands, get the manual and try everything from own experience, you may even stick to Narsil because it is a great UI. And no, there is no ultimate fail-safe feature on this light, if you want timer stepdown at 7 minutes, it will step down at 7 minutes period, if you want a thermally induced stepdown you will have to set it that way. Btw 3 minutes I found is a sensible stepdown moment if the batteriescare full.

white7561
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Or I guess I could just set it to 5minutes.. anyways can’t wait for it to be here. Been waiting for Sofirn to ship it. It hasn’t been shipped yet. Hmm. The UI will need time getting used to. But that’s fine , it’s worth it. The features are so awesome!! . Also I think the manual/cheat sheet included should be small enough for me to slip it inside the battery holder haha Silly . Oh also. Do you and others enable the standby led or not? I mean led like that should last like forever haha. But I’m just worried about the battery drain. It should be cool and good looking tho haha.

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Just make sure the batteries are married and have the positive end up, and everything should be fine.

… and by “married” I mean all cells of the same type purchased at the same time, at the same voltage, with the same number of charge/discharge cycles in their history. Basically, treat them as if they are one indivisible battery instead of three separate cells.

As for firmware, be sure to use and explore the stock firmware thoroughly first before deciding whether to switch. It’s one of the best available, and changing it may not be worth the effort.

white7561
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Yeah I bought 3 same exact batteries from the same seller. It should be close enough. But I guess I should charge all of em first then go put it in. I hope my protected batteries with 6.7A limit each works fine hahaha.

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I’d just check the voltage with a DMM first. If they’re really close, they should be fine to go into the light together, and then the light can charge them as one. It shouldn’t be necessary to open up the light again unless you decide to take the driver out.

white7561
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Yeah I’ll do that. Thanks for the tip ! Smile

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I like onboard charging but what happens if one cell prematurely fails ?

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Nothing. If the cell completely dies(CID popped 0V), then it will just act as an open circuit, so current will only be put on the 2 remaining 18650s.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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pennzy wrote:
I like onboard charging but what happens if one cell prematurely fails ?

As long as the cells are married, that generally just doesn’t happen. The majority of all li-ion cells in the world are used in married configurations… like in the battery pack for power tools, or the battery pack for a notebook computer, or the battery pack for an electric car. That’s the type of use they’re designed for. Most of the time, the cells age at the same rate… and when they don’t, it still typically doesn’t cause problems, especially in a parallel config like the SP36 uses.

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Thanks, that makes me like on board charging even more. I don’t mess with series cells at all.

genjar
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Nice size it will be easy to grab since it will fit to any pocket in my bag.

PBWilson
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It’s definitely an “in the bag” or maybe a jacket pocket sized light. Still, the power in that package is considerable!

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I digress….but….I love Sofirn lights….BUT….I’d be glad to pay extra NOT to have glue on any of them. Now back to reality.

white7561
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Oh also guys. If it trips the protection PCB on the protected 18650B . I could just remove the protection PCB right? It should be fine yeah?

Lux-Perpetua
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No offense but do you think it's reasonable to remove the PCB from those cells just to improve the situation a little bit? You still won't be able to run the SP36 at high performance. How about buying 3 good Samsung 30Q or Sony VTC6 for less than 20 bucks? I'm sure you won't regret it.

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They shouldn't trip - no way you can get 6A or above out of these in the SP36.

white7561
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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

No offense but do you think it’s reasonable to remove the PCB from those cells just to improve the situation a little bit? You still won’t be able to run the SP36 at high performance. How about buying 3 good Samsung 30Q or Sony VTC6 for less than 20 bucks? I’m sure you won’t regret it.

idk the problem is i just bought 3 of those batts so yeah haha

white7561
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Tom E wrote:

They shouldn’t trip – no way you can get 6A or above out of these in the SP36.

i hope it wouldnt trip. anyways. whats the estimated lumens on turbo for 3 18650B? thanks eh

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white7561 wrote:
Tom E wrote:

They shouldn't trip - no way you can get 6A or above out of these in the SP36.

i hope it wouldn't trip. anyways. whats the estimated lumens on turbo for 3 18650B? thanks eh

All I have is old 18650B's, well, because they are an old cell, but even new ones should not perform well in this light, add the protection circuit and it gets worse. I'd guess ~4K lumens, maybe less. Actually that's the good thing - using low capability cells in a light like less produces what you want - less amps, the driver adapts to the resistance of the cells. There's not a straight 1:1 correlation for amps to lumens. Reducing amps from 18A to 12A won't be a 33% drop in lumens, but less, maybe 25-30%. The higher the amps the less efficient these LED's become.

My math and guess may be off a bit here. Looks like djozz measured 4900 lumens, so ~4K may be close.

You could also add resistance by using thinner and/or longer LED wires.

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