Gocomma assisted & manual flipper knives

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Lightbringer
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teacher wrote:
No joy. I found two original issue one owner, but neither one for sale.

Naw, I figured as not. Any searches hit the brand, not the knife. Just Not Meant To Be.

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Lightbringer
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Blackbeard wrote:
Check some of the Ontario fixed blades, they might have one similar to what your looking for Lightbringer

Nah, I saw plenty. Got Ka-Bar knives and the like, but I was hoping for an original.

There was a cheap and pretty decent fixed-blade I got a while ago from GB. “Knife with sharper” was the description. Holster’s a POS, but the knife is pretty decent.

Thing is, neither one had the “sharper” included. Pffft. Sick

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Blackbeard
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Lightbringer wrote:
Blackbeard wrote:
Check some of the Ontario fixed blades, they might have one similar to what your looking for Lightbringer

Nah, I saw plenty. Got Ka-Bar knives and the like, but I was hoping for an original.

There was a cheap and pretty decent fixed-blade I got a while ago from GB. “Knife with sharper” was the description. Holster’s a POS, but the knife is pretty decent.

Thing is, neither one had the “sharper” included. Pffft. Sick

maybe best bet is to go to a gun/knife show

teacher
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Lightbringer wrote:
teacher wrote:
No joy. I found two original issue one owner, but neither one for sale.

Naw, I figured as not. Any searches hit the brand, not the knife. Just Not Meant To Be.

Try searching “original issue sog knife”.

The two copied & pasted posts below are from HERE . Interesting reading I thought…..
___
SOG is the term given to them by collectors as this is who used them the most.Men attached to Special Operations Group or as it was also known as Special Observation Group earlier in the War.A friend of mine who carried one of these called it a “throw away“knife.This being if you lost it or threw it away it wasnt like loosing your Randall.Most of the issue ones were sterile for the purpose of not being traceable back to the US Forces on missions across the fence.If memory serves me correctly Ben Baker is the one credited for development and early procurement of these knives through the CISO program.There is various models and styles but they all have similiar style hand guards,leather grips,black or white spacers in the grip,and similiar blade grinds. The two main model differances are shown above.The first type having a longer,narrower blade which I think is an earlier model( or have been told)then the second style with the shorter wider blade.With in this series you will encounter variations in blade finninsh(blue or plum),variations in cross guard thickness(narrow and fat..fat guard)also the material varied in guard and pommel construction materials.These being brass,alumium,or steel.These second types are often the ones seen and used for presentation pieces.The knifes as far as I know were produced by a firm in Japan.There also exsists another style that is referred to as a Marine Recon.Same basic handle configuration but with a broader more bellied blade and it has a blood groove on each side of the blade of the ones I have seen.

There has been several articles done on these knives and books too.Frank Trzaska has done arcticles on them as well as Mike Siveys book and Tom Clinton put out a book on the Special Forces knives.

Im sure there are other forum members who can give you a better run down on the SOG knives.I hope this helps.Take care,

___
Hi guys.

I will try to help throw some more light on the SOG knives allong with Doyler. http://www.usmilitar…tyle_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif
The SOG knives were made and issued to SOGs (Studies and Observation Group) clandestine and cross-border
recon teams (RT) and Spike teams (ST) for their across the fence missions.
The knives were made by CISO (counterinsurgency support office) stationed at Okinawa.
Founder of the knife was Conrad Ben Baker.
The longer model was the SOG 7” Recon and the shorter more common one is 6” SOG Bowie.

The 7” RECON, had made total of 1,308 knives.

The 6” SOG “Bowie” was made by many different makers and that is one of the reasons to why the guards, spine patterns, ricassos, etc., can be different from knife to knife.
The hilt and pommel can be of aluminum, iron and brass that is the mainly used material.(if I´v been told right)
The 6” SOG comes in 3 type of blades.
The blade was dark blued but some knives can be seen with the unique plum colored oxidation, and came about because the dark blueing attained by some makers required a longer, hotter dip, which ruines blade temper.
Plum-colored blades were coincidental to manufacturer. Some knives were allso chromed and used for presentation.
There are 4 different type of leather sheaths.

In 1966 SOG ordered 1,200 sterile SOG knives.
In 1967 another 3,700 sterile SOG knives was ordered (numbered 1-3700).
1967 the 5th Special Forces Mess Association ordered 1,700 knives for presentation.
These were dilivered with Dark blued or Plum colored blade and engraves/etched with SF crest and wording,
5th SPECIAL FORCES GROUP (Abn) VIETNAM.
In 1972 50 SOG knives were ordered and sent to Joint Casualty Resolution Center in Thailand.

There allso exist a SCUBA/DEMO model knife, and there were 39 made.

Books and article about the SOG knife and photos an be found in:

-KNIVES OF THE U.S. SPECIAL FORCES, by Tom Clinton.
-KNIVES OF THE UNITED STATES MILITARY IN VIETNAM, by Mike Silvey.
-UNITED STATES MILITARY COLLECTORS GUIDE, by Gary Boyd and Mike Silvey.
-SPECIAL FORCES OF THE U.S. ARMY, by Ian Sutherland.
-MACV STUDIES AND OBSERVATION GROUP, Volume IV, by Harve Saal.
-in FIGHTING KNIVES Fall 1991, article by, Ben Baker.

I hope that there will be shown more SOG knives in this thread. http://www.usmilitar…tyle_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif

Best regards,

Martin
(Im allways interested in buying SOG knives, mint, used or abused all of interest)

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korkfoto
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My 2 (same type) GoCommas arrived.
They are both pretty sharp and are working fine.
But I could not notice that they have not the same shape…
Not really a deal breaker, but still.

As I cannot attach an image here (even if I read the tutorial of RacoonCity, it doesn’t work), here is a link to an image with both of the knives: https://imgur.com/a/EP7BLBv

teacher
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korkfoto wrote:
My 2 (same type) GoCommas arrived.
They are both pretty sharp and are working fine.
But I could not notice that they have not the same shape…
Not really a deal breaker, but still.

As I cannot attach an image here (even if I read the tutorial of RacoonCity, it doesn’t work), here is a link to an image with both of the knives: https://imgur.com/a/EP7BLBv

.

Fixed the image for you. Smile
Which knife is this a picture of??

Can you post a picture of the whole knives, handles & blades??

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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korkfoto
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Thank you.
This one: https://www.gearbest.com/pocket-knives-folding-knives/pp_009152095568.ht...

The handles are identical but the blades are not.

teacher
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korkfoto wrote:
Thank you.
This one: https://www.gearbest.com/pocket-knives-folding-knives/pp_009152095568.ht...

The handles are identical but the blades are not.

Oh OK…. Thumbs Up
That is strange. I bought 20 of these total, at different times; and they are all identical.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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korkfoto
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Here are more images: https://imgur.com/zCjmt56

teacher
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korkfoto wrote:
Here are more images: https://imgur.com/zCjmt56

All mine are ground like the blade on the left.

The blade on the right does look somewhat deformed & a tiny bit smaller too.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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Muto
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teacher,

Got 2 of these after your glowing endorsement back in January (Thanks for that) and they took quite a while to show up, but anyway here are my observations;

Nice action, razor sharp, clip is not deep carry enough and has lousy profile
They cut skin (mainly my thumb) really fast and well.
This happened while measuring how much the liner lock has to move for the blade to dis-engage (Answer, Not Much:)
Worried about the very small area that gets covered by the liner lock, it is no where near 1/4 of blade width.
Compared to my trusty EDC Kershaw Cyro, it is half the coverage.

I like the knife, just don’t want an un expected trip to the hospital if this lock fails with that Barber’s clever of an edge slamming into the hand.

Hate the clip, I know you re-worked yours and I will need to do the same if I am to EDC this knife. Any pics of that procedure would be awesome as well.
Could you post some pics of the lock against the blade for comparison on your samples please?

Thanks!
Keith

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Yep mine has minimal lock up as well and was just noticing this the other day too. Glad someone has finally mentioned it .

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Ugh, this sucks. Thinking of canceling my order now since I already ordered Ganzo D2 anyway.

teacher
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Personally, I think the lockup is just where it should be. I checked 5 of the ones I have left & they are all about the same. Just as I like them I might add.

Just about the whole face of the liner is securely seated on the angled blade heel. This gives a secure lockup & also allows for years of wear with continuing secure lockup as the face of the locking liner continues across the angled blade heel.

There is nothing “minimal” at all in the lockup of mine.

They are right where they should be for secure lockup now that will also continue through years of use.

As far as one closing on a hand…. I have never figured that out. How is that even gonna happen unless you are hammering on something with the spine of the blade?? Facepalm

Ever heard of a ‘slip joint’?? Wink

@ Muto…. Can’t do pics at the moment. Post a good pic of the lockup of yours & I’ll compare. Beer

Glad you like yours. For me there is zero concern about lockup on mine… for the reasons I mentioned above. That being the end of the lockbar is almost completely resting on the angled blade heel. (85% – 99%)
Opening & closeing it will help wear it in should there be any burs on either lockbar end or angled blade heel.

And as was mentioned all along & by you again…. as is, the clip sucks. It needs TLC to be useful. I’ll post pics when I am again able. But in the meantime, all you need to do is open it up to where it fits over your preferred pocket. Mine being Blue Jeans…. Wink

.
.
NOTE:

If anyone is afraid of their GoComma, PM me… I’ll buy them as long as you have not tried to “sharpened” them. Wink
.
edited for clarity

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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Blackbeard
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If it makes any difference, I have multiple Kershaws where the liner or frame lock is all over the place, meaning some engage far under the tang and some barely, USA and China made, so I’m not sure that’s a good benchmark to judge these. Have you tried a spine whack to see if it fails?

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Note… these pictures are not mine, they are used as examples.

@ muto & whoever…..

The two picture below are fairly representative of the ‘lockup’ my GoCommas have.
About 85% – 99% of the lockbar fully engages the angled heel of the blade on the 5 of mine I checked. IIRC Chris Reeve considers 80% fully acceptable. Good enough for him... good enough for me.
This is referred to as ‘early lockup’ and is GREATLY preferred by me. ymmv

NOTE: Do not be concerned with the thickness of the blade & thickness of lockbar. Be concerned with what percentage of the lockbar engages the blade.

NOTE 2: Of course if you have a knife with a super thin lockbar… it should go without saying THAT IS NOT GOOD. . Big Smile

.
The two pictures below are examples of ‘late lockup’. You will notice the lockbar touches or almost touches the opposite side liner. To me this is in no way desirable & a total deal breaker. This condition is where you will begin to get up & down blade play.

.
The modern linerock was pioneered & patented by Michael Walker in the 1980’s & 90’s.

If anyone is afraid their lock will fail…. they should Test It.

Spine Whack Test

  • Hold the knife in a manner that ‘if’ the lock fails you will not get cut. Give the spine of the blade several good whacks on your knee, a table top, a heavy piece of wood, something substantial.

See for yourself if it fails. No use wondering or speculating… Wink

EDIT: . Just did ‘Spine Whack Test’ on the 5 I mentioned above. All 5 passed with flying colors… solid as a rock. Thumbs Up
Not surprised at all…. Wink .. Beer

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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teacher
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Blackbeard wrote:
If it makes any difference, I have multiple Kershaws where the liner or frame lock is all over the place, meaning some engage far under the tang and some barely, USA and China made, so I’m not sure that’s a good benchmark to judge these. Have you tried a spine whack to see if it fails?
I hear what your saying Blackbeard… Inconsistency. I’ve seen that too sometimes among brands.
One thing I have seen in these 20 Go Commas I got, bought at different times; is consistency.

They are extremely consistent. From the great knife with a fantastic fit n’ finish right down to the crappy clip….. they are consistent. Wink . Thumbs Up

The five I mentioned above all passed the Spine Whack… which did not surprise me at all. Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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Blackbeard
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Thanks for the testing teacher, I still havent got one yet, trying to figure out this dumb new paypal policy, not letting me pay with my balance without some new sign up thing leaving me annoyed, so maybe get one after I figure it out, but too lazy, Big Smile not sure what shenanigans they are up to.

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My pleasure Blackbeard. Thumbs Up .. Just FYI… I whacked the crap out of them too. Big Smile

I have zero concern of improper lockup on any of mine.

Good luck figuring out PayPal, you’ll probably need it. Facepalm . I just use mine to pay for stuff so I thankfully avoided the “pay with a balance & keeping a balance in account stuff”.

Take care… Beer

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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Lightbringer
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Blackbeard wrote:
Thanks for the testing teacher, I still havent got one yet, trying to figure out this dumb new paypal policy, not letting me pay with my balance without some new sign up thing leaving me annoyed, so maybe get one after I figure it out, but too lazy, Big Smile not sure what shenanigans they are up to.

Happened to me, too. Demanded personal info I really didn’t want to give.

Solution: get the debit card. Give the address to be where you work, mum’s house, whatever, where they’ll mail it. Give a bogus SIN (asked only last 4 digits?, forgot). You’ll still get it.

Then you’ll have, say, 35bux on the card when they mail it to you. Use it wherever as a regular CC (up to the balance), or just do a buy from FT, GB, whatever.

If you “pay by debit card” you’ll only be able to spend up to that balance but not a penny more. I had to “top off” one time (was on AX, no PP option, just CC/DC), and they do that in 10buk increments, which I didn’t like (only needed like 1buk to make the buy).

But if you buy from GB/FT and “pay by paypal”, you’ll have the option to “use balance?” and it’ll burn through that first, and then charge only the “excess” to your linked card. New balance on the card will be 0.00 once used up.

At that point, you can use the DC or not as you see fit. Toss a few bux on it to pay for lunch, etc., vs using a CC/DC of your own. This way, you’ll know how much you’ll have available on it as a maximum, and even if lost, no one’ll be able to keep soaking your linked card as long as you have that option turned off.

Ain’t too bad. All that bogus info on that DC, and no one “caught” me yet. LOL

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Muto
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Teacher and all,
Here are the pics , after the pic of the knife closed the next ones are knife #2.
Please understand I am not a knife guy per se, Have maybe 15 but really like this knife and don’t want to give wrong impression that is not a wonderful knife because I believe it to be.
I got clamped by lock failure when I was like 13 by trying to carve name in a tree and was pushing hard trying to dot an “I” and it closed on my fingers, was lucky did not sever ligaments so that is why I am paranoid of good locking mechanisms.

Thanks!
Keith

Gocomma-Knife-001

Gocomma-Knife-004

Gocomma-Knife-007

Gocomma-Knife-008

Gocomma-Knife-009

Gocomma-Knife-010

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Lightbringer
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Now you know why I never ever ever push/pull/crank/twist/anything on a folder. Just got a coupla more cheep fixed-blade knives for s&g, and for when I might have to do something like that.

I never had a folder unexpectedly close on me, but my old Buck(ish) lockback had a sort of hair-trigger. One wrong “lean” trying to push “backwards” (ie, not into the cutting-edge but against the spine) and yeah, it could’ve easily collapsed shut and tried taking off a coupla fingers in the process. Noooooo thanks.

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Blackbeard
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That lockup doesn’t look ideal, I have a Kershaw Leek that’s similar, but it’s a frame lock and probably sturdier, and you do put pressure on it since it’s on the outside when you grip….that one does look a bit iffy tho…maybe try those spine whacks tests with some thick work gloves on, or keep it for light duty stuff like mail and package opening if you feel it may fail, the width of the lockbar that engages the tang is quite wide for a liner lock, kinda weird, looks more like a frame lock.

Blackbeard
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Thanks for the info lightbringer, right now I’ll just be withdrawing my balance and if I use paypal it will just go through the bank. I’m guessing they weren’t making enough money the old way(seriously?) so they scrapped it

teacher
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Muto wrote:

Teacher and all,
Here are the pics , after the pic of the knife closed the next ones are knife #2.
Please understand I am not a knife guy per se, Have maybe 15 but really like this knife and don’t want to give wrong impression that is not a wonderful knife because I believe it to be.
I got clamped by lock failure when I was like 13 by trying to carve name in a tree and was pushing hard trying to dot an “I” and it closed on my fingers, was lucky did not sever ligaments so that is why I am paranoid of good locking mechanisms.

Thanks!
Keith

@ Muto & others

Those are great pics my friend. Beer

Those two do lockup a bit ‘earlier’ than mine.

There is something else that looks slightly different to… but I can’t put my finger on what it is. Facepalm

I've loaned my camera to a buddy but I am gonna get it back & take some closeups that match yours & see if I can tell if their is a slight difference or I'm crazy. Big Smile .. The safe bet is on crazy. Wink

Personally, I would have no concern over using either of those.
‘But’…. that being said, I only cut with my knives. I do not use them as a pry bar, screwdriver, hammer, or chisel….. I cut with them. Wink

I might take a bit more liberty with a fixed blade if need be…. but not much. Unless it is an ESEE 5 or 6 of course….. Big Smile

I think with a bit of opening & closing your two will wear in & be just right.

However…. If you want to be rid of them I will be glad to buy them.

I can understand your pause after reading your story about “dotting the i “.. Shocked . Facepalm

Glad that was not worse than it was… Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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Blackbeard
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I only found 2 knives in my stash that have a similar interior liner lock that looks like a frame lock(I’m referencing the 3rd pic on page one of this thread, and the cutout in the liner lock that is opposite the middle scale screw), a Gerber and a Kershaw Link, but all the liner locks are much thinner, this Gocomma is the thickest interior liner lock, is it a heavy knife?

Just mentioning this for Muto, looks like it would be hard to make that lock fail with that thick gauge.

teacher
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Blackbeard wrote:
I only found 2 knives in my stash that have a similar interior liner lock that looks like a frame lock(I’m referencing the 3rd pic on page one of this thread, and the cutout in the liner lock that is opposite the middle scale screw), a Gerber and a Kershaw Link, but all the liner locks are much thinner, this Gocomma is the thickest interior liner lock, is it a heavy knife?

Just mentioning this for Muto, looks like it would be hard to make that lock fail with that thick gauge.

Your talking about this one Blackbeard??

There’s this one with a 7.7cm D2 blade and a G10 handle:

https://www.gearbest.com/pocket-knives-folding-knives/pp_009152095568.html

Your right… the lockbar is very thick & robust, just as you describe. Thumbs Up

The knife below is the same way… robust lockbar.

Infact, upon comparing; the lock bar on both of these is much more heavy duty than the Ganzo FH-11 I have

And finally this one with a 8.9cm D2 blade and a G10 handle:

https://www.gearbest.com/pocket-knives-folding-knives/pp_009780560071.html

FI…. the above knife is a great one too. . Thumbs Up

Edit… I forgot to answer your question about “heavy” Blackbeard. I don’t consider either one overly heavy. They just have a good solid feel, if that makes any sense to you.

The one pictured above has a more solid feel to me than the FH-11. And… “it will cut” … as well as hold an edge.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

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Pete7874
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Speaking of locking mechanisms, here is a pic of the lock on my FH21. Being new to folding knives and this being my first one, I don’t really know if it’s good or not, but there seems to be a good amount of overlap.

Omega_17
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The only way to feel the quality is by fidgeting with it, not by looking at pictures of the position of the locking liner.
But on the pictures you can see that most knifes don’t have a symmetric grounding and this is far more important for a knife. Almost every reviewer don’t even look at this…

Lightbringer
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Blackbeard wrote:
Thanks for the info lightbringer, right now I’ll just be withdrawing my balance and if I use paypal it will just go through the bank. I’m guessing they weren’t making enough money the old way(seriously?) so they scrapped it

Thing is, any more “refunds” and the like, and that goes into the card, so don’t toss it.

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