FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

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ttylamg
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bmengineer wrote:

This light doesn’t have any third party drivers available right now. It’s designed to run three LEDs in parallel all at once, so the multicolored board you linked wouldn’t really work.


I would like to replace both the emitter and driver.

Arriving soon C8+ (osram mod) -
FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
Several laser pointers
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Several pocket knifes

Lane32x
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JC (from JC Customs) is putting boards with secondary emitters in the FW3A. I know he’s been recompiling Anduril to allow control over the secondaries.

Not sure what board he’s using though.

Link to pic (can’t get it to embed, sorry)
https://imgur.com/gallery/zAol51B

contactcr
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It’s the mtn electronics triple board. Afaik he either doesn’t share his source or no one that owns one has asked for it. We have discussed it already

Lane32x
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Supposedly it’s just a flag that needs to be set in the source code. I haven’t downloaded it myself in order to see how easy it is to read (and compile).

KawiBoy1428
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Had a extra FW3A carcass/parts laying around…. guppydrv3 and one of Neven’s lighted tail caps…

Meh… it will make a decent knock around/work light… Big Smile

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

ttylamg
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I am surprised, no flashlight out there uses triple led and has same form factor?

Arriving soon C8+ (osram mod) -
FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
Several laser pointers
————————————
Several pocket knifes

dropman
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Made stainless steel button ring for protecting against accidental activation.

Gunga
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Wow! How did you make that!

dropman
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I have big 60 year old lathe at work. Used piece of stainless steel bar. Will glue it to flashlight and see how I like it.

Gunga
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How can you make more! I need one!

JaredM
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Gunga wrote:
How can you make more! I need one!

For anyone who may have missed it.. there’s really a simple, cheap, and effective switch boot mod for reducing – or in my case eliminating – accidental activation.

Carefully disassemble the tailcap, keeping track of the ‘nubin’ (tiny, tiny plastic cylinder) but removing it. Then filling the cavity in the rubber boot with a thin rubber disc. I used an random o-ring and sliced piece of silicon wire insulation. I’ve found the best results with a flush fill level. I can imagine slicing a pencil eraser with a razor blade would be a simple DIY option for almost anyone willing to attempt the mod. Reversible and nearly free. Quiets the switch a bit too, but YMMV

Joshk
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After mine tipped and dented a table top I made it a 3D printed bumper. Now it lands soft enough to not leave a dent.

Gunga
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JaredM wrote:
Gunga wrote:
How can you make more! I need one!

For anyone who may have missed it.. there’s really a simple, cheap, and effective switch boot mod for reducing – or in my case eliminating – accidental activation.

Carefully disassemble the tailcap, keeping track of the ‘nubin’ (tiny, tiny plastic cylinder) but removing it. Then filling the cavity in the rubber boot with a thin rubber disc. I used an random o-ring and sliced piece of silicon wire insulation. I’ve found the best results with a flush fill level. I can imagine slicing a pencil eraser with a razor blade would be a simple DIY option for almost anyone willing to attempt the mod. Reversible and nearly free. Quiets the switch a bit too, but YMMV

Really? This really works?

ttylamg
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Had a extra FW3A carcass/parts laying around…. guppydrv3 and one of Neven’s lighted tail caps… Meh… it will make a decent knock around/work light… Big Smile
Does it turn on? What carcass parts did you keep and what did you swap out ? Maybe I can copy or we can combine :). My parts might be still good but just don’t know how to troubleshoot it.

Arriving soon C8+ (osram mod) -
FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
Several laser pointers
————————————
Several pocket knifes

KawiBoy1428
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ttylamg wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Had a extra FW3A carcass/parts laying around…. guppydrv3 and one of Neven’s lighted tail caps… Meh… it will make a decent knock around/work light… Big Smile
Does it turn on? What carcass parts did you keep and what did you swap out ? Maybe I can copy or we can combine :). My parts might be still good but just don’t know how to troubleshoot it.
Used the driver, mcpcb out of a FW3A to make the FW3/NovaTac Yep the push button FW3 works well even with the Lumintop 18350 tube.. If you need parts (fast) get in touch with Victor Zhou at Lumintop.. Neal is a busy man…

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Gunga
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That’s really cool. So anduril Novatac? Dang. I want one

KawiBoy1428
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Gunga wrote:
That’s really cool. So anduril Novatac? Dang. I want one

Thanks it is very cool and tough, it needs to be where I work… You can still find them on E-Bay sometimes dirt cheap.. but so far just the silver/gold aluminum bezels, the Black bezel is SS and they polish up nicely… wish I could get a hold of a Black NovaTac…or even something similar… I made extra pills and purchased extra drivers and boards… just in case.. Wink

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

JaredM
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@Gunga

Yes. I’ll do up a small post with a how to.. check back later.

UPDATE

I’ve revisited the design for creating a nubbin’ replacement that is simpler and (hopefully) universal. I had gone through many trial and error iterations and just stopped once I found a working combination. Turns out only one part of that configuration is needed. That’s the o-ring. 1/16” nominal thickness a 3/16” ID. Industry size -008.

Just remove the nubbin’ and insert said o-ring into the nubbin’ cavity of the switch boot. Carefully reassemble tailcap following guidelines mentioned in multiple fw3a threads. Enjoy the switch actuation that should have always been.

I did a quick search and they can be found on eBay for $2.50 per 10 shipped to US. Hardware or automotive stores will likely have something suitable as well.

Gunga
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Looking forward to it!

Tldd
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:

Is that a 2-way clip for FW3A?

BOO5TED
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Tldd wrote:
Is that a 2-way clip for FW3A?

Yes, check the drop down list.

https://www.nealsgadgets.com/collections/blf/products/fw3a-tube-bezel-cl...

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

xevious
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BOO5TED wrote:
So was playing around with the bezel again, planned to polish it to a mirror shine but didn’t like how it was turning out.

The aluminum is a little lighter in color than the titanium in pics but in person it’s almost identical.


Wow, that’s gorgeous! Amazing. Reminds me of HDS, yet, superior because of that amazing Anduril UI. Thumbs Up
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
FW3/Ti BUG !{width:100%}https://i.postimg.cc/BZhLVcLW/IMG-1122.jpg!
I am… salivating over this. Super mod! 18350? Link to your mod thread? Would love to see the details. Beer
Agro
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There are 18350 tubes available from Neal now, though grey alu only.

BOO5TED
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xevious wrote:
Wow, that’s gorgeous! Amazing. Reminds me of HDS, yet, superior because of that amazing Anduril UI. Thumbs Up

Thanks, that’s exactly what I was going for.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

id30209
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Used the driver, mcpcb out of a FW3A to make the FW3/NovaTac

 

Can you please advise what size of a copper slug is needed?

Have one Novatac, dead, coming my way and i wanted to do the same thing but i have no lathe.

A guy i know has but i need exact measurements... if you could...

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KawiBoy1428
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id30209 wrote:

KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Used the driver, mcpcb out of a FW3A to make the FW3/NovaTac

 


Can you please advise what size of a copper slug is needed?


Have one Novatac, dead, coming my way and i wanted to do the same thing but i have no lathe.


A guy i know has but i need exact measurements… if you could…


Better you strip your head out when you get it, then decide if this is the route you want to go…

There is quite a bit of lathe work the way I did mine… but then I can make different light engines and just swap them in and out… Wink

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JaredM
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Gunga wrote:
Looking forward to it!

Previous post updated. I tried the pencil eraser idea and while it was better than a stock nubbin’ setup, the o-ring really is the trick. What’s needed is pressure to be applied close to the perimeter of the diaphragm switch. This effectively reduces the lever arm/mechanical advantage of the switch, thereby increasing activation pressure. Also, since it’s rubber and not hard plastic, the actuation is also quieter. I’m going to suggest Neal makes these available in his store, or better yet, included in the spare parts bag.

ttylamg
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any local SF bay area modder? looking for help on my fw3a. Please pm me. thanks.

Arriving soon C8+ (osram mod) -
FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (W aux TIR) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
Several laser pointers
————————————
Several pocket knifes

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