FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

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id30209
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Better you strip your head out when you get it, then decide if this is the route you want to go... p. There is quite a bit of lathe work the way I did mine... but then I can make different light engines and just swap them in and out... ;)

 

So it wasn't just copper pill added...?

Can you shoot me more details and specs in PM?

WTB Titanium 4sevens Quarks & Jetbeam TCR1

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id30209 wrote:

KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Better you strip your head out when you get it, then decide if this is the route you want to go… p. There is quite a bit of lathe work the way I did mine… but then I can make different light engines and just swap them in and out… Wink

 


So it wasn’t just copper pill added…?


Can you shoot me more details and specs in PM?


Take a close look at the pic…driver retainer ring at the bottom, so the head was bored to .900” (to which saves the retainer ring and bezel threads) and the aluminum pill .899” the copper pill was something I had laying around, the aluminum was counter sunk and the back of the pill was stepped and then pressed into the aluminum pill, the whole package push fits into the head and the glass o-ring and bezel press everything together. The original heat sink wouldn’t make contact with the back of the FW3A driver….just a different way of and easier for me of doing it as compared to the original design…. you’ll see when you strip yours.. Sorta like a P60 drop in…if you will… Big Smile

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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Alrighty then...this is going to be challenging!

WTB Titanium 4sevens Quarks & Jetbeam TCR1

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JaredM wrote:
Gunga wrote:
Looking forward to it!

Previous post updated. I tried the pencil eraser idea and while it was better than a stock nubbin’ setup, the o-ring really is the trick. What’s needed is pressure to be applied close to the perimeter of the diaphragm switch. This effectively reduces the lever arm/mechanical advantage of the switch, thereby increasing activation pressure. Also, since it’s rubber and not hard plastic, the actuation is also quieter. I’m going to suggest Neal makes these available in his store, or better yet, included in the spare parts bag.

Woah. I had a few orings available. I dunno exactly how I feel. That is much – much stiffer. I think I would want something a touch softer. That said, I’m going to run this mod in an edc FW3A and see how it goes. Maybe a thin rubber piece in the middle to soften it up. Definitely no accidental activation though! Thanks for the cool tip!

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Small update. I added a couple layers of glow sticker punched to 3/16” for a thin shim. This softens the feel just a touch. Now it’s firm and is unlikely to activate accidentally but not too firm. Love it. I think I can edc this now much more comfortably without lockout.

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Gunga wrote:
Small update. I added a couple layers of glow sticker punched to 3/16” for a thin shim. This softens the feel just a touch. Now it’s firm and is unlikely to activate accidentally but not too firm. Love it. I think I can edc this now much more comfortably without lockout.

I’ve ran it both ways and also prefer it with a center spacer, though the difference for me is minimal. I’ve been pocketing this light nearly everyday since I’ve made this mod and seriously can’t remember any incidents of accidental activation. I’d be surprised if your experience is any different.

Glad it worked out for you. Beer

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Great great suggestion!

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JaredM wrote:
@Gunga

Yes. I’ll do up a small post with a how to.. check back later.

UPDATE

I’ve revisited the design for creating a nubbin’ replacement that is simpler and (hopefully) universal. I had gone through many trial and error iterations and just stopped once I found a working combination. Turns out only one part of that configuration is needed. That’s the o-ring. 1/16” nominal thickness a 3/16” ID. Industry size -008.

Just remove the nubbin’ and insert said o-ring into the nubbin’ cavity of the switch boot. Carefully reassemble tailcap following guidelines mentioned in multiple fw3a threads. Enjoy the switch actuation that should have always been.

I did a quick search and they can be found on eBay for $2.50 per 10 shipped to US. Hardware or automotive stores will likely have something suitable as well.

!{width:100%}https://i.imgur.com/g7v0YDx.jpg!


Thank you, Jared!

I’d gotten used to doing lockouts on my FW3A. It’s pretty easy to do… but sometimes I forget. I decided to give your o-ring swap-in a try, as I have a mini o-ring kit that has a 3/16” ID sized one. I hadn’t taken out the nubbin before… so small. So easy to lose. Mine was in pretty tightly though. Anyway, I substituted the o-ring and wow, what a difference. The button is really tight now. Can’t activate from angled press. The only downside is that the click sound is like 3 times as loud now. It’ll take some time to get used to it. But the implicit safeguard for stopping accidental activation seems worth it. Thumbs Up

EDIT: OK, I went for a day with the 3/16th ID o-ring and decided it was too firm. I stepped down to a 5/32nd o-ring. NOW, we’re talking. This is better. Still tight enough to prevent accidental activation, but requires less pressure & it’s about 30% quieter than with the 3/16th ID.

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I’m glad others are finding this helpful! For me, if it weren’t for figuring out a solution to the accidental activation, I would have gave up carrying the fw3a as my edc.

It should be noted that I have very large hands and strong fingers. I often don’t keep that in consideration. The 3/16” o-ring w/o a center spacer is “stiff” in my book. For others, it may be unbearably so. Both of you have built upon the concept and adapted it to your taste, so good work to y’all as well. I’m happy there is a tune-able and simple solution to a problem that can be a deal breaker to an otherwise great design.

As for the noise level of the switch, I’ve had very mixed – almost random – results during experimentation. The smallest tweak sometimes will take it from nearly silent to very loud. Question

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Love

SS bezel and deep carry clip bought from Neal at nealsgadgets.com Wink
GITD gasket bought from CRX Wink

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

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Nice one MascaratumB Thumbs Up Looks like it’ll get some use.

 

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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
Nice one MascaratumB Thumbs Up Looks like it’ll get some use.

Thanks Wink
Yes it will! I love it! I guess this is one of the things I’ve been looking for for a while now!

BTW, I didn’t think I would like the SS bezel so much, but it looks great Wink

And the double sized deep carry clip is great! I’ve been carrying it in a “cargo” pants side pocket with the bezel up and it is great!!!

Another thing…The FW3A is even smaller than the D4 (1st batch) Shocked Love these small powerhouses Crown

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

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I have an interesting anecdote. When I did the oring mod to my early aluminum FW3A, it was super stiff and I needed to add a spacer to soften the feel. When I did the same mod to my FW3T, it made the switch a bit stiffer and more consistent, but definitely not super stiff at all. Not as edc secure (ie prevention of accidental activation) but much better than stock.

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I’ve improved the deep carry clip a bit, it’s perfect now. It is a pity that underneath is a copper color Big Smile

Metal accessories do not react to iron chloride, the bezel only got interesting pits:

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has anyone put luxeon V in their FW3A and measured output? not V2’s

dropman
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Made modifications to anduril firmware source and now I find the light much more edc friendly:

Removed strobes.

Removed ramp blips.

Disabled FET, so it should be regulatet at 2.8A now.

Faster ramping speed.

I am adding link to compiled firmware file (based on latest Anduril from TK firmware repository with my little modifications) if someone is interested. You will probably need to make modifications to ramp setup - lowest level "1" (one click) and highest level "90" (one click). And tweak some other settings.

If it works for me, doesnt mean it will work for you, so no liability or warranty. Use at your own risk and have fun.

https://gofile.io/?c=3wDlCj

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So great to see so many accessories becoming available for the FW3A. I wish a stainless steel bezel with trits was part of it… looks like one has to go with the FW21 to get something close.

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Found this on ETSY – haven’t seen it before on here – not my cuppa tea, but nonetheless it’s well done.

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G0OSE wrote:
Found this on ETSY – haven’t seen it before on here – not my cuppa tea, but nonetheless it’s well done.
!https://i.etsystatic.com/20761033/r/il/f51427/2010321000/il_794xN.201032...!
WOW. Link to the original listing? Just curious as to what kind of pricing is being floated. Looks like an Indiana Jones artifact.
EDIT: Found it. HERE.
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Is Etsy down?

I cannot get it to load in Chrome or Opera, and I usually can get it to work in Opera on a daily basis.

 

EDIT:

Nevermind.

I loaded Etsy in Firefox, and now it works in Opera like usual.

 

That custom flashlight is pricey!

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raccoon city wrote:

Is Etsy down?


I cannot get it to load in Chrome or Opera, and I usually can get it to work in Opera on a daily basis.


 


EDIT:


Nevermind.


I loaded Etsy in Firefox, and now it works in Opera like usual.


 


That custom flashlight is pricey!

I reckon quite a bit of work went into it – I must admit I didn’t even look at the price lol!! Still, handmade work like that is worth paying for, that would have taken days to do, even weeks maybe – I’d rather that than 10% brighter and someone’s name scribbled on the outside.
No offence intended, just my take on it/preference. Smile
Shame he’s not on here (maybe he is…)- that would defo win a prize in the ‘handmade light’ compo I think lol!

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After seeing some of the more extensive mods some people are undertaking with the FW3A, I started to think about what might be possible… without going too far overboard. I wondered about the feasibility of an FW3A Lightsaber. Thoughts?

Of course, it’s a rough “fantasy” prototype (photo edit). I would make the front end flange much more subtle. You don’t want a big lip on the end catching on things.

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xevious wrote:
After seeing some of the more extensive mods some people are undertaking with the FW3A, I started to think about what might be possible… without going too far overboard. I wondered about the feasibility of an FW3A Lightsaber. Thoughts?

Of course, it’s a rough prototype. I would make the front end flange much more subtle. You don’t want a big lip on the end catching on things.


Oh no xevious don’t show me that lol (I already have this on the way with the intention of it…one day) Lenovo Jedi saber
IF I get bored with it, that’s exactly whats happening Big Smile These were quite pricey at first, but a metal saber for £29.99 is BEGGING to be modded! IF only I had the skillz!

I did hope I could tempt CRX into doing one – either he is and not letting on, or he’s not lol, I PRAY the first option! of course I’ll have to go to Scotland, track him down and have a duel for it! (to the death naturally) Steve

Oh and btw, that bottom one in your photo’s, if anyone will make me one I’ll literally remove a finger for it. Silly Or maybe swap a one of my black series stormtooper helmets.
I reckon if you used the 21700 version (but use an 18650) you could make that centre bit on a lathe…. to get the depth of grooves.
‘This IS the flashlight I’ve been looking for – move along!’

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^ Thanks — it’s actually quite feasible. I tried to make it based mostly on the FW3A with just some “accents.” You could mix/match parts from the raw aluminum & copper FW3A. The bezel is a separate part that could be easily turned on a lathe as a complete part, or stainless steel “rings” attached to an existing raw aluminum bezel. The body “fins” could be created a few different ways. I’d see a “sleeve” created that could slide down over the tube. With rubber backing it would have some cushioning for a snug fit. It’s all very, very doable.

One other thing I’d do is remove the clip and replace it with the steel ring being sold. Then just attach a triangular metal ring to it to simulate the one on the prop lightsaber.

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xevious wrote:
^ Thanks — it’s actually quite feasible. I tried to make it based mostly on the FW3A with just some “accents.” You could mix/match parts from the raw aluminum & copper FW3A. The bezel is a separate part that could be easily turned on a lathe as a complete part, or stainless steel “rings” attached to an existing raw aluminum bezel. The body “fins” could be created a few different ways. I’d see a “sleeve” created that could slide down over the tube. With rubber backing it would have some cushioning for a snug fit. It’s all very, very doable.

One other thing I’d do is remove the clip and replace it with the steel ring being sold. Then just attach a triangular metal ring to it to simulate the one on the prop lightsaber.

It has to be ally in the centre though – no compromise lol! Wink

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G0OSE wrote:
…that would defo win a prize in the ‘handmade light’ compo I think lol!

Totally! I hope this gets the creative juices flowing for some….

Whilst I like different types of aesthetics I’ve never understood why big bulky skulls were a thing Question

 

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Well, tomorrow in the post an engraver is arriving – I used to do engraving on military parts many years ago by hand (like hundreds of thousands of items) if I re-find my old skills, an all over engraved light may (BIG may) could be in the pipeline sometime! I have 2 x Utorch A6 clones to destroy practice on. Wink

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I made another cap for the ti/cu and swapped the clips over. I’m liking the colour scheme on both of these now.

 

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G0OSE wrote:
Well, tomorrow in the post an engraver is arriving – I used to do engraving on military parts many years ago by hand (like hundreds of thousands of items) if I re-find my old skills, an all over engraved light may (BIG may) could be in the pipeline sometime! I have 2 x Utorch A6 clones to destroy practice on. Wink
Excellent! If you have photos of some of your earlier work that could be related to the kind you’re thinking of doing on flashlights, please post. Smile
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xevious wrote:
G0OSE wrote:
Well, tomorrow in the post an engraver is arriving – I used to do engraving on military parts many years ago by hand (like hundreds of thousands of items) if I re-find my old skills, an all over engraved light may (BIG may) could be in the pipeline sometime! I have 2 x Utorch A6 clones to destroy practice on. Wink
Excellent! If you have photos of some of your earlier work that could be related to the kind you’re thinking of doing on flashlights, please post. Smile

Well, it was just serial numbers – but that said it looks easy (or so I thought) but when it’s got to be done to a standard, and legible – doing it is another kettle of fish. Took me a good year to master just writing neatly really.
I am good at drawing so I’m hoping the 2 will meet in the middle somewhere! This inspired me to try – link

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