My first triple XM-L build - Mag 1.5C

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

Taking all of my inspiration from dorpmuller's (aka Rich's) Super Mag build, I decided to do my first rather expensive build. Be sure to check out Rich's build if you haven't, as I have a lot of respect for the wiring he did after putting mine together (and mine is much simpler!). My goal was run run 3 x XM-L's without having to run Li-Ions in series - I'm still too scared to go that route ;)

Here are the parts I purchased:

  • 3C Maglite (Amazon.com)
  • 3 x Ledil Boom reflectors for MC-E, 20 degree spot (Digikey.com)
  • 3 x Cree XM-L neutral-white star (Ledsupply.com)
  • Perfect Tri-Start (PTS2) heatsink for C mag (Sandwich Shoppe)
  • UCL lens (lighthound.com)
  • 26650 IMR battery (TacticalHID)
  • 8x7135 driver board, and 4 4x7135 slave boards (illuminationsupply.com)
  • 20 and 22 gauge silicone jacketed wire (epbuddy.com)
  • Deans Micro Plug 2R (local hobby store, can be found on epbuddy.com as "micro connections")

My goal was to hit 2.8 amps per emitter, so 8.4 total, using just the IMR battery. Having not heeded Rich's advice, I can only get 5.5 amps max on the IMR. With all of the wiring there must be too much of a voltage drop. Using 4 Tenergy Centura nimh batteries gets me to 8.4, but I haven't tested it for more than a few seconds.

First I modified the stock Mag switch to prevent it from messing with my multi-mode driver (just google the C mag switch and you'll find more info about it).

Then I connected all of the driver boards. I could have just purchased 3 x 8x7135 boards, but this was slightly cheaper and I didn't feel like wasting the extra attiny13's by having to remove them.

Then I worked on mounting the LEDs

Then I had to grind away at the bottom of the reflectors to get them to fit with the wiring.

I glued them down with super glue making sure NOT to touch the LED dome. Of course it pretty much set instantly, so two of the LEDs aren't centered perfectly but I'm too lazy to redo it.

I sent the Mag C tube out to Jesus from CPF to cut down and re-thread it to fit the 26650. I didn't want to pay him an extra $25 to bore it out to fit the 26650 thinking it would be easy to do on my own. Well, it took me hours. Since Dremel bits aren't long enough, and I couldn't find a cheap sanding drum to mount on a drill, I just made one myself. I basically took a bit extension, wrapped it in tape, then using tape wrapped sand paper around it. It wasn't until after inhaling a good amount of anodizing and aluminum that I came up with the ingenious idea to mount the hose from my vacuum behind Mag tube as I bored it. After test fitting, sanding, test fitting, sanding...the IMR finally fit.

Now I went to town on the bezel (another pain in the ass). To get the anodizing off I ended up taking my wire wheel to it. After that I various grit sand paper, a file, and my Dremel sanding drum to make the notches. It's not perfect, and I haven't even put clear on it, but I like the way it looks.

The sink is meant to thread into the head, but this left too much of a gap between the reflectors and the lens. Plus, threading it down in the head, no matter how I look at it, will cause the wiring to get all twisted up. To fix this I just found some stock washers at the hardware store -- they worked perfectly! Now the lens and bezel hold the drop-in in place.

Here is the MESS of wiring. I normally sink my driver boards, but in this case:

1. I didn't have the room

2. I wanted to have access to the attiny13A microcontroller so that I can flash it with new programs if I develop/find a better one in the future (or if I want to change up the mode sequence, brightness, etc.).

That exposed wire is just the ground wire, so if it comes in contact with the body it's alright. I actually used gray automotive RTV to hold the drivers in place as DX never wanted to fulfill my order for Fujik thermal compound . You can see the Deans Micro Plug there too which actually worked out really well. There might be a slight voltage drop across it, but it's nothing compared to the JST connectors that I tried out from EP Buddy -- they just had too much resistance causing the amps to drop down around 4.5.

Anyways, my next step is to have Jesus cut down a 4C Mag tube I have sitting around to turn it into an extender to allow me to use 4 x Nimh batteries when I really want to push it :)

So far I'm really happy with it, even though this light is all about flood when I really enjoy lights that throw. It really is a yard sweeper as it lights up my entire back yard while still getting a good amount of distance. This isn't something that I'm going to be keeping in my glove box, junk drawer, or night stand -- it's really just a fun light to have around to either impress fellow nerds, or make my non-nerd friends shake their head at me :)

- Jon

2

Oh, I forgot to say, but this was the first time working with silicone wiring. I couldn't find/afford teflon wiring, so I went with the silicone. I don't know why this stuff isn't more popular. It's super heat resistant and very flexible when it has a high strand count. The only downside is that it is very easy to cut/tear, but for my lights that doesn't matter. I was sure to buy plenty so that I can use it in all of my future builds.

3

Wow. What a nice build, complete with pics !!!

I really like the Dean's connector, as well as the use of RTV.

Great job.

4

Cool .

5

Very nice! 8)

6

Lookin good! Heck, your soldering is way better than I could ever do on a board. You might try Ebay for the teflon wire. I buy small quantities there from time to time. Sometimes there are deals on it.

7

Thanks guys. This is the best $30 (plus shipping) I've ever spent (although I say that about a lot of stuff) - http://www.circuitspecialists.com/soldering-stations-csi-station1a.html. I even use the free multi-meter that came with it.

8

Very nice price, looks a LOT like my Aoyue station ( Paid lot more but it´s great ).

9

Looks like a nice build, but I do not see any resistance mods to the tailspring. I would solder a copper wire from where the battery sits to where the spring seats and also treat the switch with deoxit. I have had lights that it makes a pretty big difference in current draw.

10

Hey... looks good!

I did a 1C also... to tell you the truth, the visual difference between the 5A and 10A lights is not that much when I check them both outside at night.

I did Masha's (CPF) human lathe method to cut it down for one 26650. I don't bother with boring-I just strip the covering from the battery ad it sucks right in with that tiny suction sound-perfect!

On tailcaps: I add a copper braid and solder a copper washer to the end of the spring to make solid contact. I also take a Q-tip and treat surfaces with Deoxit. Makes a difference.

I love those Ledils... to me they still throw good with real flood-not just "useful spill," which is another way of saying the "spill isn't worth a s**t but I don't wanna admit it!"

Don't the LED Supply neutrals have a nice tint though?

Rich

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Oh, BTW, if you want to chrome out that bezel, sand it with #600 and 1000 grit paper, some 0000 steel wool, and follow up with Flitz polish. You will be amazed!

And thanks for linking me-some new folks need to see that.

Rich

12

Well, bad news. I went to try to flash a new program on the microcontroller, and it wouldn't connect correctly. So I tried turning the light on, and nothing. No matter what I did, I couldn't connect to the MCU to flash it. The light as been sitting unused for a few weeks, but somehow the MCU must have died.

So, I decided to start ripping out the driver boards. Then I pulled off the reflectors, and in doing so, but a nice big gouge in one of the XM-L domes

I think it still can be used, just will have an ugly beam. Now, what are my options? Can I direct drive 3 XM-Ls in parallel off of a IMR? Off of 3 x C NimH? Otherwise I may just tear everything off and sell what can be sold (heatsink after cleaning it up, mag host, and 2 XM-Ls).

I'll just say, I had trouble falling asleep last night, haha.

13

Unless you use an aspheric, I doubt you'll even notice the damage to the dome.

14

Yeah, that's true. I'm just going to try direct driving them in parallel with the IMR and hope the tailcap, switch, and wiring resistance is enough to prevent them from going "pop". As it stood before, the 7135's weren't even in full regulation due to too little voltage, so I'm thinking this might work. If not, the heatsink and host will be up for sale.

15

Oh, crap-what a shame... why not just wire in a replacement driver board? You don't have to do all 3. With the Ledils, you'll still have a good beam.

I wouldn't risk an IMR with no driver... I killed a couple of emitters trying that.

If you do decide to sell, put me in first for the host, but I think you should fix it.

Rich

16

Thanks Rich. I got my butt in gear and removed the MCU, and crudely re-soldered everything back up. Working great now. Mattthemuppet got me one of the Reginas, and it really does have a decent spot. I'm considering switching over to those, but they are a little taller and with the connector I'm using the heat sink can't really fit any further in the head. We'll see.

17

Alright, thanks again to Mattthemuppet, I ordered some more Reginas, bored them out by hand (really easy) and they fit absolutely perfectly on the XM-Ls. They actually kind of snap on, because the hole is just a bit smaller than the board the emitter is on. It does have a ring around the hotspot, but I'm still impressed. Its hotspot is about twice as big as my MCU-C88 XM-L, and while not as bright in the center, it just puts out a ton of light.