MF01 Mini / MT07- Mod/Upgrade - Copper Heatsink Cover Plate - 2nd batch available soon - 3rd batch planned

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AmericanDissent
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I will take 1 please.

man of light
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gecco wrote:
If I have the lamp and the copper plate, I consider whether I should use a graphite cooling pad instead of the MX4 paste because of the mess when I open the lamp again, what do you think. Graphite cooling pad should conduct better than a thermopad?

As Dr. Phillip has already explained, graphite cooling pads are electrically conductive, so not optimally suited for this application.

gecco wrote:
What is the distance between the copper plate and the housing?

If you mean the distance between the outer circumference diameter of the heatsink plate and the head body, there is only a gap of 0.2 – 0.3 mm in the production version of it.

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Alvaro52021
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Could you Hang the plans and measurements of the copper plate in the forum?
Thank you.

nobody
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Ok, so I’m going to buy some thermal paste (maybe like the MX4). I see a lot of area to cover and some looks heavily applied in the pictures. How much do I actually need. Will a 4gram tube be enough?  An 8gram tube? And whatever paste I get should not be electrically conductive (even minimally) correct?  Please excuse my inexperience in this type of thing. 

Day_Light
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\Interested in the second batch for 3

man of light
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Alvaro52021 wrote:
Could you Hang the plans and measurements of the copper plate in the forum? Thank you.

Do you mean a technical drawing with full dimensions? Or what kind of measurements?

nobody wrote:
Ok, so I’m going to buy some thermal paste (maybe like the MX4). I see a lot of area to cover and some looks heavily applied in the pictures. How much do I actually need. Will a 4gram tube be enough? An 8gram tube? And whatever paste I get should not be electrically conductive (even minimally) correct? Please excuse my inexperience in this type of thing.

You will need only a tiny bit of it, approx less then 0.5g per heatsink. With a 4g tube I was able to mount three cpu coolers and four times a MF01 Mini heatsink plate.
Yes, it must be a non-electrically conductive type, but most types of thermal paste are not electrically conductive anyway.

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Alvaro52021
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Yes, a technical drowing with its dimension. I would be grateful. Thank you.

nobody
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Thanks!

man of light
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Alvaro52021 wrote:
Yes, a technical drowing with its dimension. I would be grateful. Thank you.

I’ve updated the post #1 and postet the currently valid drawing for the production version. Now the project gets kind of “open source” status. Wink

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Alvaro52021
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Okey, thank you man of light!!!!!

Tarvos
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If you happen to have an extra, I will take it
Thanks, Steve

man of light
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Tarvos wrote:
If you happen to have an extra, I will take it Thanks, Steve

2nd batch is full now, but I will continue to collect interests (post #2) for the case somebody jumps off or the supplier will be able to deliver a few more.

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Day_Light
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Hi

I’m interested for 2 for the 2nd or 3rd batch.

elwood
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I’m interested in one. Thanks

Coaster
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Mine arrived today. Thanks!

Now to hunt down my thermal paste…

P.S. Make sure you dig the isolation stickers out of the package. I forgot and nearly threw them away.

dr.peyote
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I’m interested in one. Thanks Smile

omegathai
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1 pcs. I am Interested

Valery
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Thank you very much, man of light, this is a good job!

Chinaheart
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I'm Interested for 2 

mukenukem
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Please put me on the list for another 3. There is a deal on banggood for 41€ and I completed the gang. Now I got every color…..

Hello. My name is Muk and I am a flashoholic…..

noboneshotdog
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I got my light yesterday and my heat sink today. The heat sink works perfect and renders great sustained output. Thanks a lot M O L!

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

noboneshotdog
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As a side note. I used Arctic Paste and not thermal pads and I could not be happier with the results. Significant improvement! Thumbs Up

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

vaau839
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Interested in 1, thanks

Asmartik
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A bit late, I know…. but would be very interrested for 1.

Thank you

middle age man
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The copper heatsink arrived yesterday. I applied the isolation stickers and slathered the areas specified in Post 1 with thermal paste – Cooler MasterGel Maker Nano – https://www.eteknix.com/cooler-master-mastergel-maker-nano-review/ The copper heatsink slotted in precisely.

A few hours later, I switched the light onto max ramp. Three minutes later there had been no step-down – still on max ramp – and the copper head of the light was noticeably warm.

Thank you, Paul, for all your work developing a workable solution to this design defect and making it available.

whatsthepoint
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Having built a few hundred personal desktop computers starting in the 90s the thermal paste choices now have never been greater but you should choose carefully for your flashlight ones that have good heat transfer properties and are not electrically conductive.

The best heat transfer is always metal to metal surfaces but metal has minute pores where air resides.Air will also be trapped between uneven surfaces and in tool marks.Air is a poor conductor of heat and needs to be replaced with the heat conductive thermal paste.Use only enough to replace the trapped air and not so much that it flows past the edges of the chips.A small dot in the center of the chip will spread evenly once pressure is applied.On a 7135 chip extremely little is needed.

Some pastes take a few days to cure while others are good to go upon application.

A very good non electrically conductive carbon based paste in the 2019 version of Arctic MX-4 and it's reasonably priced.An application can last for years.

If there is no surface contact between the chip and the heatsink themal paste alone may not be enough and use of copper foil to fill the gap may be needed.

On my PCs I carefully use Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut liquid metal that's 8X better than anything else but it's highly electrically conductive.

man of light
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Coaster wrote:
Mine arrived today. Thanks!
Valery wrote:
Thank you very much, man of light, this is a good job!
noboneshotdog wrote:
I got my light yesterday and my heat sink today. The heat sink works perfect and renders great sustained output. Thanks a lot M O L!
middle age man wrote:
The copper heatsink arrived yesterday… Thank you, Paul, for all your work developing a workable solution to this design defect and making it available.

Thanks for your feedback and input guys, nice to hear for me and helpful for others Thumbs Up

For all who expressed their interest, I updated the overview list in post #2. I will keep you up to date as soon as there are some news on availability. If there is enough interest I will realize a 3rd batch.

whatsthepoint wrote:
Having built a few hundred personal desktop computers …..
Thank you for your helpful input, some has already been discussed here, I mentioned the Arctic MX-4 in my post # 1 already right from the start, its a good one Thumbs Up

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noboneshotdog
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man of light wrote:
Coaster wrote:
Mine arrived today. Thanks!
Valery wrote:
Thank you very much, man of light, this is a good job!
noboneshotdog wrote:
I got my light yesterday and my heat sink today. The heat sink works perfect and renders great sustained output. Thanks a lot M O L!
middle age man wrote:
The copper heatsink arrived yesterday… Thank you, Paul, for all your work developing a workable solution to this design defect and making it available.

Thanks for your feedback and input guys, nice to hear for me and helpful for others Thumbs Up

For all who expressed their interest, I updated the overview list in post #2. I will keep you up to date as soon as there are some news on availability. If there is enough interest I will realize a 3rd batch.

whatsthepoint wrote:
Having built a few hundred personal desktop computers …..
Thank you for your helpful input, some has already been discussed here, I mentioned the Arctic MX-4 in my post # 1 already right from the start, its a good one Thumbs Up

Yes, Arctic MX-4 2019 version worked amazing on mine. Thumbs Up

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

Yantar
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Hi! Interested in 1, thank You.

JasonWW
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whatsthepoint wrote:
Use only enough to replace the trapped air and not so much that it flows past the edges of the chips. A small dot in the center of the chip will spread evenly once pressure is applied. On a 7135 chip extremely little is needed.

The problem here is that the chips are not at a uniform height. They vary due to the reflow process. In order to assure you have no air gaps, you may have to go a bit thicker to assure they all have contact. So add a dot, squish down then lift up and check the spread. If it’s good, then screw down. Every driver is different.

I like the idea of the dot being somewhat tall. The extra height should guarantee contact as opposed to spreading a thin layer over all the chips.

I see no issue if it spreads slightly past the edge of the chip.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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