Yes I thought exactly he same.
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@Barry0892 That would be a popular light. A throwy version of the Q8 Pro/Plus with a smooth reflector and XHP50.3 HI
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Changing the LED in the MT09R changes this flashlight a lot. My two friends did the same but on 4000K 90 CRI. In my opinion, 70 CRI is a better choice because it has more power and it is a very large and heavy flashlight. Great performance, but it’s big and heavy 
Do you mean that you connected the D4v2 driver to it and the old one is used as a stand? lol
When Pioneman worked with Simon, he had good controllers and spare parts. Later they changed the UI and stabilization. I have a few with 6V LEDs after that change and it’s a disaster. This behavior seems to be for every mode (I tested Turbo, High, Medium2). It does not make sense. WTF?!
I have an MF01 Mini, so same on SST20 4000K. The flashlight has very poor performance even after raising the limit. Do you think this can be improved somehow? Will another driver fit?
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No, I connected the gates of the 4 large FETs on the original driver to the gate on the Anduril driver, so that the “high power” current path was still the same, but it now had a low-powered linear current path for low modes, as well as desoldering everything else that’s not absolutely necessary.
To do that you need to connect 4 wires to the piggyback (batt+, batt-, led-, FET gate) as well as moving the switch over. Make sure to desolder the spring, as well as covering the piggyback with kapton tape to prevent shorts.
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Or maybe SFT40. Could just give us both options and see which does better.
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Was that the light that had intense driver heat and had a project to make an additional heatsink for the driver 7135s?
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It’s funny because I have a corrected version that came with this disc from the factory. The problem is that they didn’t use any paste or isolating sticker, so it was as if it didn’t exist.
Thanks for reminding about this. A friend of mine had the same thing.
I’ll try to figure something out.
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Swapped a 3000k SFT-40 in my TS11! Was too scared at first due to the complexity of the Mcpcb but dove right in.
And it’s beautiful. In comparison, my TD01C.
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Keep more attention to solder joint and add flux😉
Nice work!!
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And solder the wires before the PCB is screwed in. Once the PCB forms thermal contact with the head, getting clean joints takes a ton of heat. It is a lot easier if it is not touching yet.
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I will often slip a strip of cardboard between the MCPCB and the pill/head to slow the heat transfer enough to solder the wires to the MCPCB.
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Wooden toothpicks work well too, usually. Or thin screwdrivers or tweezers for SMD soldering.
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Removed XH-P 50.3 3V with unattractive beam from a WT D80v.2 and replaced it with an SFN40. Cheap battery provides ~6A, a Molicel P26A made it up to 9-10A and a 30Q was peaking over 12A and no angry blue.
Now this!
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I asked @Simon_Mao for an extension a while back and finally put it in to service.
I’ve been picking out discounted items from MtnElectronics for some time and installed this hi CRI XH-P50 6V, 3000K.
This could be my first foray into a host oven bake. At least for the extension. As far as I can tell with others, the color should almost match the C8+ color. Does anyone have ideas to share about that?
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I wasn’t even aware the extension fits the + version, good to know since I own one.
Alternatively silver version after getting rid of anodising…
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In talking with Simon, there isn’t a matching extension for the C8+. I almost bought the older host just to have it all matching but I’m fortunate enough to have too many hosts.
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I Hope this thread ain’t flashlight modding only, but I modded my bike today. It even has (modded) LED headlights (4000lm low beam, 4000lm high beam). I wonder which LEDs sit in there, seems to be single emitters for both. That’s a lot of light at 4500K. No doubt low CRI, but I did not measure yet ^^ Today it was not about those though, those have been on for over a year.
Since I’m not particularly tall (1,75m) and the KTM 690 2019+ is one of the tallest bikes around I struggled getting my feet on the ground. Lowered it by ~2-2.5cm today by replacing a part of the rear suspension. Now it looks like a Dachshund, but it’s a whole lot easier for me to get my feet on the ground in tricky situations.
S2+ shorty helped me to peek into tight spots where the HS10 on my head did not reach into.
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Damn, you’re the brave man. Aren’t you afraid the suspension lowering may trigger some unknown adverse effects?
Nah, this is a fairly well known kit made specifically for the bike. The manufacturer claims that as long as you lower the fork by ~20mm together with the kit on the rear spring, it won’t change the behavior of the suspension much. It gets a bit softer in the rear (in fact I’ll have to add some more tension to the spring), but no other adverse effects.
People who used it in various forums seem to agree.
Wouldn’t have done it otherwise. I’ll test and see how it behaves now. Worst case it’ll take me ~2 hours to get the bike back to stock - I only have to swap the lever back to the OG one.
Lovely bike you have there, if I were to get another it would be a KTM, always loved them had several moto x bikes.
A near death experience on a super motard scared me so much (it was literally life changing) I sold my bike the next week, when you have an experience like that it puts things into perspective , family, kids etc. I wasn’t hurt at all, but 2cm to the right and I’d have been dead or crippled for life, was entirely my fault trying to keep up with my mates on their superbikes…I forgot super motards don’t corner as well!
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