Thank you! I will do just that and hope for the best. Your beamshots look too good to be true.
For another build with a larger L70, would you still go with the 7060 W45VCA1 over the Yingding 7070?
Edit: for the build with the L70 I am hoping to get similar throw to a SFT40, but more lumen overall.
For maximum output i would use the larger die 7060 LED. I didn’t made peak output comparisons between them but at lower currents the 7060 performed way better than the 7070. Intensity of the big die 7060 was similar to the glass 5050 low CRI. Only thing on the 7070 that is imo better than the 7060 is tint, but that won’t matter on a build like this. 7060 tint is similar to the 6500K SFT40, so it’s not bad either.
Thank you! Sounds perfect for my intentions.
How hard would you recommend driving it? Is a 8A buck driver enough to out-throw an SFT40, or would it be better driven by a 12A linear, or even more?
I don’t know for sure but I’m running 12A on the 7070 using a shunt modified convoy linear driver and it seems like it can take more than that. The 7060 die seems to be slightly smaller than the 7070 die so 12A should be enough. The product description says 13A for the big die and 7A for the small die 7060 (the big die have twice the surface area of the small die). The 5050 peaks at around 1800 lumens, so we are talking about 3600 lumens of theoretical peak output for the big die (SFT40 peaks at 2600 lumens).
I had some spare parts laying arond so today I have modified Convoy S8 with Covex lens and SFT-12 driven at some 3.5A (don’t remember from where I salvaged the driver).
Soldered MCPCB to the pill to make it sit firmly
And resin glued the lens
Adjusted the pill depth to get the most focused beam
And as a result I got ultra focused narrow beam in a small flashlight without any spill which I like more than expected…
Sorry for the hopeless picture (I hate Samsung phone cameras). Trees at 45m. The beam is similar (in range and brightness) to NM1 with SMO but totally without any spill and round in shape… I really like it 
Does it turn blue due to high current?
No. And due to quite stable color temperature across the modes I would even dare to push it harder.
Edit : will do more pictures at my evening walk with Huawei P30 phone so the pictures should be better.
Since I don’t test the SFT-12 yet it is all at your own risk I would say 
Yes I’m totally aware of that but my curiosity takes it over. I got a few more so no worries in case of fatal overcurrent.
That looks like an upgrade over the SST-12. The ones i tested were crapping themselves at these currents.
Swapped an old Streamlight Protac 2L-X from the original XP-L to an Osram W2.
Much nicer beam and a good bit more throw, even if underdriven, and not perfectly centered.
Was incredibly easy to swap, the bezel wasn’t glued and the pcb retainer came off easily.
Pics coming later.
20.8kcd of intensity, beam has some tint shift because of the blue AR coating on the glass.
Upgraded a Mateminco FW3 from the stock forward clicky to a Convoy 16mm reverse clicky. Drop in replacement with the Covoy swith boot, might need a spacer if you’re reusing the stock one. But personally I prefer a brighter switch.
Reusing the stock translucent ring instead of the clear Convoy one might also lower the brightness a bit.
Stock switch:
Convoy switch:
Makes the light so much nicer to use.
This morning I was operating on Q8 PRO.
And no doubt this improved beam quality and focus/throw significantly. No (or tiny little) tint shift, much better defined Hotspot and maybe some lumens drop but that’s fine for me.
Hope to provide nightshots after evening walk.
Have a nice Sunday guys 
Convoy S2+ shorty
• SFT40 3000K
• DC-Fix on lens
• RGB switch with dc-fix on transparent ring under rubber
• Buck driver 3V 5A
Today I put together an SFT40 3000k D4Sv2 for a customer as well, the beam is the same as my 5000k D4Sv2 though it is nowhere near as intense. Using convoy-sourced emitters, the DUV was -0.0005 and a CRI of 96.7
I’m looking forward to seeing how the FFL505A perform, should be a lot more rosy and noticeably more intense.
I also swapped my TS10v2 to dedomed 519a 5700k, because the original emitters were burned and I got a refund. Was my first time putting together an aux PCB, surprisingly tricky to hand solder.
Used an MCPCB and aux board from Master_Nate (on Reddit), worked well though needed a lot of sanding of the edges to remove the manufacturing leftovers.
Also, did some more modding today and in the last few days.
Roughly 2 weeks ago, I swapped 4000k XHP70.3HI into my Haikelite MT09R to replace the incredibly high-CCT XHP70.2. Sorry not many pics of the operation, I was busy working on the light. @Texas_Ace you might enjoy this one
Few days ago I finally got around to fixing my Pioneman K75 (equivalent to a Convoy 3x21C with SFN43), the replacement driver for it wasn’t working so I decided to piggyback it with a spare D4v2 driver that I had. It’s a miracle all those wires were able to fit.
I also “restored” a Mateminco MT07 I bought used, fully disassembled it, washed it with soap and water and a brush, repasted it and updated it from Anduril1.
A previous owner swapped a mix of partially dedomed 519a (2700k outer, 5700k inner) into it, which gives it a gorgeous beam at 2650k and -0.0045 DUV. Surprisingly tricky to reassemble, compared to the Hanklights I’m used to, because of how short the emitter leads were.
It’s a shame Sofirn doesn’t make a smooth reflector for it, like they did with the BLF Q8, though they might be interchangeable.
Yes I thought exactly he same.
@Barry0892 That would be a popular light. A throwy version of the Q8 Pro/Plus with a smooth reflector and XHP50.3 HI
