I received one of these and after some testing, it appears the finish coat was put on this flashlight AFTER the threads were cut. I've been twisting the two halves of the body together with firm pressure to allow the threads to eat into the finish. I almost have it perfect where I can twist the body halves and it only sometimes flickers or switches modes. When I received the flashlight, nothing worked and a multimeter showed no continuity from touching the threads to any other place on the body, including the same threads.
Pretty poor manufacturing of this thing.
Now in terms of the output - I have 2.8A on high, 800mA on medium and 100mA on low. I haven't pulled the emitter out yet to check the thermal contact as I'm not sure how to do it on this one. Body feels pretty thin and lighter compared to the UF2100 I'd like to replace - less material to absorb heat. 17% lighter according to a scale.
Maybe use a plastic syringe and try dribbling a few drops of Greased Lightning to remove some of the anodizing on the threads? After dribbling it on, let it set for half an hour then rinse it off.
Nice compact XML 18650 torch with several tint options (my fav is the T6 3C). I'm not a big fan of smooth bodies though because they tend to be too slippery in the hand. If knurling were done, it could be a nice EDC.
It's not the tail cap/switch. There was no continuity on the threads. Connecting the battery - straight to the threads did nothing until I scratched away the finish on the threads for a few minutes, then causing it to occasionally flicker on until I kept removing material. A day later, with twisting the two bodies together with friction, it is almost as it should have been new in package - mostly functioning.
The smooth finish is a bit much on this thing, I agree. If I could get a UF2100 with an identical 3-mode driver and neutral tint, it'd be fine.
I just know I had issues until I just discovered Panasonic CGR18650CH batteries work every time without issues. The floody beam pattern and brightness is outstanding for such a small light.
The torch looks good and is just about as small as it can be given the battery type. Unfortunately the clicky on mine doesn't move. It seems to be stuck somehow in its inner position and was that way when I got it. The tailcap portion can be unscrewed and there is a spare clicky included but I dont get how I am supposed to open up the tailcap. It has two small holes, close to the battery connector, that must serve as a grip for some sort of tool to open it up with. I have tried holding a nail with pliers to unscrew the inner section of the tailcap but it sits firmly and will not come of unless using a specialized tool. How did Citycat intend for its users to change the clicky?
I emailed CN Quality Goods the same day it arrived but they have not answered yet three weeks later. CNQG charged me for a torch once and it didn't arrive. They never bothered to answer any of my emails then and they kept my money. Almost scam if you ask me.
Does anyone have an idea about how to open up the tailcap?
You have to use some nose pliers or tweezers into the two holes. Sometimes it can be very hard to un-screw (turn anti-clockwise), it may be glued but I doubt this.
I managed to open the tailcap and replace the clicky with a pair of nose pliers. Thank you how2!!
I learned that the main sections of the torch needs to be screwed tightly together for the torch to work. The problem is that the tailcap is screwed too deep by the manufacturer making the battery compartment too short to handle the length of standard 18650 batteries. Unfortunately the tailcap is also made so that the flexing brass battery connector protrudes slightly from the top surface of the tailcap when fully depressed. This means that the clicky is crushed inside the tailcap when you, with a little force, try to screw the torch together tightly enough for it to work. I will try to modify the tailcap so that the battery connector doesn't protrude when fully depressed. Otherwise it is likely that my last clicky will be destroyed once I let someone else use it.
WARNING! Before using you Citycat for the first time; uncrew the tailcap halfway before putting in a battery and screwing the main sections together. Once you have done this gently tighten the tailcap.
The torch is amazingly bright for its size and really delivers! It is floodier but equally bright as my Xtar D06 (XM-L) and nearly as bright as my Fenix TK35 but much much smaller! =D build quality is ok considering that making the body thicker would loose the point of this torch as a super bright mini 1x18650!
In just a minute the front portion gets too hot to hold which probably means good heat dissipation but I am concerned about what happens if you keep it on high until the battery runs out. Has anyone tried?
Also, has anyone measured what the battery drainage is? Would be nice to know! Same whith real lumens.
And, for dogs sake! Buy Redilast 3100mAh batteries! More than three times the runtime compared to my Surefire 3000mAh! My Xtar D06 runs on max for 35 minutes with the Surefire and 1h40min whith the Redilast. Off topic but; if you dive, buy the D06! I love the UI and build quality! Only drawback is that you must nscrew the body a quarter of a turn to avoid heavy battery drainage.
Welcome to BLF, Johan! Thanks for the mini-review and glad you were able to fix it yourself. I find this type of surgery is necessary on at least some of the budget lights I buy. By the way, which color YEE-Lic did you get? I am rather partial to the blue-grey.
Since battery fitment seems like it can be an issue, can I get a few recommendations on a high quality protected battery that can fit this torch well. It would be a bonus if it also could be found at CNQ.
Will the Panasonic 3100 protected be far too long? Its the only type of battery I have right now.
