Although I did order driver from Jaxman, I don’t like the mode spacing so I used FET + AMC driver (with Anduril) from Lexel. It has a 20mm driver at the moment which works but the tube will not screw all the way in since the driver won’t fit where it’s supposed to. It’s better if you use 17mm driver, it has a retaining ring for that size driver. There are a bunch of 17mm e switch drivers other than Jaxman’s that I know of like Qlite momentary or FET 1 from Mountain Electronics or FET AMC from Lexel here in BLF. Jaxman also did not send the switch with my order (not sure why since the description says they send the switch with the driver) but I did have an extra switch lying around that I used. Maybe you should make sure with Jaxman.
For the triple I tried with kaidomain and noctigon triple mcpcb and they’re a little bit too large. You can always trim them down using sandpaper or such to fit. The triple mcpcb from Jaxman (I took from E2l) fits perfectly. For the OP type any 16mm mcpcb should fit. The 18350 and 18500 tubes for the E1 are available from Jaxman. For the skilhunt H03 the 18350 tube for the A6 which I bought here a while ago fits perfectly. I just needed to put some thin o-rings for waterproofing.
Decided to put mix 3000, 4000 and 5000K LH351Ds 90CRI in my triple E1. Tint way better and rosier than my greenish 4000Ks by themselves. Might be my favorite triple mix so far in terms of output and tint. I’m getting ~2700 lumens turbo at turn on and ~2200 lumens @30 secs with FET+AMC driver, 22AWG wires and tail spring bypass using a full 30Q.
Great mod. I have also Lexel driver on the way, but constant power, no FET.
Any hints or clues on how to deal with this host? Was there anything challenging during your mod?
Its one of the easiest builds I’ve done. If you have the right sized driver and mcpcb it’s a breeze. The only challenge for my clumsy hands was getting the led wires through the hole of the host and mcpcb. It also gets a significant boost with a tail spring bypass (from 1800 to 2700 lumens if I remember correctly). So its worth the extra effort.
There are advantages to having a clip that spins all the way around the light though. I use my ZL H600 hands free by sliding it into my shirt or jacket between the buttons. Then you can orient the light where you need it without bringing the head strap everywhere.
I’ve also used it as a work light under a car by laying the light on its side and rotating the clip until the light rests on it. It worked really well in a tight space where a regular “worklight” would have been in my way.
Maybe a beefier clip would be good but a fixed clip rules out a few handy tricks.
Skilhunt H03 tube fits but does not make contact so I added some copper wire a la first gen E07/PL47 to make it work. Deanodizing the threads of the H03 tube should work since threads of E1 head are deanodized and have contact with the driver. Using a larger driver so that it sits higher on the E1 head could also work (might do this on my later E1 build to complement my shorty H03). Could be useful to slim down E1 or a H03/E1 kit. Not so pretty though. Jaxman E1 tube does not fit H03 head.
Works out of the box. I ran out of convoy S2s and I only have a shorty tube left but regular s2 tube and tailcap should also work. With the driver I use, the tailswitch is pretty useless and only for physical lockout. With the right firmware this could work as a proper double switch angle-light (weird ergonomics and ugly though). You can also just ignore the e-switch and put a clicky driver if you really really want a clicky headlamp. Or if anybody know of a low profile no switch tailcap that fits convoy s2 please do share. This could work for the Skilhunt H03 too although the o-rings are partly exposed.
The Jaxman E1 with Nichia LEDs is awesome. But why 3 LEDs for Nichia but only one for CREE XML2? Would that means the 3 LEDs version would drain the battery 3 times faster?
Xml2 is bigger than Nichia (5mm vs 3.5mm) and there is no compatible small optics for this leds and you can’t do 3x xml2.
And no, it doesn’t drain batteries faster. Both have the same driver that gives the same current in both configurations.
Does this imply that snap-in clip is unreliable in general? Did that already happen to any of you to have the flashlight poping out of the clip unexpectedly?
