Thanks. Problem was that the screws for the scales were loctited as hell as well.
Searched the web and fond something that worked for these types of pivots (domes stub not D-shaped) so will mention it here as it might help someone else.
The trick is to side load the blade to kind of jam the pivot, so apply some force on the blade while turning the pivot screw.
With the knife opened, I first tried to lay the blade flat on a table and apply some pressure on the handle downwards while turning the screw. That didn’t really work.
So then I tried with the cutting edge facing up and apply some downward force on the handle while turning the screw and that did it.
Then I turned to the scale screws and found the same problem, both sides kept on turning.
For those I applied the soldering Iron on the dome part while wiggling the screw part back and force and in about 20s they came loose.
So now I was able to tighten the pivot so no more blade play but the rattling is still there.
I’m at work right now so can’t take the knife apart but I’ll try to have a look at it this weekend.
I cannot for the life of me think of what could be rattling (and why does the rattling stops with the blade opened and locked)
Good to hear that you managed to open it. How does the pivot sit in the hole through the blade, is it maybe worn out so that the blade moves unless it is locked in place?
I didn’t get a change to disassemble the knife, I just got the screws to loosen up, I’ll try this weekend and see what can be.
It shouldn’t be worn out though as this is the first week I carried and used this knife so it’s brand new.
It started to happen yesterday after I was playing soccer with my son, it was clipped the side pocket of my shorts by my knee, so I guess something didn’t like all this swinging.
Anyway, hopefully I can figure it out this weekend.
It’s usually the stop pin what makes this sort of rattling noise. When you open the knife the blade tang pushes against it and keeps it in place (no rattling).
A little thread locker or glue at the ends of the stop pin will help.
Is it the light only or did you anodize your Slysz Bowie?
If my (sick at home atm) co-worker choses this one then I think bronze ano would look really well on it.
The question would only be, electric ano or flaming, the latter one is more fun to do
Well, I was not able to disassemble the Green Thorn Tabargan.
The studs from the axis lock are pretty much glued on, so I can’t remove them to disassemble the knife to get rid of the rattling.
Tried hair dryer, soldering iron, one screw driver on each side, clamping one side on a vice while trying to unscrew the other side, nothing worked.
At least the hardware is of good quality, I ended up wrecking 6 of my Wiha T6 bits and this sucker is still not coming off, the screws haven’t stripped.
Pretty bad not being able to disassemble it because of loctite, especially for a knife in this price point.
I guess I have no choice but to live with the rattling.
After removing the blade and bearing washers you could try to boil the handle/axis stud in hot water for ~30 mins.
Did you manage to remove the rest of the handle screws?
Yeah, the only screws I wasn’t able to undo were the axis lock lever screws.
I might try tomorrow removing everything I can and boil the rest, thanks for the suggestion.
Boiling it did the trick, I was able to remove the screws from the axis lock lever after that, so thanks again!
I took the knife apart, and I’m not sure if it’s the stop pin or the steel washers in between the Ti scales and the bearing washers that was rattling.
The steel washers fit loosely in the Ti cutout and the inner diameter is much wider that the pivot diameter, although I would thing that the pressure of the scales and blade would hold them in place.
In any case, I added a dab of thread locker on both the washers and the stop pin. Not rattling for now and hopefully will remain that way.
You did the right thing with the loctite.
When I made the carbon fiber scales for my SRM 910+ I’ve also put in a steel washer. I’ve found 3 matching ones in the workshop, sanded and polished them but I realised after a while that one of them had a slightly bigger inner diameter. It didn’t rattle but it felt incosistent because it was creating more than one track. I’ve changed it to one that fits perfectly, now everything’s fine.
I keeped an eye on the Boker Plus F3 II since quite a while, because imo it has the spirit of a nice looking,
perfect dimensioned EDC knife, that is produced with high a build quality and premium blade steel.
Not too big, not too small, compact and strong but not too heavy, - simply just right.
But honestly said, the previous sale prices always keeped me miles away from even only to think about it.
But thanks to a Bokers Summer Sale Action and 80 smartly paid Eurones, I’m pleasured that one of these long time wanted
and sometimes dreamed on sweet little blade models finally founds the right train to home.
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Overall Length: 18,2 cm ( 7.16” ), Blade Length: 7,6 cm ( 3.00” ), Handle Length: 10,6 cm ( 4.17” ), Blade Thickness: 4,0 mm ( 0.16” ),
Blade Material: CPM-S35VN, Handle Material: Titanium & G-10, Blade Style: Clip Point, Lock Type: Frame Lock, Finish: Stonewash,
Weight: 107,3 g ( 3.68 oz. ), Designer: Jesper Voxnaes
Just can say that since it’s out of the box, this knife is holding a 100 % on what it was supposed to be.
Hi Paul,
I’m tempted by the blue or the silver one but I’m not sure because I already have a couple of folders in the mail (Positron, Spydiechef etc.).
I like the overall design of the PITS (it might be UK legal?) and the clones don’t weight too much even with steel handle.
I’ve got the Positron and a Des Horn clone en-route. The PITS is a UK legal knife. I have a really cheap and nasty copy-ish of one but these look great. I might see if any retailers are willing to drop the price a little.
A fellow Russian knife nut managed to take apart his that way.
