Not sure what you mean when you say “keyed connector”. But I do not disagree with the other things you mentioned.
But those things you mentioned are completely different from having USB Charging.
The reoccuring theme in favor of USB Charging is to have it so people who do not know, or are unwilling to learn; the simple basic safe use & operation ‘rules’ of a high powered Li Ion light may be given/gifted one.
My proposal is… we are kidding ourselves if we think this is a good idea.
A keyed connector is a molded plastic or metal wire connector that is shaped so it only goes together one way.
/\ … OK, I understand. Thank you…. 
USB-C is great in that it can go up or down, but in our medical equipment, we still are seeing damaged/broken connectors. They are still relatively frail so moderate abuse, pulled/tripped on cabling, etc., can still inflict damage. Always great to have backup, and as long as the batteries are accessible and replaceable, it's good.
The good thing is the public, in general, is wayyy better educated on USB now then in the past because of cell phones.
I’m just wondering if there are any updates on the C01 Pro. Very interested in this.
I’m also curious about which ideas sound good to the decision-makers at Sofirn.
I remember watching a guy I knew use a hammer to force a keyed connector together incorrectly.
If you’re working on a computer and need a hammer…
If you have a foolproof solution, the world comes up with better fools.
+1
It would be nice if Sofirn could produce a flashlight in the style of the new GT4. The advantage over Lumintop is that it might be cheaper and could be offered as a host. Maybe not really as big but definitely with 4 XHP70.2 (or more 
) in a smooth reflector. I think Sofirn’s lights should have a real king in size and output that is currently missing. 
I’m with teacher.
If a USB charger MUST be on a light then glue that light together so the muggle can’t remove the cell.
Otherwise, gifting li-ion lights is much like passing out guns and ammo with no training or literature. I won’t give anyone a Li-ion light without knowing they can and do understand the potential dangers, just like I will not hand anyone a loaded gun. No idiot proofing required if we avoid placing dangerous tools in the hands of an idiot. In my own experience, idiots with dangerous items hurt others more than themselves. Like the guy who left li-ion cells charging in his apartment and burned down the entire complex while he was gone.
Muggle, with new li-ion flashlight: WOW! This thing is bright!
Gift giver: yep, best new technology there is, be sure to read the manual…
Muggle (unscrewing tail cap): Is this where the battery goes?
Gift giver: Yes, but please read up on those Li-ion cells before handling them, they CAN be Dangerous!
Muggle, slipping out 18650: Dang! This is a huge battery!
Muggle, reinserting cell: Goes in like this, right? (slips cell in backwards and screws on tailcap, hits switch…
Muggle: Hey, it doesn’t work! What gives?
I’ve seen this scenario time after time after time. Like it’s their destiny to pop the reverse protection diode the instant they get the light in their hands.
To compare our lights to cell phones you’d have to glue the tail cap on, glue the tube to the head, glue the bezel. Power supply is not user replaceable… Only then would the light have anything in common with a USB rechargeable cell phone.
Complacency is a crime most easily comprehended AFTER catastrophy.
A follow up, cell phone manufacturers have control over the Li-polymer pack inside their device. Flashlight manufacturers cannot control which Li-ion cell is inserted nor the direction.
Li-polymer is not Li-ion, control over the cell or pack is the typical issue. “todays li-ion cells are safer… yada yada yada…” how many makes of 18650 cells are out there, anyone know? Are there 3 muggles out there that are idiots and will use some inferior cell or is the number 3 million? Anyone know? Any of those guys live in YOUR apartment building? Your neighborhood? Any of those muggles watch YOUR kids while you’re at work?
I’ve repaired the lights that some seriously unsafe people have damaged, you ever see what someone that KNOWS our lights can still manage to do? I Have, many times. So now y’all know why I’m not for hire…
Well, I didn’t read that much into it. I think the idea wasn’t to keep the muggles dumb, but rather to keep from having to spend money on a charger. For those of us with many multiples of lights of various sizes, it might make a bit more sense to own a charger or two and handle the cells in whatever way we see fit. This is especially true if you own more lights than you own cells, so you move the cells around as needed, from one light to another. But a muggle may only have that one light that you gave them. If the light has a charger built in, nobody has to buy one. This doesn’t mean that you don’t teach the muggle how to not kill anybody or burn down the neighborhood, or both. But, built in charging is simply more convenient than a separate charger. They are separate issues that can be addressed separately. 
Alternatively, there are also some of us that like the convenience of built-in charging, even though we’re not muggles, and we know how to use a charger, and we own a charger or two already, and…
If the SP70 sells well, there are ideas to make a triple 70.2 version.
The single led version on the right. Change the machining of the head and you can get a triple version like on the left, plus have extra mass and deeper cooling fins to help control the heat. It’s still a long ways off, though.
.
It would be nice if Sofirn could produce SST-20 (4000K) high CRI95 version of SC31:
Let’s say: SC31S 
Some more wishes regarding such flashlight:
- keep USB charging (this flashlight is intended for muggles after all, right?)
- second special mode apart from strobe - bike mode (i.e. when on strobe, long press for bike mode)
- no stepless dimming / ramping option
- keeping the LED Indicator in recharge (Slowly flashing Blue while recharging and Continuous Blue when fully charged)
- adding some kind of battery status indicator, i.e. Smart Power Indicator like in SP33
Let me explain: I found SP32’s Eco mode (~3 Lm) most useful on daily (actually nightly ) basis which is: reading maps in the dark
Eco mode in SP32A V2 (~5 Lm) is just a little bit too bright for me personally
Additional thoughts (option to consider): single led or or triple led?
or
I really enjoy EDC tube form factor lights, I’d like a 21700 running BLF A6 (A7?) quad emitter with optics (mix of flood/throw) running anduril/narsil ramping UI clear anodizing but machine/off the lathe finish (something like the original FW3A concept) with a metal tail e-switch and included clip for EDC. Or alternatively a single XHP50.2/70.2 model of the same 21700 tube light with a boost driver and if needs be then no complicated UI for this one?
I love Titanium (especially colourful Ti) so also a tube light SST-40/Luxeon V, max amps, and Anduril UI, normal reflector, lighted tail with battery level indicator (not a big fan of side switch) higher retail cost Special light.
SP36 made for 7 emitter’s with optics like the FF E07 and Aux leds.
This is what I meant. But why not a quad XHP70.2? That would be more efficient and easily pass the 20.000 lumen mark. Ok, maybe not with only two 26650…
Trust me, the 20,000 lumens mark is not so easily surpassed nor, once acheived, maintained. 70.2’s have a way of frizzing out in such endeavors…
It’s easy to surpass 20 000 lumens with good cells, as proven with the MT09R, which only uses 3 XHP70.2s emitters.
Using 4X XHP70.2s is going to be easier, and even more efficient, making for a more reliable light.
Well, having built a triple 70.2 from scratch utilizing a 3.17 lb copper bar for the pill section and 2 30T cells I can tell you that in actuality it is NOT easy to surpass 20,000 lumens. And having had to replace 2 70.2’s due to lost dies, it’s also not easy to maintain this kind of power level. How long does the MT09R maintain absolute max? Nodoby’s had trouble with the emitters failing?
I should also say that the 70.2’s, pushed like that in a multi-emitter arrangement, make so much heat that the light is too hot to touch within about 15-20 seconds. Even with a massive chunk of copper. Cooling 4 extreme output 70.2’s will not be easily managed.
