Well, it’s truly a stupid design, too bad, everything else seemed great. 
Part of my annoyance is that for no extra design/production costs, this problem would not exist, just clear the copper pour around the screws and that’s it.
giorgoskok, the cometa caused issue without needing someone to open it up and mess with it. Some of em fried components as soon as they were turned on, right out of the box, or so I understand. This one shouldn’t be anything like that, but there is potential for a direct short.
The optic should help hold everything in position, don’t know about that 2 legged design though, seems some short cuts were made and together it adds up to a less than desirable end result.
The Aluminum Quad I sent that started this actually had the quad spacer threaded into the existing X5 head, but of course they didn’t have access to Dsche quad mcpcb’s so they had to make some, and that’s where things kind of went awry, someone missed some pretty crucial details in the layout department.
You mean where there will be tons of hand wringing and pearl clutching over “potential” to have bad things happen at sometime in the future if it works the first time you use it, AFTER you insulate the pill from the battery +?
The short on the pill is no joke, but like DB was saying above, taking things apart that work and putting them together has more potential for mishap than just leaving a working light alone…. Seeing one big negative like the pill short does make you look more critically at everything else the manufacturer does, but some name brand lights have high failure rates too. Sunwayman has had several models that just quit on users, and their customer service is negative responses to the consumers with these issues.
I do not like the positive ring on the quad being to the outside for the potential issues when modding this MCPCB, but I would just reflow the LED’s in a reverse polarity position if I was going to do anything with this MCPCB… More than likely this will stay stock for me as a comparison for my other lights…
Thanks Dale for the info .
I knew for the cometa issues , just thought patmurris’s answer was different from the question .
Edit : Now i understood the question … Sorry
Also if the positive was on the inner ring, all a short at the screw would do would make it a single mode light with no step down, it still wouldn’t be good but it wouldn’t be any where near as dangerous.
Does anybody know the exact CRI of the Nichias that are used for this light? I hope high CRI versions habe been used?
K.
I’m also waiting for that happy email
Just ordered on 20 May but it’s staying on “backorder” :cry:
Order: 14907772
No way of knowing for sure, but it’s probably this one:
http://www.nichia.co.jp/specification/products/led/NVSW219B-V1-R90-E.pdf
+1
Ordered mine today with extended tube can’t wait to get this light. Looks like it will definitely be my new EDC!!
What is the best 18350 battery for this light? I’ve heard of the Tensai/enercig but I can’t find it in the U.S. How about the Windyfire that Richard has on his sight? I’m wanting most lumens not necessarily longest runtime.
Take a look at the efest.
I always say that there is no need in making smth new if there is good decision already available (not sure it can be directly translated to english, in russian we say ‘inventing bycicle’). Most of this inventors are changing wheels to square ones or smth like that.
Some of you that have seen dsche’s triple boards know that there was no hole in the center, but half of bigger one near the edge of board. It was made to be interchangable with lux-rc light engines.
Now look at that:
- Wires are connected to board with special connectors. It safe little place on such board, but can also be very useful with dtp boards that are really hard to solder.
- There is no need in screwing board down to the host. Just use good thermal grease, try to make it thin and then pressure that does down from bezel and optics will be enought.
- Later lux-rc had made board unrotatable, so there is no problem like wires cutting or etc., just use right o-rings and they will slide while tir and glass stay on their place.
I undestand that this issues may cost extra money, but I also know how much moulds for new optics cost. Optics, that is not compatible with any other pcb and that have each tir with no edges from 3 sides (2 center sides are missing cause each tir dimention is too big for hole size, and outer one is blocked with bezel).
Re-inventing the wheel, that’s how we say it, and you’re exactly right.
when I saw this photo
this did not inspire confidence, it is unsafe for me
I have in mind the “Cometa” incident
not great - but i hope you see what you want ;)
if not request missing things!
This light may have some design flaws but will not be anywhere as dangerous as the cometa - for what i’ve read.
Shill out it’s a really nice light and it will likely work very well as is - with a 18350. The 18650 option might not be such a good idea since it opens the door to real abuse on the light.
Thanks M4X, appreciate that vid. 
After having seen the video (thanks M4D M4X!) I’m not really worried about the safety anymore. Unless you start taking it apart and reassemble it (which could easily damage the insulation) it should be safe enough.