No, mine steps down but not nowhere near moon after a while.
This is totally normal , it is designed to do so .
I know.
@Theodore, I have a theory:
These drivers do that when used with low voltage led triples, I think the driver detects low voltage, the protection can kick in on even a full battery. What battery did you use? The problem may disappear if you use a high drain battery.
I had it (but it was an X5/X6 driver) with a hotrodded S2+ triple 219C modded for 18500 cells, all resistances removed. It works fine on a high drain purple Efest 18500, but on a Sanyo 1700mAh as soon as high is hit the drop to moon happens.
It also happens in some of my lights when I try to measure the (10+ A) current with my clamp meter with a short copper loop instead of the tail. The light needs the resistance (or whatever) of the tail to stay on high setting.
Did anyone already check at what battery (rest) voltage this S45 shows low voltage protection?
Very nice, I was curious if these are >90 CRI LEDs, now I know. Thanks!
My Pocket Rocket is here, enjoy the presentation
nice presentation. Makes me wish I had bought one.
That’s good news! 
I rather enjoy my Nichia triples. They get nearly-perfect tint, a nice smooth beam, and as much output as a high-lumen Cree. I’ve got three of them so far, a Reylight BLF Ti (18350, FET+1), a CNQG brass beauty (18650, 1x7135+7x7135), and a Roche F6 (18650, FET only). Output ranges from 800 lm to 1800 lm depending on cell and driver type, and all three run custom code.
Don’t press the button hard enough to make it click. Tap it halfway like a camera shutter, then let go quickly.
It sounds like you’re doing a full “click, click” to change modes, and doing it slow enough to go backward into hidden modes instead of forward to the regular modes.
Thank you so much, maukka!
I got mine today. It works fine (no short), both MPCPB screws undamaged, all 4 Nichias intact, but I could only try it using a CR123A cell since my 18650 tube and 18350 IMR battery haven’t arrived yet. I tried to lego it with the BLF A6 I bought at the end of September 2015, but the threads don’t quite match and the continuity doesn’t seem to work. Without the tail switch, just using a mostly charged (4.1V at rest) 30Q 18650, I got 5.6 amps on turbo, but honestly that’s okay with me: 1.4 amps per LED should still put out 400 lumens each.
Are these things ever going to ship? The wait is killing me lol.
I got my Nichia flavor today.
Since i don’t have my efest 18350s handy right now i used the 18650 tube and switch from the BLF A6 i received two month ago. It worked right away with a 30Q. I haven’t used it much yet, just played a bit in the garden tonight. Beautiful tint. Powerful too. I had a look at the leds and board and it looked all good and clean.
It’s a really nice piece of ‘ledware’ and a great pocket performer for the price. A tad on the heavy side for my pockets but i’ll definitely carry one.
I’m just worried the front lens is very exposed and will likely suffer scratches or worse if not protected with a cap of some sort?
Usually these plastic TIR optics are cheap and easy to replace as they get worn, or they can be covered with a glass lens for protection. However, I don’t know where to get a replacement optic in this case. So, it’s a good thing it includes a glass lens. At least, I think it does… bakalakos’ pictures showed a glass lens.
Anyway, the glass is the protection. Are you asking where to get a holster or something?
Here’s mine. AW 800mAh 18350. S41 Nichia emitters. Pict taken with my S6 cell phone at 9:30pm. Not totally dark yet. Turbo mode.
I received what was supposed to be a Nichia S41, but it does not look like it is the Nichia. It looks like I received the XP-G2 instead.
Could anyone offer their thoughts before I contact BG?
The photo has the A01 Nichia on the left and the A41 on the right. (Why isn't my photo showing up in the body of my post?)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/142315049@N04/27288784682/in/dateposted-public/
Thanks for the input! - Hugh
I think the S41 Nichia is 5000K, so it will be more like the BLF 348 than the Astrolux A01 (4000 or 4500K). If you unscrew the bezel and look at the LED’s you should be able to tell whether they are Nichia or XP-G2. Also the box has a check box on it.
I opened mine, I’m not going to be using anymore it until I reflow the LED’s the other way around.
I’m thinking about a plastic cap similar to what is used on camera optics.
I’d be glad to have one on other lights too (S2 for instance…).