Astrolux S41 - presale ended

[hugh]

@brted

I think the S41 Nichia is 5000K

Ahh, I see. Thanks for the info and for the emitter gallery. Very helpful and now I know that I have the Nichia indeed. Had I received the paper manual as pictured on the BG website, I would have noticed the 5000k rating, but I didn’t look that up until after your post.

Thanks!

[ReManG]

Wow, I got my Nichia version today… It is better than I expected, the solder on the MCPCB for the LED wires is ok. The screws look good, I can even see some thermal compound under one leg of the optics where it oozed out.

The only gripes I have are the tiny lanyard holes and the clip location. The actual clip is pretty nice, but rides a bit funny with the tail on the head. A new convoy clip makes it a deep(ish) carry on the last groove of the tail cap.

UI is good (as always with TK’s code). The finish is better than the BLF A6/Astrolux S1 on mine…

Now, question of the day for me is: do I swap in two 219B V1 4000K, or go all in with 219C’s?

For now I will just leave it alone and have some fun with it…

[Ouchyfoot]

For now I will just leave it alone and have some fun with i

That’s why I’m hoping for a host version. I’d like to leave mine how it is, and have a host to do strange things with. Who knows what the possibilities are.

[maukka]

@brted

I think the S41 Nichia is 5000K, so it will be more like the BLF 348 than the Astrolux A01 (4000 or 4500K).

This is correct. I measured my S41 at 4700 K vs. 3960 K for the A01.

[ToyKeeper]

@ReManG

Now, question of the day for me is: do I swap in two 219B V1 4000K, or go all in with 219C’s?

I was tempted to replicate my wide-spectrum BST in smaller form with the S41, giving it four different tints of XP-G2. Might be nice to have a smaller wide-spectrum light.

If you’re changing all the emitters anyway, it might be a thing to consider.

(be warned though, it may not be easy to get the tint mixture right)

[Theodore41]

@djozz

@Theodore, I have a theory:
These drivers do that when used with low voltage led triples, I think the driver detects low voltage, the protection can kick in on even a full battery. What battery did you use? The problem may disappear if you use a high drain battery.

I had it (but it was an X5/X6 driver) with a hotrodded S2+ triple 219C modded for 18500 cells, all resistances removed. It works fine on a high drain purple Efest 18500, but on a Sanyo 1700mAh as soon as high is hit the drop to moon happens.

It also happens in some of my lights when I try to measure the (10+ A) current with my clamp meter with a short copper loop instead of the tail. The light needs the resistance (or whatever) of the tail to stay on high setting.

Did anyone already check at what battery (rest) voltage this S45 shows low voltage protection?

I use a Samsung 18650 30Q.

[djozz]

@Theodore41

@djozz

@Theodore, I have a theory:
These drivers do that when used with low voltage led triples, I think the driver detects low voltage, the protection can kick in on even a full battery. What battery did you use? The problem may disappear if you use a high drain battery.

I had it (but it was an X5/X6 driver) with a hotrodded S2+ triple 219C modded for 18500 cells, all resistances removed. It works fine on a high drain purple Efest 18500, but on a Sanyo 1700mAh as soon as high is hit the drop to moon happens.

It also happens in some of my lights when I try to measure the (10+ A) current with my clamp meter with a short copper loop instead of the tail. The light needs the resistance (or whatever) of the tail to stay on high setting.

Did anyone already check at what battery (rest) voltage this S45 shows low voltage protection?

I use a Samsung 18650 30Q.

Ah, that rules out any low voltage detection with full battery, something else is going on…

[giorgoskok]

Received mine today .
It’s unbelievable how small the light is …

[Theodore41]

@giorgoskok

Received mine today .
It’s unbelievable how small the light is …

…and how strong is the light that it is emerged from this.Especially when we put a 18650 battery.

[RobertB]

@Joat

I opened mine, I’m not going to be using anymore it until I reflow the LED’s the other way around.

Can’t you just flip the wires around instead of re-flowing the emitters?

[RobertB]

[quote=Sharpie]

[quote=RobertB

Can’t you just flip the wires around instead of re-flowing the emitters?

No, they are diodes. They only work one way around.[/quote]

Ah, thanks

[patmurris]

@ToyKeeper

I was tempted to replicate my wide-spectrum BST in smaller form with the S41, giving it four different tints of XP-G2. Might be nice to have a smaller wide-spectrum light.

I’m not familiar with the ‘wide spectrum’ approach using different led tints… but aren’t high CRI emitters exactly that - so no point in building a wide spectrum setup?

[Andybibbville]

Mine is in the mailbox can’t wait to get off work, going to be a long day!

[ToyKeeper]

@patmurris

I’m not familiar with the ‘wide spectrum’ approach using different led tints… but aren’t high CRI emitters exactly that - so no point in building a wide spectrum setup?

Nope. High CRI means the curve closely approximates the bell-like curve of a pure blackbody radiation source. Wide-spectrum is what happens when you take that curve and stretch it out sideways. It basically makes the edges brighter and the center dimmer, which produces artificially-vivid color rendering. It looks like what happens if you use a “vivid colors” filter on a photo, only in real life.

The main downside is that having different tints from different locations tends to produce rainbow-colored shadows. The edge of a shadow gets different tints at slightly different angles, so it ends up with several overlapping shadows of different color. But on a quad like this, that effect should be minimized compared to the Blackshadow Terminator I used.

[patmurris]

Thanks for the explanation TK.

[chooma]

I just got my S41 an hour ago.

I put in a Efest 18350 900mAH protected charged 1 time it read 3.9 when i put it in the light. It worked great.
I attatched the 18650 NCR18650B 3400mAH protected brand new fully charged and it did not turn on. I flipped the tube and tried it again and it worked. Same thing happened with the 18350.

I then fully charged a brand new Efest 18350 900mAH and put that cell in the light. It turns on but when i get to the highest or last half click it flickers off. After it flickers off i give it a half click and it goes to the last mode right before the last half click.
The same thing happens with the 18650.

It also flickers on and off when i tighten the tail cap when putting the battery in.

As im typing this i just put in a Fenix ARB-L2-2600 Protected and it does not flicker and turn off like it does with the NCR18560B cell.

I am not a modder and dont know alot about the internals of lights and i am new to flashlights.

Any idea of whats going on with my light?

Thank you

[chooma]

I just tried a BRC 18650 4800mAHUltra Fire and it works just fine.

[dilligan]

I don’t want to sound like an impatient turd, but I’m just curious if anyone knows about how long it will be before there is a coupon code? I’m having a hard time not jumping on this (even at the full price) and am wondering if I should hold off a bit longer. Any ideas?

[chooma]

I just tried a Xtar 16340 650mAH protected and it works just fine.

Sounds like i just have battery issues i guess.

Is it ok to use 16340 cells in this light?

[brted]

@dilligan

I don’t want to sound like an impatient turd, but I’m just curious if anyone knows about how long it will be before there is a coupon code? I’m having a hard time not jumping on this (even at the full price) and am wondering if I should hold off a bit longer. Any ideas?

Since it is out of stock, there is no reason not to wait. There will be a coupon or deal of the day on this eventually.