[Available again! - BLF special edition light] new Sofirn AAA twisty high CRI 5mm LED

Other than the initial torture test posted early on, has anybody put these through the ropes yet? I currently have four in a home emergency kit and one clipped on my hiking pack. Would be curious what their limits are…

There was an annouced test from gurdygurds but I guess it never happened.

Did some first post editing; removed the link to the black C01; added the link to the Sofirn C01S model; and added some additional magnet links to post #3.

Very happy with the tritium vials I ordered from Mixglo and from Banggood.
Also happy with the 5x3mm magnets I ordered from Banggood. The magnets I received from Fasttech were much weaker than those from Banggood (which I only discovered AFTER I had superglued them in…)

I did not do a real torture test, but after 24 hours in the freezer at –18 degrees Celcius the light worked happily. I did not notice any difference between a NiMH (IkeaLoop), alkaline primary, or Energizer L92 lithium primary. They all worked fine even when frozen. Also been EDC-ing the C01 in my pocket since January; the clip (the good one that is) holds up fine.

By the way, I dropped my C01s a lot, in the order of uncountable. Seriously. They all still work fine.
I also had an alkaline leak its contents in a C01 (during a run-down test), cleaned it with vinegar, and it was good to go again.

Personally, I am really happy with it.
One of my personal highlights of 2018.
True heir to Arc AAA and Fenix E01.
Collectively as a community you make great ideas turn into reality.
Thanks BLF!

I agree; I feel this has been a very successful project. A take on a classic light that came around quickly with a durable, functional final product (even if there were a few issues with potting / clips!!) and kept the essence of the lights it was based on.

My 5600k has lived on my keychain since the day I got it and hasn’t let me down, and every time I turn it on I’m surprised by the sheer quality and vibrancy of colours. Of course the anodisation has worn down but that just adds character :+1:

P.S if you feel the magnet isn’t strong enough the L92 cells are much lighter which in my use has made it hold better onto objects.

Ha Stef!
You should get one of the BLF-edition C01S lights, they should be available one of these days. I expect not as indestructable as the C01 (still very sturdy), but more output, low and high modes, bare aluminium without finish, and a nice BLF marking.

I posted this in the C01s forum as well.

I learned an interesting fact to that I haven’t seen mentioned yet in the discussions on the C01s or the original C01. I used rare earth 5mm x 3mm magnets in both sets of lights. They stick just fine to the side of my (smooth) computer case. I happened to bump one of the today and it fell off. No surprise. But when I went to stick it to the side of the case again, it wouldn’t stay. It turns out that for it to stay horizontal on the side of my case, the magnet must be at the twelve o’clock position, so the weight of the light is pressing the rest of the base against the case. If the magnet is at any other position, the weight is sufficient enough to pull the light away from the case, overcoming the power of the magnetic attraction. It’s always the little things.

Yeah. pretty much the same experience it has to be within about 30 degrees of twelve o’clock

Where did you find 2.5 mm x 5 mm magnets? I’ve only seen them in whole number increments, not fractional.

there are about 40 units left, Red C01 with 5600K yuji leds, anyone need it?

It does depend on the magnet though, some stick better than others. I coincidentally bought a batch (3x5mm) that makes the C01 easily stick in all positions.

As I mentioned earlier, not many are able to measure the strength of the magnetism of these magnets, so sellers get away with everything, so in good ol’ chinese tradition everything is indeed what they sell. In Europe we have supermagnete.de, not that more expensive than Fasttech or Banggood, that makes a point of actually selling what they claim, and I have never got bad magnets from them.

Do you plan to produce another batch of C01, maybe with another LED if the Yuji BC is not available anymore?

I guess Simon from Convoy sells them in his store in AliExpress!

I spotted that tip about using wax paper and resting metal on the top so that the magnet sets flush to the end — that’s a really good idea. Wish I’d seen it earlier. Mine sits maybe 0.25 mm below the surface, but the magnet still holds pretty strongly. It’ll only work with it on raw exposed metal (painted will work, but it slips) and it will naturally pivot to put the magnet at 12 o’clock.

The magnets feel very strong, and they’re difficult to separate. So I’m convinced they’re decent quality.

I tried to dissolve the super glue with acetone, but it’s not getting in behind the magnet… so it won’t come out. I expect I’d have to drill into it to break it, then pull the pieces out.

Thanks. I don’t know how much stronger they’ll be compared to the ones I already have. Can you adhere the light to metal with the magnet positioned at 6 o’clock?

Sofirn just posted a message on Facebook that the final 30 lights of the Original C01 (color red, 5600K) will be sold on Amazon.com for 6.50 USD.
—> Link

Amazon(dot)com means: NO EU.

If the magnet wasn’t a tight fit there’s no need to drill it, just heat the tube up… Cyanoacrylate releases/breaks down/softens/whatever at higher temperatures.
Depending on the grade it’s strength retention drops to 50% somewhere in the neighbourhood of 80-120*C. Couple hundred degrees celsius should drop it well below 20%. Sure there’s High Temp grades out there as well but I highly doubt you used such a glue.

Djozz, thanks for the pointer.
That bare aluminum look :heart_eyes:
I am going to dress up at least one 5mm-C01 head with a bare aluminum SST20-C01-BLF body :sunglasses:
Also great Sofirn adds a BLF marking to give credit to the origin of the design.

You could carefully (gloves, eye protection, outdoors…) give your C01 a bath in lye (drain cleaner / sodium hydroxide / etc) to strip off the anodizing for a bare-aluminum finish. Just apply some petroleum jelly or something to any areas where you don’t want it intruding (threads, in the reflector area, etc) and then just clean it off after the bath.

Yeah, only problem is that I have a tritium vial installed now. That would likely not survive the heat…

Thanks for the suggestion to go with lye for removing the anodization. Already wanted to try out that to remove the anodization in the tritium slot.