A stock X6 only does around 46k lux. If you dedome it around 85k lux (not my measurements, just what I have heard) and 135kcd with the upgraded driver and de-domed.
Tonight I'll take a picture of it shooting up into the sky. I know this doesn't show much but it is the best I can do. :(
Yes, but I'm sure the people who do this professionally do just as good if not better a job than selfbuilt.
A modified light is irrelvent here. I’m talking about a stock dedomed X6. It’s gonna get whipped by the TN31. I’d bet my K40 would beat it as well.
I am positive that is true, but why are mods irrelevant?
I found a place I can go to for some 320 yards beamshots. I'll try to go tonight but no promises.
Because a modded light isn’t what we are talking here.
A stock TN31 is going to whip most other factory production lights.
And please no auto exposures.
Manual setting and around 1 to .1.2 sec shutter ought to be just about perfect to what you see in person. I like setting my ISO to 400 and using a focal of 4.
Sadly I do not have a camera capable of doing that but I can adjust it so it resembles what I see.
If you don’t have manual exposure on your camera, then your really not going to be able to do much.
I will take a photo that acurately resembles what I see, you may go yell at me and tell me it isn’t accurate but I don’t really care. I know it is right so do what you want with it.
Here’s the X6 vs TN31 vs 7G5V2
X6
TN31
7G5V2
Rick,
Take another one of the TN31 please. I can tell it’s blurry comparing the tree in your yard to the photo of the X6.
Use the 2 sec timer feature I told you about.
And I checked those and they are 1.2 sec shutter speed. That’s just about perfect to what you see in person according to my Fuji. I would say yours is almost identical to mine.
I’m not taking another one and I used the timer on all of them but the X6.
That is why you should take 3 of each to pick out the better one.
the tn31 looks like it throws the furthest, but either way the beam of the collimator heads are useless in my opinion
I agree.
But again the TN31 is underscored due to the blurry image. No offense Rick, but my camera occasionally does the same thing even on 2 sec delay. That’s why I typically take 3 to 4 images of each and pick through the best one.
The crelant has a collimator head to achieve such throw. I’m not sure how the collimator head works, but I think you can adjust it so the beam is less narrow.
I have the crelant 7G5v2 which I use in single configuration since it has more than enough light for my needs that way, but I don’t have the collimator head which is an extra $30.
Okay here’s how to take a proper comparison wall shot:
If your camera can’t go down in exposure or shutter time enough then find a DARK SURFACE to help absorb the light to make it darker for the camera.
Make the photo as underexposed as possible (assuming your camera isn’t a dslr and won’t make it totally dark).
Now if it’s still to bright it differentiate intensities of hotspots, move the lights further away from the surface you are shining on.
Voila, there’s how to differentiate and no arguing!
But then again, sometimes it’s a bit too close to call and a light meter is needed.