nice u are like me then, i also prefer the group mode 5. I dont think u can program the mode memory tho. Could u post a pic how the WW look? curious about see that tint…
My exact problem, try 2 batteries and see if it works. the 4 batteries with tail cap loose and see what it does. I emailed Dale and he wants a video….
The loose tail cap doesn’t help, I emailed Dale yesterday but no answer yet
Terry, in my light I thought to do the same thing with the tail cap right when I got it , mine has been all apart and added spacers to the front part to give the batteries more room, I added a thin piece of cardboard between tail cap and contact board. Neither of these worked WITH FULLY CHARGED batteries, this morning without the cardboard and the spacers still in the light is working with the tail cap tight and the batteries sitting at 2 at 3.65v and 2 at 3.75v. I found earlier in this thread that this thing acts totally different with FULLY charged vs DISCHARGED batteries.
I have emailed Dale and did get a response within 1 full day which I will say that I am impressed that I got a response that quickly. What I am not impressed with is the fact that he wants a video of what it is doing so he can send parts for ME to repair the problem (I understand that this is the Chinese way of doing things). I am capable of doing most things to apply the fix but in all honesty it is not my responsibility as I bought a light to use not to screw around with.
I’ve recived my MT09R navy blue 3x XHP70.2 Neutral White.
I measured my light from 2m and I’ve got 71 kcd.
Tested on Sony’s VTC6 (there is no better cell for this light )
After 30s of using turbo light is warm, it is good, but after 60s it can’t be keep in hand.
So there is no such a think as termal protection.
Got my 35hi in NW. More of a CW tint like everyone else’s reporting. Took a little time to figure out the timing on changing the UI. Everything seems to be working as it should. Compared to my D4 copper Ti with xpl hi emitters, on a ceiling bounce test, It appears as bright with cells that were at 3.7V. I believe that with fully charged batteries, this thing should put out as advertised. My only gripe so far is the tint. Im using Sony VTCs.
So, with fully charged batteries, same test but with my Nocigon Meteor which is rated at 7500 lumen, the meteor is brighter. I would say the MT09R 35hi is about 5k observed. Don’t have equipment to verify these claims.
It doesnt seem to working on my xhp35 CW either as it gets very hot if i let it run before i feel i must turn it off because it feels way too hot… It def should throttle down to like 1500 lumens or so when it reaches near 55-60c to protect.
It’s just not working at all.
Understand there are a lot of problems that need to be addressed but having no thermal protection is a good thing. Flashaholics complain about thermal step down all the time. It doesn’t take a Rocket Scientist to figure out if it gets too hot lower the power.
For me it is not a problem but it would be good if the instruction contained such information.
For me the issue is that this is not a light that you can put down and leave on. I’m pretty sure I torched my batteries just from testing this sucker. I honestly think this thing is dangerous and even a potential fire hazard.
This is definitely an enthusiast flashlight and is not meant to be left on at high modes unattended. As an enthusiast, I prefer not having thermal protection than having very fast step downs that makes the turbo mode nearly useless, which is sadly the case with the majority of high lumen flashlights. However, a user programmable thermal protection like the Emisar would be nice though.
well yes but it is a very dumb idea to power this kind of light on and leave it unattended on turbo mode, its not meant for that stuff really… The manual even says the light gets very hot quickly.
Except that it is advertised as having thermal regulation. Mine hit 199.7 degrees in testing, that’s clearly unregulated.
Wellp, it’s like a car with a 500hp engine. You can get nice acceleration right off the line, but you can also get stoopit in a hurry and go sliding off a curve into a ditch.
Thermal stepdown should be a true thermal stepdown, not just via a timer, even user-selectable. Think unattended in a room vs walking outside in subzero temps.
Ideally, you want a temp sensor right on the mcpcb, right next to the LED. Then sense the actual temperature and use a decent PID algorithm to step down to a max temp. You don’t want a sudden drop in brightness, nor any oscillation between bright and dim, but set it like a hotplate or soldering-iron.
Unfortunately, that requires a special mcpcb, special driver, special UI/code, etc., so it’s only for a truly custom design.
And yeah, people endlessly grexing about stepdown being too much, too soon, a dealbreaker, “useless”, etc., I wouldn’t want the headaches associated with designing it in except as a failsafe to keep the light/batteries from going supernova.
I get it and I’m an enthusiest and I know how to handle a light like this. But when it’s sold as having thermal regulation and it in fact gets hot enough to cause burns then it’s a problem.
It’s more like a car with a 500 horsepower engine but no cooling system. Sure you can take it out for short runs but if you drive it more than a few minutes it will burn itself up.
I don’t get it. It’s advertised as having thermal regulation, but doesn’t have it? And they were going to ‘sneak’ that by? Maybe it has it but it’s just not working right?
I’m not sure either. Hopefully mine is an outlier and the others don’t get so hot.
I get that, and a conflict between safety spex and actual operation is indeed a problem.
But most lights are handheld, and if you feel your hand starting to cook, you lower the power, so even a light with no/defective thermal regulation could still be “safe”.
Hell, I left my S2+ tailstanding to light a room via ceiling bounce, and couldn’t even grab it long enough to turn it off like 5min later. Dumb move on my part.
Make it a designed-in air-cooled engine and we can agree. At least with a temp gauge, you can see it’s cooking itself to death and back off… or keep driving it hard and watch it melt internally.
I had a waterpump blow its seal and start leaking coolant. No gauge in the car, just the idiot-light. Feathered the throttle the rest of the way to work. Air-cooled it enough to get the light off, only barely starting to glow on uphill runs.
Afternoon, topped it off with water (held), and made the whole trip home the same way. Idiot-light never even went on.
Point being, even a completely unregulated light can still be used safely with a little care and common sense. If regulation is off or nonexistent, yeah, that’s a problem if it’s specced to have it and be operational, but it still doesn’t mean it’s a fire-hazard unless it’s misused/abused.
Space-heaters can be perfectly safe… just don’t put it next to nice flammable curtains.
Where did you see that it was advertised as having thermal regulation? Can you show me the post? From my memory, it hasn’t ever been advertised that way on this thread.
I’ve always been wondering whether this has temperature regulation and low voltage protection throughout the group buy. Seems we’ve confirmed it doesn’t have temperature regulation but I still want to know if it has low voltage protection. Not having thermal protection to me is kind of a plus since I use the flashlight in my hand for practical purposes. But I do hope it has low voltage protection although I never really run my flashlights until its dead though.