Just for reference my stock MF01 (about 9k lumens) makes 1,220 lux and MT09R NW makes 2,170 lux, which is about 80% brighter than the MF01. From your comparison, I think the NarsilM MF01 makes more than 12k lumens. So I’m really excited for the NarsilM upgrade on the MF01. Also MF01 has tighter beam and MT09R is floodier. Ceiling bounce method favors tighter beams over floodier beams so from your measurements, MT09R should be higher than 15k lumens.
How do you upgrade the battery carrier?
I got mine xhp-70.2 ver. I really like 4000K tint. Have neutral feelings about “mint green” colour.
But I’m sure I don’t like driver issues. It doesn’t work with fully charged batteries. In my opinion it’s definitely defective.
Got my 35 Hi today, finally!
First impressions:
- Good feeling in hand, one little fault in the anodisation
- Heavy, but still ok, feels like one hell of a light
- The larger of the two pins in the tailcap got lost on my second opening of the battery compartment. I could fit it back in, holds in place for now.
- Klarus IMR18GT batteries (protected) fit, but i had to move the o ring into the other groove at the end of the battery tube to get water protection.
- Reflectors are not completely ok manufacturing wise, the sharp edges where they overlap are a bit “imperfect” quality wise, dont know how to describe it better.
- NW is also CW for me. Mistake by Haikelite or are the NW ones just so “cool”? Dont want to know the real CW looks. Even more blueish?
- Powerwise…i dont have anything to measure the output here, but i have a 10000 lumen flooder based on 4 a bit more focused XHP50s…dont think the 35 hat more than 5000 lumen im comparison, but thats just my feeling, gonna clean it tomorrow internally, maybe that helps a bit. What do you think about the lumens (pics below)? Both pics shot with ISO400 and shutter 1/15.
The NW MT09R I got is pretty much the same coolness as the 219C on the 5000k MF01 and S42, which I think is too cool for me. Most of the other NW or even ones labeled 5000k on GB or BG are actually much warmer than 5000k, which may give people a wrong impression of what 5000k really is. For example the UT01 labeled as 5000k is probably more like 3700k-3900k. The Olight H2R Nova NW that alot of people complimented on was measured at 3810k by Maukka. My personal favorite NW CCT is 4000k-4500k. My 4000k version of the MT09R is my ideal Neutral White. No yellowish/greenish/pinkish tint.
Ok. I did another test in ramping mode at high. Fully charged mt09r xhp70.2. All the number are in fahrenheit.
Initial temp. 68.5 fahrenheit
1 min. 102.5 437 lux
2 min. 126. 380 lux
3 min. 147. 360 lux
4 min… 161. 203 lux
5 min. 162. 203 lux
6 min. 166. 203 lux
7 min. 169.5. 203 lux
As you can see the temp raise and lumen drop to 50% at 4 min and maintain 203 lux for the whole process…
203 lux means you’re at 7000 lumens assuming the initial 437 lux is from an output of 15000 lumens. I see no stabilisation in temperature at 7 minutes, and think temperature will further increase unless output is further reduced.
I think 7000 lumens is way to high for steady state output.
Well… yes… you are right… output drop to 50% or more after 3 minutes…
Dont look at the lumen number… it doesnt make sense… lux can translate to lumen at any given time. Just look at the lux for now.
Conclusion… so my light have step down and whatever to protect the leds.
Why are your numbers so different than your first run (when 115.5 was highest temp after 10min)? It appears temp regulation may have been working on your light then. This latest run shows it’s either not working or is completely ineffective. Temp regulation is supposed to kick in at 131F. By 4 min you’re well into the danger zone for Li-ion, and temps continue to rise. +4 deg between 5 and 6 min. +3.5 deg between 6 and 7 min. Already dangerous - where would things have been at 10min? 15min?
First test was in mode #5, and battery was 4 v… 2nd test was in ramping mode and fully charged…
2nd time, i only did 7 minutes… its getting hot…
>> Conclusion… so my light have step down and whatever to protect the leds.
I don’t think so. The amount of stepdown shown doesn’t appear to be enough to protect anything, and could be due to battery sag alone.
…and we have another that will not work with fully charged batteries….
I am using sony vtc6 button top from haikelite… i will test it tomorrow using sony vtc5a solder blop.
Or it could be thermal regulation doesnt work the same in mode 5 and ramping mode.
I’m not sure if this has been addressed already but when will the chargers start shipping out?
I find ordinary flattops making good contact despite those plastic thingies in battery tube. You don’t need button tops. (This also applies to my MT07S).
hm not sure, has there even been a pic posted of that charger yet except the only pic we got early that didnt show much ? I think they focus now working on the issues on the light so the charger isnt perhaps the top priority right now…
I find my MT09R tailcap hard to screw in it is so hard that it feels like you are going to break it, unlike my other Haikelite (MT03 and MT07) it feels like the o-ring is made of plastic not rubber ergo the screw in motion is not smooth and i also found the pattern on the head a little bit too sharp especially while screwing in the tail-cap and i had to hold the flashlight around the switch otherwise it hurts.
Like others also mention, the overlapping part of the reflector is bad, but anodizing is perfect in mine and the reflector is clean no dust no fingerprint.
hey
i felt the same with my tail cap too (not as smooth as MT03) . It felt like there was sand in the thread.
No sharp edge on my light and i really like the light design look.
It’s probably the friction between the rotating tailcap board and the tailcap. If you have the loose tailcap, then exert a pressure on the board, and then rotate it a little bit with your fingers. You will feel the sticking friction, same as when tightening the tailcap.