As another point of reference, a CSLNM1.TG in a C8+ with a 5A driver hit 224kcd (945m or so), tested at 5 and 10m.
So you lose 100m in exchange for double the lumens, and likely more reliable if used in hot weather.
edit: typo.
The PM1 is far more usable for 99% of things; the beam being fatter is just way more useful except for a candela shootout.
Thank you. Now searching is much easier.
Simon, new store looks great but i would add HOSTS to the FLASHLIGHTS section.
And maybe MCPCB and DRIVER in it’s own section.
Those are the most viewed items.
I would suggest coating lens on only one side. I have bunch of HI CRI emitters but all of them in Convoy hosts have higher DUV, more yellow /green than they are in other flashlights.
I have S2 reflector in custom host with only one side coated lens but the beam is beautifull with Nichia.
219B.
on the other hand having the same emitter in S2 with the same reflector gives more higher DUV beam.
Not really a deficit going to the larger die led. Like Obewan said, the 2mm2 emitter is more useful for everything but lux and throw. The smaller emitters beam is so narrow and the hotspot so small up close. The 2mm2 is much more useful in terms of side illumination and general usefulness.
DRIVER is already in its own section and that’s good, easier to search/navigate/compare.
I guess it’ll be great if MCPCB and LED have its own section, they’re very closely related components.
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What about arrangement like these categories/sections:
- FLASHLIGHT
- HOST
- DRIVER
- MCPCB & LED
- REFLECTOR & LENS
- other accessories …
- others
?
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.
I would love to see a quad Nichia E21A S2+ (with either the 2.8A Biscotti or 5A Biscotti copy driver).
Wait for me to finally enter my lab after few months...
I took the glass lens out and feel the same with LH351D 4000k. Not sure if that is just in my head or not. I will try this with some SST20 and Nichia219C when they arrive.
Maybe it’s even in my head, some shorting. Curiois what others can say about it.
AR coating effecting tint happens more often than not to varying degrees but i’m not sure what makes one manufacturer’s coating better/worse than another.
It’s not typically enough to make a bad LED good but it can certainly make a great LED just ‘good’ or an average LED not so good. In fact for some lights I have 219b sw45k I leave crappy AR lens in place because it’s already too pink anyways.
Same feeling : I prefer my S2+ built with LH351D 4000k with a lens without the AR coating than with it, it looks much greener on the later!
So i’m not (that much) crazy.
And why should you be? A feeling is a signal about something, and unless we are being energetically manipulated or under the effect of some @#$% drug (which involves interaction with unseen negative entities), better pay good attention to it. Also, comparing ourselves to others usually is bad, namely if it involves judgment.
I also see no point in anti-reflective coatings; they mess up with tint for nearly no gain in output. 
Good point!
As a mater of fact at this moment i’m soaking M21C lens in thinner...
PS ehat’s the fastest method to remove AR coating?
Great Simon!, This will be the best combinations High CRI M21C-U with Ramping :cowboy_hat_face:
Can't say if this is the fastest, but it was an easy search. Article: How to Remove Anti-Reflective Coating From Eyeglasses @ Sciencing
Plastic tools are common in the smartphone repair industry, and some can be handy to scrape. Here is an assorted set, for example:
Thx Barkuti. Found that method last night, tried this morning no luck. I soaked the lens in nitro thiner for 30min, acetone and glass cleaner and i couldn’t even leave a mark on the surface. Convoy AR coating is heluva tough.