Wow more throw than my modded S11 quad - very tempting Simon, you dog! 
might get one now
So I’ve got some interesting results… This is on an S11; my S12 arrived today but that’s later for modding. I think something’s gone a little haywire, but:
Battery used: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33040252492.html. I didn’t fully charge between everything, so the SST40 may be a little lower than on a 4.2V battery, but still fairly close.
XHP50.2 – S11 standard emitter/driver (I had removed the inductor to see under it, but have put it back on)
Mode 1: 42mA
Mode 2: 360mA
Mode 3: 1.67A (but wavers a lot)
Mode 4: 6.6A (this is the reading that I think is broken - 40W)
SST40 (5000K from FT03) w 6A Convoy driver (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33024197621.html)
Mode 1: 9mA
Mode 2: 177mA
Mode 3: 1.82A
Mode 4: 5.8A
So if I were to do %, it’s something like:
XHP50.2 stock S11 driver: 0.6, 5.5, 25.3, 100
SST40 6A driver: 0.2, 3.1, 31.4, 100
I’m going to assume that the last reading on the XHP50 driver was doubled somehow (maybe my DMM playing up), so taking it back to 3.3A would make it:
1.3, 10.9, 50.6, 100
Either way, a big difference from the 0.1–3–30–100 on the stock XHP50.2 S11…
(what am I doing wrong? 
)
I’m measuring these results with a Convoy S11 (XHP50.2 5000k, default 4-mode driver), tail current with clamp meter:
(using a nearly full charged ~4.10v Lii-50A 26650)
1: 0.07A
2: 0.37A
3: 1.48A
4: 5.8A <= I notice the output is a bit less bright than the Sofirn SP33 XHP50.2 on Turbo mode
The spring on the driver side of my S11 does not come factory spring-bypassed though (I wonder if they missed doing a factory spring-bypass on my unit; I haven’t tried to do spring-bypass on the unit myself… so that could explain my lower current readings)
Mine was spring bypassed from factory - I’ll have to try again with a fresh battery. I was using a Fluke 87, so thankfully not a cheap DMM
Not particularly worried, but just curious.
If you are reading at the tailcap it’s 6.6A x 4.2v = 28W (maybe a bit lower counting voltage sap). It would be 6v only if you were reading current after the driver i.e. at the LED.
Hey Simon have you tried to use a Flat White Osram CSLNM1.TG LED on your C8 or L2s? I found the reflectors sit to high for these super small LEDs and the focus is of. Any chance you would could make a reflector that sits lower to the MCPCB? . Without a gasket my L2 reflector doesn’t touch the MCPCB so its not low enough for these LEDs.
Actually it might be easier to make a thicker MCPCB one that is like 2.5-3mm thick. Have you come across this issue yourself?
You could make a sell a decent thrower from the L2 using a CSLNM1.TG.
Copper shims!
Yea i did make a shim, But it would be better to have a reflector that sits lower so the LED is straight on the shelf. It shouldn’t make a difference for other LEDs cause they will still sit higher on a gasket. It would vastly improve the outcome for the Osram LEDs.
Plus i cbf making spacers for every light so i took the LED out of C8, I already have to make a bunch of S2+ spacers.
Absolutely agree with you - was more of a tongue-in-cheek comment.
I’d love to make more flat white throwers, but just can’t be bothered with the effort.
Maybe a small lathe will be on the cards for my birthday this year lol. I been looking at second hand lathes, people still expect crazy money on Gumtree or they are to big for my space. Dump it at my girlfriends parents hahaha.
We get every Aussie to chip in lol.
Bloody hell. I mean not far up the road from me; I know it’s CNC but…. 
Maybe 3D printing a small ring to go between glass and reflector instead haha! A bit more economical 
There will be a compact ‘Soda’’ light multi cells/leds choise High CRI ?Please in Clear color!
I got the S12 in the mail!
Hopefully I will get my review ready this weekend
What are lumens on S12 on turbo and high mode?
I was just gonna suggest a fatter O-ring.
As far as I could understand, the reflector it's not able to get low enough to sit on a slimmer gasket and from what I've seen in most of my lights having this problem, that's usually because the reflector rests on a border in the head of the light, thus, pressing on the reflector harder won't get it any lower than some level and a slimmer gasket would just have some play, not putting any pressure on the MCPCB at all.
Oh. Okay, so just “shaving” the bottom of the reflector should do it. I’ve done that to some C8s before.
Just gotta be careful of shorting wires/pads to the LED.
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Ohhhh, wait. You mean the reflector is grabbed by the “lip” on the wide part, and the pcb would need to be raised instead because the reflector can’t go any lower? Ah, yeah, that’d be a problem. Short of shaving whatever the reflector’s resting on, that is.
Hey simon thanks for the fast reply.
The issue is the C8 and L2 reflectors have a lip that sits on the head of the light stopping the reflector from being close enough to the MCPCB to get proper focus with these smaller LEDs.
Yea this can be addressed by making the LED sit higher or maybe by shaving the sides of the reflector down. Raising the LED is much easier but still a pain.
Even with no gasket the reflector of the L2 is above the MCPCB by a 1-2mm gives these smaller LEDs a ring effect
Yesterday i have sanded the gasket of my L21A, which worked very well.
Until i noticed the upper side has a large shim as well, so i thought ‘that will block some light !’ And I sanded the upper side of the gasket as well.
Shouldn’t have done that, now i have got that ringy beam