Thanks, that’s a good point… I’m sure Thrunite won’t use an extremely cold (blue)CW tint. EDIT: NW option is also available now.
And can we expect the same? TN40 is XP-L HI, Catapult is XHP35 HI.
Probably have to wait for what the reviews say.
That’s right I read that but forgot. Same as with UT01 5000K
So all these lights are around 4000K (Not sure the CCT for the NW Catapult V6)
I don’t really care for the colder end of NW (5300K-5700K) I’ve always like right around 5000K (not too yellow) I’ve only recently begin to like the warmer end of NW (4000K) but now I’m wondering could that be too warm for a thrower light?
Although in my eyes trying to see distant objects in the colder beam tint is worse, because its “white wash” effect.
Ya, the c8 with the dedomed xpg2 has a tight beam. But once you shine it 100+ yards it starts to open up nicely. Putting a lot of light on target. I know your looking for a e switch light. But another option for a clicky light would be the convoy l2, with whatever emitter you want and fet driver. The new sst40 sliced would probably go great inside it. I have one I’m about to put a dedomed Xpl v6 1a. With a 6 am buck driver. I’m keeping mine in the 2 cell configuration. But I want to get another to have for 1 cell. Jacket pocket light or travel with. Hate to admit I’m slowing down until some new emitters or drivers etc or just a light I can’t turn down pops up. I have so many now I could never use them all. So now I’m a lot more picky then I use to be. Usually build what I want now. I use 10 at a time sometimes at the park to light it up.
In theory warmer tint is better for thrower.
Not just theory in my real world use it is. If you have any humidity or mist etc the cool white reflects back at you a lot more. Way more. If you have a environment with clear nights not a issue. The other thing is detail. It’s a lot easier to my eyes to make out things at distance with a warmer tint. The colors come out better. Also I’ve noticed that bugs are attracted to cool white lights more then neutral lights. But I still use both. I prefer neutral but I still use my cool white lights
I have to say I do like my high cri thrower. C8 with 90+ cri 5000k 219c. People said it would blow with a fet driver with spring bypasses. It works just fine. It just gets really hot after a few minutes. I usually keep laptop pulls in it. But I’ve ran 20 amp cells on turbo no problem. Has a nice beam it’s very similar to a xpg2 dome on in a c8
Just realized UT02 UI:
- ON\OFF with long press.
- Short presses will change modes
Not horrible but can’t say I’m a fan of that. Exact opposite is much better IMO.
But at least on and off are the same function.
Just revisited thread title - “700m+”. You do realize none of these will put any “useful” light anywhere near that distance? ANSI throw rating is for what, .25 lumen?
Maeexu M8 UI looks exactly to Emisar V1 UI (before they added memory).
Not how mine works. from off:
short click -> on low -> change modes
long click -> last mode used
from on, long click -> off
.
Man you have the worst luck I’ve seen with lights. L6 died, dx80 led went out. Thrunight led died. And you hadn’t even been buying lights except the last few months really. I’ve never seen someone have failures like that. Back to back with 3 different brands. Just crazy to me
Yes of course I realize that, the “700m+” in the title is referring only to mfg. specs. (as you can see by the mfg. specs. I posted for the 4 lights in the OP)
I don’t expect to actually see anything at 700+ meters (that’s about 2,300 feet - or nearly half a mile!)
But it’s those ratings I have to look at to find the lights that reach out farther than the ones that are rated 350-500m, does that make sense?
In other words I need to use the mfg. specs/ratings as a starting point to define the light as being categorized as “Thrower”
With a 700-750m light (rated mfg specs) in actual I’d expect to be able to see objects at a distance of about 100-200m, with bare eyes I’m not sure I could ID the difference between a person or animal at over 200m, even in broad daylight on a clear day. (It could be even less that that, I’ve never actually measured how far I can see)
For example, with the Thrunite TN20 (320 meters rated mfg specs) I cannot even see objects well out at my barn (125m)
I want a light in this size class (with side-switch) that I can to see out to the barn with, and maybe a bit beyond.
I do have other lights that can handle that distance or more no problem, but they’re either really huge (65mm+ head size) or they’re tail switched (C8)
I believe it is. At least for me it is, I call it “white wash” (wash-out effect). Maybe different for someone younger. :nerd_face:
It’s fine, I appreciate your time and recommendations here, whether you saw what I wrote in the OP or not. 
And sorry about your bad luck I’m reading about, but on the bright side I guess none of the next 30 lights you buy will be defective! 
I'm on a roll for sure but sometimes things just run in cycles and I have to learn to laugh about it if it happens. Most of my lights are all fine, but I did get an unlucky streak, no doubt about that. I will admit that the dx80 got under my skin for a little while, but I'm over it.
Ya I have to agree I’ve noticed at least in my life when bad things happen it comes in threes. One thing after another. But Ya no need to stress over it. Thrunights a good company and will take care of their customers. I’m really surprised imalent didn’t just do a exchange give you a new one and repair and resell the broken one if possible 300 dollar light should come with a no hassle warranty
Thanks! Even with the defects, I really love collecting all these cool lights. Years ago they would have been way too expensive to consider, so I'm real happy to let my collection grow, but I'm more picky now than I was a few months ago.
Thanks for clarifying, I copied that right from the review that you linked in your post.
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/44178/14
Actually it is pretty much the same as yours works, but apparently the reviewer didn’t mention the shortcut to low (or mode memory).
.
Sounds like the exact same UI as the UT01:
There are 2 ways to turn the light on:
1. Short click to lowest level.
or
2. Long press to memorized level.
Once on (from either method) short clicks for mode changes, long press to OFF.
.
I view the short click to ON as a shortcut to low only, since that’s all it does. The real ON is a long press to memory.
(I get confused with UI’s that turning on is something different than turning off) 
I’ve been looking into the SST40 for either my HD2010 or SupWildFire thrower projects, both are clicky hosts, single cell, same head size as Convoy L2. But I don’t know enough about the emitter, looks like it’s only made in CW, 6500K is lowest. And highest CRI is 70.
KD has them available: http://www.kaidomain.com/Search/SearchResult.sst-40
I’ve been reading djozz’s review here: Luminus SST-40, a N4 BA bin tested
And the data sheet from Luminus: http://www.luminus.com/products/Luminus_SST40W_Datasheet.pdf
Here’s what I understand about it but not entirely sure: (I’m no expert on this stuff)
- Same footprint and voltage as XM-L/XM-L2
- Lower VF than XM-L2 and XP-L HI (don’t need to drive as hard, use less current)
- Considerably higher output than XM-L2 and XP-L HI running at the same current.
Here’s what I don’t know:
- How does it compare to XP-L2?
- Is the best driver a regular FET/DD such as BLF A6 or MTN 17DDm?
- Is it hard to dedome (slice)?
- Dedoming can lower the CCT to NW?
Quote from djozz: “The dedomed tint is really good, less yellow than most dedomed Cree’s.”
Was also considering it for one of my smaller clicky hosts X7 or F13.
Nitecore P30.
Tailcap switch = ON/OFF (+momentary) and side switch to change mode (basic cycling UI). Last mode used is memorized = momentary turbo if it was the last mode used.
The ON/OFF switch is easy to find and if the tailcap was unscrewed to lock the flashlight, when screwed down to unlock it, the light will turn ON with the last mode used.
I don’t like : Side switch = hard to find. Cool white emitter.