Thanks for your recomendation, that does look like a good light. I do already have some tail switch throwers, and some that are waiting for mods. I agree a side switch is harder to find in the dark, so those are out for a “tactical” (bump in the night) critical situation/emergency light.
But this is not for that purpose, for normal use I find the side switch / e-switch far more convenient and ergonomic to use, especially for mode changing. It will never be as quick as locating a tail switch for initial turn on, but there are some tricks to help the ability to quickly locate a side switch in the dark.
If your barn has electricity, you could rig a remote control from your house and put as many floodlights around the barn to be able to light up whatever is near it from the safe distance of your home…
Like this one that has 200 mts range… $15 free shipping
I did not have the first version in my hands so I have no comparison. I was surprised by the bad feedback about the switch after I got my flashlight. Works perfectly. I have a comparison to other flashlights and in my opinion it works better than in TC20 and Q8.
For the most part the barn distance was used as an example for the flashlight performance in general, although sometimes I’d want to beam out to it, I also want to beam out all around the adjourning fields, treelines etc., which the fixed floodlights wouldn’t do.
The barn does have electric however since the wiring is ran all the way from the house and is older we keep the circuit off at the house panel, and only turn it on when needed on rare occasion.
Thanks for the link on the remote, I have several of those (short range version) indoors on various lamps, didn’t know they made a long range one, that’s pretty cool!
The UT02 switch has a little tiny metal cup that is taped to the top of the switch pcb board. Sometimes that cup flattens out, and it will not make contact. Sometimes the tape fails to hold the metal cup in place and you loose switch contact. Or you mod like 15 of these UT02’s like I have and lose the tiny little metal cup. :person_facepalming:
Then you replace the stock UT02 switch with Old reliable…plunger type momentary e-switch.
Working on getting some Lighted Plunger Type e-switches for replacements. I love the UT02 for modding, specially when they can be had for like $30.00! I sell a lot of modded UT02 Torches.
That is an awesome mod, thanks for posting that KawiBoy Would you happen to know if the plunger style switch from an L6 would fit as I have a spare one of those?
The switch pocket measures 11.4mm in diameter in my UT02 and from memory the L6 switch pcb measures 12mm and has the anti rotate knob that’s in the UT02 pocket, I think, so you should be able to remove .600mm off the diameter to fit, dunno never tried it, it’s worht the shot, never had a spare L6 switch to try out. I like the notion, I think the L6 plunger is a little taller (box type plunger) then the normal stamped metal cover momentary switch type plunger.
Regardless you would need to purchase/rob/mod the right size switch boot, because of going from the diaphragm type low profile switch of the UT02 :confounded: to a (slightly taller) plunger type switch, savvy?
Actually, this kind of setup is precisely meant for “tactical” use.
You’re probably thinking of clicking it on then flicking through the modes with the side-switch.
What you’re supposed to do is select the mode you want (eg, “turbo”), turn it off, then use momentary-on to flash’n’dash, else click it full-on then off. “Set it and forget it.”
Zero chance of accidentally changing modes with a scratchy tailswitch or not delaying enough between on/off/on cycles.
In practice, the side-switch would only be used to change modes, and be used much more infrequently than the tailswitch, especially if a forward-clicky (momentary-on).
My statement was referring to a side switch ONLY light, not a dual switch like the Nitecore:
“I agree a side switch is harder to find in the dark, so those are out for a ”tactical” (bump in the night) critical situation/emergency light”
However…
I guess it might work for some people, but “what you’re supposed to do” just doesn’t work for me for a “tactical” light. (bump in the night / SHTF light)
To me “Set it and forget it” is not tactical because I’ll “Forget to set it” :person_facepalming:
I have quite a few dual switch lights with mode memory, and of course I can “set” them to turn on at high with the tail switch via last mode used, but to me those aren’t tactical. IMO a tactical light should start at a very bright level regardless of what mode you used last. (meaning NO memory on tail switch)
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There have been a few dual switch lights with forward tail clicky that work this way, I have two: UltraFire C20 and SmallSun ZY-T13 (both long discontinued)
Unfortunately most dual switch “Tactical” lights today have mode memory on the tail switch, (like the P30) so IMO those aren’t really tactical.
A good example of a well thought out truly tactical UI are the ones used in the Klarus XT11GT or Acebeam L16 / L30.
The Acebeam L-series UI creates two flashlights in one: a single-mode forward tail switch light with no memory and disabled side switch, and a full-featured side switch light with shortcuts and memory. The Klarus has a user selectable “Advanced Tactical Setting” with instant Turbo or Strobe at the tail and disabled side switch.
I could go on and on about this, but to avoid further derailment I’ll stop here!
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I’m now considering a new entrant to this category (although a lower mfg. rating for throw range)
The Manker U22
It’s in the size class of the DS1, slightly longer, but uses 21700…
Its appearance and shape is a scaled-down version of the UT02
Features:
Emitter: CREE XHP35 HI LED (NW option avail.)
Maximum output: 1500 lumens
With Type-C USB Charging function
Power by 1x 21700 battery
Maximum beam intensity: 65000cd
Maximum beam distance: 509meters
Dimensions: 140mm (length) x 51mm (head)
Can’t say I love the UI, but all things considered I could probably live with it.
TBH I think the 21700 tube size will be nicer than the 26650, I’ve always felt the 32-33mm tubes were too thick, but live with it for the capacity of 26650. This certainly has a more balanced looking shape than the D1S, it’s a great looking light, a thin SS bezel would have been icing on the cake. I don’t have any Manker lights but I’ve read a few claims that they’re well built and reliable.
Cost of the U22 is $56 (including a battery) which puts it at about $46 in comparison to the others that don’t include a battery (considering that a good 21700 is around $10) It seems to check all my boxes except the “rated” throw range, although the rated max lumem output is slightly higher than the UT02. All things considered I’m wondering now if this will have enough range to satisfy my needs.
U22 is really close to my dream light, except for that pesky throw.
I’m waiting for reviews, hope they clear things up. I suggest that you do the same.